I was going to ask this on LS1tech, but they've been a bunch of A-Holes lately in the internal room.

Ok, I'm assuming I'll need two sets of head bolts, or can I reuse the stockers that I removed just to check the PTV clearance?

I take it I can just take a thin layer of play-doh, about 1/4 thick, w/o the spark plugs, and spin the engine over by hand. Or should I pull the fuel and ignition fuses/solenoids and spin the engine over w/ the battery to pump the lifters up? -Not a good idea? Risking bent PR's?

THanx..

 

NO DON'T USE PLAY-DOH! It is somewhat elastic and will not give you a true reading. Instead, use modeling clay.

You can reuse old head bolts for this, and you really only need a couple of bolts to do it. The head needs to be installed with the gasket and torqued down with a couple of the bolts. Torque of the head bolts isn't critical here, but it needs to be enough to crush the head gasket. Turn the engine over BY HAND! DO NOT USE THE STARTER! If there is any interference (not likely) turning the engine over with the starter will ruin your whole project.

The lifters will not be pumped up for this, so you'll either need a solid roller lifter with all the proper dimensions and matching pushrod, or you can modify a stock lifter by tack welding the lifter so it cannot collapse.

What is the setup you want to run?

 

^ I'm going to be doing a TF heads and cam combo. I was going to keep the cam grind as hush hush as I could, but for the sake of PTV Clearance advice, I'll have to let it go.

The duration is MILD, but the lift is .639 at the most. I don't think PTV clearance should be an issue, but better safe than sorry.

I'll be using the cometic head gaskets too.. I think they're .040".

 

If you use checking springs it won't matter if the lifters are pumped or not. They are a real soft spring that just barely holds the valve closed and will not compress the lifter. Do you have a long travel dial indicator available to use? If so just skip the clay and measure using the checking springs of course.

 

Well, there are only so many LSK lobes out there, so given the "mild duration and .639 lift at most" gives me a pretty good idea of what you're running I am not familiar with the TFS heads, but I do believe that the altered valve angle gives more clearance. If you're running that intake lobe with a .040" gasket, anything smaller than a 111LSA will be tight, even with the TFS heads.

 

How much duration? How much advance? How big are the valves? Heads going to be milled any? Those are all critical things when deciding.

Are you opposed to flycutting the pistons?

Put it this way.... If the cam isn't advanced much and the duration is still somewhere in the low 230s and intake valves are 2.02 or less, then I don't think you'll have any problem as long as you install the stock head gasket instead of the Cometic. Using anything over a .610 cam in a heads/cam combo is a pretty bad idea IMO when you're using bigger than stock valves and a thinner than stock head gasket and using a +4 grind cam. The TRAK (is that what you're using?) is basically a max-effort street grind cam-only cam with I BELIEVE LSK lobes for intake and XER lobes for exhaust.

My old heads/cam setup had MINIMAL clearance (something like .065-.070" with .020" milled heads and 2.055 intake valves, however, the cam was only advanced 2 degrees and I was still using a stock head gasket.)

Let's put it into perspective - PtV clearance of my build VS your build. .... + = pros / - = cons
My build:
+ Lift .610
+ Cam advance +2
+ Head Gasket .051
- Milled Heads .020
- Intake Valves 2.055

Your build:
- Lift .639
Cam advance ?
- Head Gasket .040
Milled Heads ?
Intake Valves ?

Fill in the ? marks and maybe I can help you. PM me if you dont' want it to be made public.

Mike

 

ok... I guess I have to let the cat out of the bag now.

224/228 .637 .639 110 LSA, 5* overlap, O advance.
64cc Chamber
2.04" intake valves
NOT milled
Cometic (I like these better.)
13* intake valve angle

You should be able to tell almost buy the lift. The only reason I see to get really in depth into someone's set up is if they're running the TReX, MS4 or TSP Texas Giant cam. OR milled heads.. I can see a problem w/ stage 2.5 heads and 245 duration, .639 lift and a 110lsa..

W/ MILD duration and no more than .639 lift on a 110 and 5* of overlap, I don't see a problem with it, I just thought I'd better make sure.

 

You should be okay with 0 advance, but the .640 lift with 2.04 valves and .040" head gasket still scares me a little. I'd still check it.

 

That should fit without any problems. Why go with such a mild grind if you're stepping up to the TFS heads?

 

The lift makes up for it. It's at special order TQ'r cam.

I think too many people are over cam'ing the LS1's anyway. Sure your MS4 MAY make 500hp, but you have to tach the **** out of it.. W/ this cam you do not.

Who in the heck sells AFR 8019 springs anyway? I can't find them... Can I use them on TFS heads or is it just AFR specific??? What valves @ 2.04"?? The springs that come on TF ehads are only good to .600" lift.

Check it..
And maybe I should have read that thread I found the cam in a little more.

 

You'll probably be fine with some Patriot Gold Springs.

 

^ Cool. I just wanted to try to do something different. THe AFR springs have a NICE seat pressure.

I found the dyno results for the cam. DAMN NICE!! These were w/ AFR 225 heads. The XE-R Cam tested is 234/238 .598/.605 114LSA (+2). I'd really like to do the TF heads because prior tests have proved they flow as good as AFR 225 heads even w/ the 215 intake runner.

I think this cam should work w/ the 383ci. I'm not going to dish out $9000 for a new engine when I can just do a forged bottom end for a 383 cube, then boost it. I may have to switch cams by the time the turbo arrives, but that is about 2 years down the road.

Seat pressure specs.

 

When I thought that those numbers aren't nearly as impressive as I thought they'd be, I saw that they were AFR 225s instead of Trickflows. I made better numbers than that with an F-15 236/239 .600/.611 112 +2 and Dart 225s @ 471/416 through a Vette IRS.

The Trickflows should make much more power.

I think you're spending too much time on that "other" board

Mike

 

You do not need to use the head gasket. I never do, just add the dimension in.

Rich

 

^ Ah... thanx for that one.. I don't feel like buying two... THe vendor who designed the cam says I don't have anything to worry about w/ PTV clearance.. But that for the help for the next time I have to do it..