I posted most of the info into a webpage on my raceher site..
http://www.raceher.com/reviews/

Lemme know here what you think..

I will get the others up here in a few as I am working on them.

 

paper filter... better? wtf?

how come you didn't count the Full AMSOIL Fluids with MTI Air Lid and K&N Air Filter #1? you produced the best numbers out of all the other tries.... guess you have a reasonable explination because of that loop thing, lol

now we need to do one w/ different lids, lol

 

yeah, those numbers were not repeatable... And they were only done that once after I took the sensors off to put them on the MTI lid.. That did tell me that if I were to use the timing tricker, I am pretty sure that is what I would be seeing.

 

Interesting.....

 

you really don't want to know what I think so i'll keep it too myself!

 

I would have liked to see the Holley powershot up there too.

Anyhow, thanks for taking the time, it proved very interesting.

 

this is a public forum and what better place to voice opinions..

feel free..

I dont mind anyone being a critic.. if anything it will help me do another test later addressing possibilities that people have pointed out..

as it stands now though... I will be running my paper filter and selling my others..

\I know.. but after reading about them and whatnot.. it seems that they are essentially the same as a K&N with a different color scheme..


I will also state that I did not find any fitment issue with any of the air filters I installed... they all went on snug and fit right in their place.

 

Ignoring the result that was "open loop", the difference between the highest and lowest results was only 5%. This is approaching the repeatability error of the dyno and car itself. To draw conclusions, you really need more dyno runs for each configuration,

There does appear to be a trend with the MTI lid, but as far as the filters are concerned, I see no repeatable difference.

The real benifit of a K&N filter is the fact that when dirty, it still flows good. A dirty paper filter doesn't flow worth a damn. Plus, the K&N is reusable, and will eventually pay for itself.

Good results, thanks for posting them!

 

well it just sounds like another one of those things that get started like our cars need back pressure.I just think maybe the dyno needs to be checked not the filter.But thats only imho.

 

well.. seeing as how the pulls were done back to back and still pull similar numbers like 312 and 312.. within 1 minute.. then the amsoil went in and did the same.. back to back.. then the paper filter.. and it made more.. the temp guiage (and we all know it is not exact) was at 210.. but thats expected when you pull about 20 dyno passes.. I can understand variances in dyno runs but my car has been on this one unit for a while that day and it did some back to back identical runs.. sure some make you wonder.. and those I attribute to the computer because on one run with the K&N on stock air box it made liek 299... I was doing 3 runs at one point, then the numbers started repeating themselves to a point where I was satisfied. So I started doing 2 runs unless it was just a bit too freaky.. I was expecting the K&N to beat the stock one at least.. but perhaps that isnt always the case.. point made above that when dirty the K&N will out flow.. Fine, I can buy into that with ya.. but what I wanted to know for myself and whoever liked to read the info was what difference was there.. STOCK filter was last... car wasnt cooling down.. it made its run and made more power.. that was enough for me to be convinced..

In any case, I will use the paper filters and just run a NEW one more often.. say about every 15K-20K miles.. I live in Texas and after 9K miles my filter doesnt look bad at all.. But then again, I didnt cut my airbox either.. Everything is as it was from the factory.. except that now I have an MTI lid.. thats it.. and I did want the whisper carbon fiber look lid but I got the MTI from someone for a deal and it too has the carbon look..

 

umm.. I'm confused, why woudn't the computer go to open loop at WOT?

 

Thanks for the data PsychoC, goes along with my thoughts on the filters. The stock has enough surface area to not be restrictive like many preivous years of various intakes. I am running a paper filter and will just change it often like you stated. I'd rather toss it and put in a new one instead of the hassle of cleaning it and trying to be cheaper in the long run. NOT worth the effort to me. Thanks, Later>>>>>>>

 

You got me... I dont know... Anyone have an explaination?

What I found interesting was on the odd runs, there were like 2 of them were the car made a low number, there was some detonation and smoke from the tail pipes.. and my car never blows smoke.. But they tell me it was because of the heat since we were running the car over and over.. with almost no rest..

Then there was that single high run.. It was almost picture perfect since my A/F was at an almost constant 13... I was stoked! But then the number wasnt repeatable.. I was thinking that 10-13 RWHP was a bit much to expect from a lid... and I had found earlier that the filters were not putting down better numbers than the stock..

anyways, if anyone has any idea on this one, please do post..

Also, what does the "timing tricker" do? It advances the timing is what I understand, but what is the computer thinking?
Perhaps that is what happened on this run?? (I Know I didnt add anything to the sensor, but the sensors were unplugged then moved and plugged back in.. and you all know electronics.. they have a mind of their own!

 

Hey PCabbage, have you noticed the M6 feeling any different with the new fluids?

 

Good on you Cabbage ... someone finally did a down and dirty comparo.

Looks like the MTI lid worked.

Have a good one

LWM