Hooker Long tube headers bad? good?
#1
Hooker Long tube headers bad? good?
I need help, I need to know if they are worth buying? I have a stock 2000 SS and I don't know if its worth it or not. i need someone whith any type of headers to give me an I dea as to what I should be looking for. any help would be greatly appreciated....
#5
i would say get the coating, not only do they look better but they are suposed to last longer with coating. Plus it is 18 guage steal, thinner than the others, so i would buy all you can to lengthen the life and prevent cracking.
#7
Summit sells the l/t hooker headers and y-pipe painted black$399, coated $579, y-pipe is $169 black , $259 caoted. The coating lowers under hood temp alot, worth it just for the looks! The y pipe is only sold as off road though.
#8
I ordered some Hookers from Jet Hot. Their coating is awesome and second to none. The Hookers are one of the best choices for a lowered car. I am having a custom Y-pipe made, because their Y-pipe does not come with cats.
#9
Hooker LT Headers
Here's some advice if considering the hooker LT headers. I bought them direct from jet hot 5 months ago from a guy named Chris. I knew nothing about headers except they would make the performance of my car better. These headers have been nothing but a problem since I bought them and had them installed. For one, if you're putting them on an ls1 (98+), they have to be trimmed as they won't fit correctly under the carriage. Because of this, the placement of the o2 sensor has to be moved, and this is where my problem has been. Ever since they were installed, I've had my check engine light on continuously for five months. I've had the computer scanned about 5 times and every time it has said there was low volume in the left o2 sensor bung. I've replaced both sensors in the front (at a cost of about $140 each) and still the same problem. My car won't pass inspection next month now until the light goes out, and my only alternative seems to be to either remove the headers altogether and blow the cost I paid to install them, or take a risk and install a second o2 sensor on the other side of the collector and splice the wiring with the wiring harness to see if the two sensors together will pick up all volume flowing through. It's all very frustrating, and expensive. The installation alone cost me more than the actual headers (had to pretty much redo entire exhaust system because long tube headers require a second catalytic converter and y-pipe). In my opinion, I would suggest shorty headers now that I've gained some experience and knowledge dealing with the exhaust system. The low end torque with long tubes isn't that noticeable, and for the expense and hastle I've had I wish I had known before hand to go with shorty headers. Of course, Chris at jet hot is probably only concerned with making the most money possible, and that's why I was advised by him to buy the long tubes (ceramic coated) as I did. But if you really want the long tubes, I'll be happy to sell mine to you. I'll cut you a deal $100 cheaper than jet hot, and they're coated. Otherwise, buy shorties. Good luck.
#10
Re: Hooker LT Headers
the guy above is the only person I have heard say the headers need to be "trimmed" I can only assume what he means by that. If its not a convertable there must be something aftermarket on that car that is causing the interference. Either that or the installer had his head in his rectum.
I put hookers on in my garage by myself on a pair of jackstands. and had NO problems after I decided to follow the directions. in fact, if the car had been upside down, they would have literaly fallen into place. and I have SLP subframe connectors, which are known for interfereing with LT's. all this was without the benifit of ANY prior information or help, as I was the very first one to install them (or at least the first one to say anythign about it)
perhaps the "trimming" is what is causing your O2 sensor problem. what did you trim?
all LT headers will require the movement of the O2 sensors, as will mid lengths. but I have had no probems with my O2's since I put the headers in and neither have thousands of others with LT's. I have to think you are either one seriously unlucky dude, or there is something you dont realize happening. possibly header related, or possibly install related.
to the original poster... If your SS is stock I will help, but not all that much, you need to open the intake up too. the intake is the restriction on these things. get a lid and filter first. and maybe consider an LS6 intake
BTW, shorty headers on these cars have proven to be pretty useless. the stock manifolds flow very well for manifolds. almost as good as the shorties.
I put hookers on in my garage by myself on a pair of jackstands. and had NO problems after I decided to follow the directions. in fact, if the car had been upside down, they would have literaly fallen into place. and I have SLP subframe connectors, which are known for interfereing with LT's. all this was without the benifit of ANY prior information or help, as I was the very first one to install them (or at least the first one to say anythign about it)
perhaps the "trimming" is what is causing your O2 sensor problem. what did you trim?
all LT headers will require the movement of the O2 sensors, as will mid lengths. but I have had no probems with my O2's since I put the headers in and neither have thousands of others with LT's. I have to think you are either one seriously unlucky dude, or there is something you dont realize happening. possibly header related, or possibly install related.
to the original poster... If your SS is stock I will help, but not all that much, you need to open the intake up too. the intake is the restriction on these things. get a lid and filter first. and maybe consider an LS6 intake
BTW, shorty headers on these cars have proven to be pretty useless. the stock manifolds flow very well for manifolds. almost as good as the shorties.
#12
I only have one question about the Hookers. I have a 2000. What is required for them to work with my car? Paul at thunder said something about the EGR and smog pipe.
Is there a better alternative for the 2000's. Rather than the Hookers.
Is there a better alternative for the 2000's. Rather than the Hookers.
#13
how about this...are hooker long tubes (which I have heard almost nothing negative about) compatible with borla's Y pipe? Reason I ask is, I am putting in a borla y and catback system on Tues, and then planned on going with hooker L/T's...will I run into trouble ya think?
#14
Im not sure about the EGR, but the air tubes on 2000's have a flange that is "rotated" is the best word I can think of, so the air tubes either need to be mangle engeineered, which ususly involves cutting and rewelding them, or you need air tubes from a 98-99.
Or you could just remove the air system all together. Its only there to heat the cats up quicker.
I havent seen the borla Y, but my understanding is that it is designed for use with the stock manifold and cats. If that is the case it will not work with the Hookers.
Or you could just remove the air system all together. Its only there to heat the cats up quicker.
I havent seen the borla Y, but my understanding is that it is designed for use with the stock manifold and cats. If that is the case it will not work with the Hookers.