Guys, what procedure do you think I should follow? I'm taking my stock Z28 in for a baseline...then I'm going to install an FIPK on the spot. Should I take the car around the block to let it adjust to the FIPK? Should I swap parts on the dyno and make a pull immediately after installing the FIPK? What's the fairest way to do this?

 

The fairest, most realistic way would be to make all pulls with the hood closed. That would show what the FPIK makes in the real world.

 

Hardly ... since it isn't even less realistic to think you go WOT sitting still ... the Camaro air intake sysem is a motion driven system.

The only legitmate way is dyno the same way. And the most realistic way to get a dyno is to do it with the hood open and fan on - since you can't drive air into the system via motion ...

 

Yep I drive around all of the time with my hood open
I said REALISTIC. Put the fan in front of the car and close the hood to simulate driving. A lot closer simulation than having the hood open.

 

Yeah, I was thinking about trying to close the hood...but I'm not sure how far I can close it with the necessary connections to the car in place.

Should I drive the car around for a bit after putting the FIPK on? Or, should I just leave the car strapped down and be quick about it?

If I dyno with the hood open under both conditions, that's fair...isn't it?

Any special requests?

 

The only problem with that is the fan will not blow hard enough to simulate a freeway cruise. If your lucky youll get 35-40 mph winds out of the fan. You need nearly double that to simulate freeway driving.

 

Except for the fact that it is "Suspected" that the FPIK hp numbers would change dramatically with the hood closed. I was hoping the you could offer us some proof and end all of the speculation.
Back to back FPIK pulls one with the hood open one with it closed? I think that the wires could be arranged to let the hood be shut. Maybe not.

 

Way back when the car had 700 mile, I dynoed it stock 299 hp and 314 tq.

Then put the FIPK on right after and dynoed 314 hp and 324 tq.

So you shouldn't have to drive around, good luck.

 

sometimes the immediate hp gains are larger than the long term ones.. learned that on the WRX.. sometiems the computer adds fuel to compensate over time.... richening your mixture killing a tiny bit of that power

 

I think it's even less realistic to test a any modification on a motor that requires air, by shutting off the air ...

Sure I don't drive around with my hood open ... but how often do you do a sustained WOT while sitting in neutral???

The idea is to create as near as possible real world conditions, you do that with the hood open to get the air to the engine.

 

Here's a thread about dynoing with the hood down versus having it up:

http://www.ls1tech.com/threads/showf...rue#Post521410

My results:

308.5 rwhp 326.4 rwtq stock (only 1 pull)
320.4 rwhp 338.8 rwtq FIPK (only 1 pull)

(11.9 rwhp/12.4 rwtq gain)

-Both runs were done with the hood open. The dyno tech didn't want to try to close the hood.
-We had a fan that was blowing in the general direction of the engine, but you could barely feel it when standing right in front of the car.
-I decided to do just one pull in each condition because I wasn't going to be able to test with the hood down and I just wanted to know the approximate condition of this thing.
-I swaped parts on the dyno (no acclimation period-started it and dyno'd).
-I logged some data in autotap for both dyno pulls. There were some issues with knock retard. It's time for a double post...

I'm not sure what I believe...but I think the #s are decent for a car with just an intake. It's basically where my '98 was.

 

OK...as I said, I have autotap log files for both pulls. There was a 48 minute interim between runs (the engine was off). On the stock pull, there was 0 knock retard:

RPM KR Timing Adv
4636 0 22.5
4796 0 22.5
4959 0 23
5103 0 23
5264 0 23.5
5403 0 24
5543 0 24.5
5669 0 25
5803 0 25.5
5933 0 25.5
6058 0 26
6163 0 26

IAT was 95* and engine coolant temp was 201*.

On the FIPK pull, there was up to 3* of knock retard:

RPM KR timing adv
4733 1.1 23
4894 3.0 21.5
5062 2.7 22
5226 2.5 22
5371 2.4 22.5
5519 2.2 23
5660 1.9 24
5790 1.8 24
5930 1.6 24.5
6062 1.5 25
6179 1.4 25.5

IAT was 95* and engine coolant temp was 194*.

A peculiar thing happened to the fuel curve. We used a wide-band O2 sensor and I don't believe the results. In the above RPM range, A/F was 13.9:1-13.7:1 for stock and 14.6:1-14.4:1 with the FIPK. Isn't that lean as hell for WOT? Average O2 MV readings for bank 1 dropped 38 MV from 952 to 914. I'm thinking that a lean mixture is to blame for the knock retard...meaning the FIPK #s could end up even higher.

 

hmm have you seen how I have done it?

I would establish repeatable numbers on your stock car.
3 runs back to back.
Add FIPK (it will take a bit but try to do it ASAP)
Make 3 more runs with FIPK
If you have an aftermarket lid and or filter laying around, test those as well. same 3 runs back to back.
Revert to stock. Make 3 more runs. Enjoy numbers.

My car showed stabil numbers so I was doing 2-3 pulls back to back with little change in the numbers.

Good Luck! POST ASAP!

I rent out the dyno for the hour.. Dont get rushed that way with a 2-3 pull dyno deal.. hate those..
here its $125 for 1 hour or $75 for 2-3 pulls.. sounds like 1 hour of dyno time is a far better value! hehe

 

1 run doesnt constitute a problem.. have you taken more readings with the same outcome?

Just wondering as the computer should be learning by now.

I know I had 1 freakish run out of like 25 in 1 day that was weird.. so I through it out.. It ran almost perfect A/F ratio but never duplicated..

 

psy, I was wondering how you could afford so many pulls. I guess I'm just a little cheaper than you are. This doesn't matter enough for me to spend $200 in dyno expenses. We have one dyno in town, and I don't even think he rents it by the hour.

I did log some other pulls later in the day, but those were on the street and in second gear (not fourth). I think the load on the car is different on the street. I was getting ~1 degree of knock retard and my 02s hung out at around .905. My IAT rose quickly once I ventured out of the dyno building and into the 100 degree heat. I do think that a problem with the FIPK kit is the metal plate that covers the radiator and lies directly underneath the filter. Why did they choose metal, when the stock hardware is plastic? Durability? Having that metal there is like having an over burner directly underneath the filter. IATs do tend to be higher than stock at low speeds, but the difference gets very small once you're moving at about 40 mph+. I'm going to insulate the plate and see if that eliminates the extra heat.

The FIPK would have made even more power without that 2-3 degrees of knock retard on the dyno.

Now, about the A/F...is anyone getting wideband O2 readings in the 14.6:1-14.4:1 range for WOT from 4700-6200 rpm?