here are some tips that i figured out while installing my headers. all i have to do is install the new plugs/wires and it will be ready to fire. so don't ask how they sound...i don't know yet

everything went extremely smooth (sofar) and i was all by myself, laying in my driveway.

the only "notching" i had to do was to cut a small 1/8th inch piece of alluminum off the side of the block. it was a small piece that sticks out and is left over from the casting of the block. it was in the way on the driver side, and wouldn't allow the header to slide in. it's possible you could move the engine by unbolting some of the mounts (trans or motor) but since it's aluminum a small hacksaw and 5 minutes and it was cut off. the header slid in without a hitch after that.
some of the clearances with the Kmember look a bit close, but since i havn't started it yet, i dont' know if it's gonna hit. i have poly motor mounts and the engine barely moves when reved so i'm not too worried, on stock bushings it may be a problem.

tips:
get the car HIGH, i had to use jack stands on the highest notch, sitting on top of 6" concrete blocks, and resting on the front crossmember to get the car high enough.

remove the coil packs (pain) but you can reach all plugs and all the header bolts easily from the top.

have a 1/4" drive socket with both regualar and deep sockets, with extensions to remove the header bolts (after breaking them loose with a 3/8ths socket). the small handle makes it cake

don't be afraid to LAY across your engine...you'll need to in order to get position on some bolts.

when removing plug wires, don't pull on the wire themselves...they pull out of the boot with the slightest pull, luckily i had replacements

cover all the sharp edges in the path of the headers with 3-4 layers of masking/duct tape to prevent scraping. specially the Kmember and the motor mounts, and the little piece you cut off.

that's all i can think of, i'm gonna be doing a write up, step by step tonite hopefully, with some pics.

so far all i have left to do is put plugs/wires in, reinstall the coil packs and bolt on the Ypipe and catback and i'm done. by myself and only 8 hours. would have been less but took me 3 separate attempts to get the car high enough

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm looking forward to the full write-up.

 

One thing that really helped me was to make studs for the exhaust manifolds.I had a heck of time getting the headers lined up with the stock header bolts.Now arp makes exhuast studs for our car.I would buy one of those and likely will replace my homemade stud kit with arp ones in near future.

 

post the write up once you get it....definately looking forward to it as I am purchasing some (before the 11th to get the discount). That was pretty fast for by yourself. congrats!


BTW, I think 80TA has the longest sig on the board (I counted 15 lines) DAMN

 

what are the studs for??

to align the headers i just slid them in most of the way, either positioned them so they would stay there or placed something under it to hold them up. then i go in the engine bay from the top and grabbed them....and just wiggled a little bit.

put one header bolt iin place in the middle a few turns to hold it. then i installed the front bolt with the gasket in place, again threaded just enough to hold it up. then removed the first one and moved the gasket into place and threaded the rest of the bolts.

took about 5 minutes to get all bolts started.

 

hot damn....headers are in, plugs and wires are in, and i fired it up....


BY MYSELF in just under 10 hours....now all i need to do is install the Ypipe and catback!!!

 

Is there no welding required?! That is all that turned me off of headers, I wanted to do the work myself, less hassle and cheaper. If there's no welding required does that also apply to the SS exhuast?

 

Why

Lol, good job man...headers are a bitch on these cars, mad props for you doin it by yourself.

 

99blackSS

it is entirely possible to install headers without welding.

the flowtechs have "flared" type collectors with a 3 bolt flange so no welding there, and the Ypipe comes with 2.75" section welded on the end to mate perfectly with the stock Ipipe.

everything is pretty much bolt in...welding is optional...and if you do decide to do it, a shop would probably only charge an hour or so to do the needed work.

 

Awesome, sounds like it will be my next mod. THANKS

 

still needs some editing (drinking beer while typing bad!) but here is the step by step installation:

linky

it was SO much easier than i was anticipating....