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How hard is it to change your gear? I have 4.10s and want to go with 3.73's.

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Old 08-16-2002, 09:14 AM
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Post How hard is it to change your gear? I have 4.10s and want to go with 3.73's.

Whats involved in doing the change? The prev. owner did the gear swap before I bought the car, so I don't know...

I have 4.10s in my '98 Z, with an auto. Its also most tooooo much. I'm currenly re-doing the suspension, but I still can't hook up from a roll. I'd like to be able to get on my with out having to wait til mid 2nd gear to kick in.

Its fun for doing burn outs, but tire smoke doesn't win races.

I'm also worried about my 10 bolt. I don't want to blow it up. I will be doing a T/A rear-end cover (girdle) next weekend, and I want to know how hard it would be to change the gears.

See my sig for all the work I've done to try and hook up....none of it has helped.

Milo


------------------
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:45 AM
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First of all I would go with the 3.42 gear. I had a 94 Z28 and I put 3.73 gears in it and the problem I had was in th 1/4 mile right before the traps it would shift into overdrive. You do not want an automatic going into overdrive in the 1/4 mile. I ended up putting the 3.23 gears back in and I got rearended before I took it back to the track. I now have a 99SS with 3.23 gears and it is hard to get traction with them but I did manage a 13.65 on a 90 degree day. As far as changing the gears unless you have alot of mechanical experience, extra shimms, micrometer, and a dial indicator I would not attempt it. You can do the way alot of people do and just take it apart use the same shimms and crush sleeve and simply install the new pinion and ring without proper setup. If you do this it will whine and you are flirting with disaster. Once a gear is improperly installed and whines it will always whine even if reinstalled by a professional. The only reason I did my own is because I have seen th guy who does mine do about 10 of them but I will not do another.
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Old 08-16-2002, 12:00 PM
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Milo,

Changing the ring and pinion takes a bit of work. Something I have not done yet. I have blown my posi and replaced it, reusing the stock 3.42 ring on it. I reused the shims and so far no gear whine. The difference there is that I did not pull out the pinion gear which is where most of the work is.

If you want my 3.42 ring and pinion gears (you can reuse your posi or get an Eaton or a Auburn instead) let me know. That will take a little more than a trip to McDonalds for you though!

If you're going to swap out the gears, have one of the local shops do it for you. We can help you find one, Dreamer1q has some great connections and I know of a few places as well.

You're running a 4.10 in an auto? That's just sick! Hell I'm only upgrading to a 3.73 in my M6.

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Old 08-16-2002, 12:30 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by derty:
Milo,

Changing the ring and pinion takes a bit of work. Something I have not done yet. I have blown my posi and replaced it, reusing the stock 3.42 ring on it. I reused the shims and so far no gear whine. The difference there is that I did not pull out the pinion gear which is where most of the work is.

If you want my 3.42 ring and pinion gears (you can reuse your posi or get an Eaton or a Auburn instead) let me know. That will take a little more than a trip to McDonalds for you though!

If you're going to swap out the gears, have one of the local shops do it for you. We can help you find one, Dreamer1q has some great connections and I know of a few places as well.

You're running a 4.10 in an auto? That's just sick! Hell I'm only upgrading to a 3.73 in my M6.

</font>
derty, I know its steep for an Auto...but it was like that when I bought it. Its almost to much for me. I am more interested in doing it ,then planning for it now.

After my insurance got canceled, I have to find a new carrier, some pleaces are asking up to $500 dollars......this hurts the wallet. I won't be able to do the gears, just asking about it. Trust me, a job like would be worth more then Micky D's.

brndn - thank you for the advice, and explaining the proccess to me

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Old 08-16-2002, 12:35 PM
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First off, for an A4 4.10s are way to much gear ... unless you are going with primarly a strip set up and a high end cam that's pushing your power band higher into the RPM range.

For an auto 3.73s are a good set up, just make sure you stay in D, so you don't shift into OD ... you'll be crossing the traps right around 5700-5900 rpm. Depending upon what your MPH is at that point and where your shift points are, you could find yourself shifting into OD.

As far as blowing off first gear on the street ... that's going to happen, even on stock gears, particularly on street tires. You'll just have to learn to feather your launch and tires such as Nitto DRs will help more than anything.

Also what do you have those AGXs set at? For drag racing you want the fronts set at 1 and the backs at least to 6 or 7 - I actually trick the set up and set the rear right to 8 and the rear left to 5 or 6 depending upon track conditions.

Last, unless you have a lot of mechanical acum, I would recommend finding a good shop to do your gear swap. You're also going have to find out how the previous owner calibrated the gear swap ... Because you're going have to recalibrate, if he did something like the SLP plug in, you should be OK. But if he flashed the computer, you really need the original program, since you have no way of knowing what else has been changed.

Good Luck

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[This message has been edited by V6toZ28 (edited August 16, 2002).]
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Old 08-16-2002, 03:23 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
First off, for an A4 4.10s are way to much gear ... unless you are going with primarly a strip set up and a high end cam that's pushing your power band higher into the RPM range. </font>

No Cam as of yet...or as far as I know. There were, and still are a lot of unknowns with this car. I bought it from a whole sale dealer. He knew nothing about the car.

I just know when I drove it home, I learned it had a different gear in it. I jacked up the rear ties and spun the tire once and counted how many times the drive shaft spun over. It was just over 4 = 4.10 gears.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
For an auto 3.73s are a good set up, just make sure you stay in D, so you don't shift into OD ... you'll be crossing the traps right around 5700-5900 rpm. Depending upon what your MPH is at that point and where your shift points are, you could find yourself shifting into OD.</font>

I have a HPP, and can play with the shift points along with the rev limiter. I think with some track time, I should be able to get it to shift right.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
As far as blowing off first gear on the street ... that's going to happen, even on stock gears, particularly on street tires. You'll just have to learn to feather your launch and tires such as Nitto DRs will help more than anything. </font>

Street Slicks are on my list.....
I just want to be careful not blow my 10-bolt. I think with just street slicks, not real slicks, I should be okay.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
Also what do you have those AGXs set at? For drag racing you want the fronts set at 1 and the backs at least to 6 or 7 - I actually trick the set up and set the rear right to 8 and the rear left to 5 or 6 depending upon track conditions.</font>

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I have asked everyone what they should be set at, or at least an idea...no body knew. Right now they are set at like 6 in the front, and 8 in the back. I'll try your combo and see how it helps me from a stop.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
Last, unless you have a lot of mechanical acum, I would recommend finding a good shop to do your gear swap. You're also going have to find out how the previous owner calibrated the gear swap ... Because you're going have to recalibrate, if he did something like the SLP plug in, you should be OK. But if he flashed the computer, you really need the original program, since you have no way of knowing what else has been changed.</font>

As I said before, I have a HPP, so doing the gears wouldn't be an issue. Also, like I mentioned before, the gears were done before I bought the car, so I have no idea what he did, or what needs to be done.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
Good Luck</font>
Thanks!
Milo
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Old 08-16-2002, 03:33 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by V6toZ28:
Also what do you have those AGXs set at? For drag racing you want the fronts set at 1 and the backs at least to 6 or 7 - I actually trick the set up and set the rear right to 8 and the rear left to 5 or 6 depending upon track conditions.
</font>
Those are just the track settings right? What do you normally have them set at?
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Old 08-16-2002, 04:59 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Z-Fbody:
Those are just the track settings right? What do you normally have them set at?</font>
I only have them in the rear. Since they really don't do you any good vis-a-vis drag racing up front. Before I got them I called KYB to understand what the settings accomplished.

Basically on the AGXs setting 1 is approximately equivalent to stock OEM. Since you want to release, you need a softer setting than stock up front. So for now I just left the stock shock up front, since there is nothing to be gained with the KYBs - eventually I'll probably get the HALs.

In the rear the opposite is true. You want the rear to be stiff and not squat on the tires, turning them into a giant spring. So the KYBs are a good choice, giving 8 ranges of stiffness from OEM up- personally, bang for the buck KYBs are better than the HALs, since you don't need to use the HALs first 4/5 settings, which are softer than stock, in the rear.

So as far as my street set up, I'm stock shocks in the front and I run 1 or 2 on the KYBs in the rear. I prefer 2, but my wife bitches about the ride so I'll put them to 1 to appease her.

As far as your 10 bolt ... I'm now on my third set of Hoosier QTPs and the rear is holding up fine.

Since you have the HPP3, if you haven't done so already go ahead and calibrate for the 4.10s

Good Luck
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Old 08-16-2002, 10:56 PM
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4.10s with an auto is so cool. My friend has them in his 69 Camaro auto...Hell I think you should keep them...I want to get some 4.56s for my 12-bolt but I am too cheap...But my car is a 6spd too...My dad used to run 4.88s to 5.13s in his 62 Impala which was a 283 with a powerglide(for those that dont know its a 2 spd auto trans)

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