what do you think I would get with all the common bolt-ons and easy stuff then? HP wise that is. This is what ive learned from what you guys have told me: if i get heads and cam that need alot of air then go 90/90 FAST but if not go LS6. Is that right?

 

Right, stay LS6 unless you go with more displacement or a pretty stout H/C setup. The FAST 90/90 may make more power than the LS6 on a mild H/C setup, but the cost isn't worth the minimal gain.

All the common bolt-ons... Long tube headers, Y-pipe and catback, lid, ported throttle body, LS6 intake, and an underdrive pulley is good for roughly another 35-40RWHP over stock. Don't bother with the small stuff like a FTRA or SSRA, smooth bellows, or higher flowing MAF sensor.

 

^ yeah.. just w/ LT's a lid and a P+P'd TB I was pushing 390 FWTQ and 360 FWHP.

I've since deleted the cats, added an LS6 intake and a cooler T-stat (Cause it's HOT here).. I should be just shy of 400 FWHP if not exactly, needs a retune too.. My original set up w/ the LT's, lid and P+P'd TB ran 336/346 RWHP/TQ

 

Yeah don't mess with the SSRA if all you want is dyno numbers. It does nothing at a stand still.
If you actually want more hp going down the road then get one. I did some testing of the SSRA at the track (ran 8 passes, 2 closed 2 open 2 closed 2 open) and in a 1/4 mile pass it's worth 1 mph and 1 tenth of a second. That's 10 hp.

 

You had your motor out to test for these flywheel hp numbers???

 

FWHP = front wheel horsepower

BHP = brake horsepower, which is measured at the flywheel.

 

^ sorry.. FWHP in my book is FLYWHEEL HP.

I didn't know front wheel drive cars HAD HP measurement... ... Nm or InLbs...

And no.. I did some rudimentary math, 15% drive train loss to get those #'s..

*hides*

 

Yep, a lot of people think that, but it's wrong.

 

So...It seems you don't know what you're looking for...You don't plan on a cam or heads, yet you're looking at a Fast 90mm intake and getting 500hp...

Just buy some longtubes, catback, and a lid, it'll make you happy...

 

Quite likely. That'll get you somewhere near 350rwhp. With a decent launch, you'll run high 12's in the quarter on street tires, with a trap speed of 110 or more.

Oh, and ditch the Flowmaster. It flows worse than the stock catback! You really can't go wrong with Magnaflow, but if you want the best and are willing to pay for it, Borla and Corsa are the way to go.

If you still find that much power to be inadequate, you can do the other basic mods too -- underdrive pulleys, gears, torque converter, cutout. Give the free ram air mod a try too. It won't increase your numbers on a dyno, but it will increase power at speed, and should help your highway fuel economy a little too.

If you don't mind digging into the engine a little, another good trick is to upgrade your valve springs. The stock ones float a little at high RPMs, causing the power to drop off a bit early (see my dyno graph, linked in my sig). As long as you're in there, a cam upgrade is worth another 40-50hp.

Finally, make sure you get your car tuned. A mail-order tune is easy, fairly accurate, and a fraction of the cost of a dyno tune.

 

okay I got everything straight now...but whats a lid?

 

You replace this:



With something like this:



LS1 101 - probably the first mod anyone should make