im ordering my parts here in the next few days (once texas speed gets there shipping calculator fixxed) here is my list , im open to changes, and expectations:
1 ms4 cam
2 texas speed ls6 style heads, cnc porting, prc dual springs, 2.00/1.55
3 FAST 90/90 intake w/ tb
4 ls2 timing set
5 255lph in tank fuel pump
6 42 lb seimens injectors
7 ram 500 hp clutch with .150 shim
8 arp 12 pt head bolts
9 gm head gaskets & gm cam swap kit
10 ls6 ported oil pump
11 crane hydraulic roller lifters
12 pacesetter coated longtubes, with a.i.r.
13 texas speed cat-y pipe
14 gmmg catback exhaust
15 tubular subframe connectors (for lowered car clearance)
16 eibach pro kit springs
17 3.73 rear end gears and install kit ( untill i get moser 12 bolt)
18 texas speed tuning
19 160* thermostat

how much power should i expect to the ground with this combo, as far as what texas-speed has to offer how are these lifters, car will be a somewhat daily driver , i dont care too much about driveability , ill just be goin back and forth from home to base, with drag strip runs maybe once a month, the only stipulation is that i have to pass north carolina's vehicle inspection, no sniffer pipe but thorough inspection top to bottom, a last resort for this would be a bribe but id rather it be legite, any comments are welcome thank you

 

Any relocation of the cats can fail a visual.

42s are too much injector.
Jump up to the head studs instead of bolts you'll never regret it
There are many less expensive good cat backs out there

 

I also think 42lbers are too much. How about some SVO 30lbers, or 36s if you are really concerned...
I'll willing to bet you'll get about 445rwhp/430rwtq with that combo...

 

So i should go with 30-36 lb injectors.

1 What are some cheaper catbacks out there that sound great? The reason i wanted the gmmg is because everyone talked about how good it sounded.

2 Other than the cats, should i be good to pass an inspection?

3 Ive read the ram clutch requires the billet flywheel, however i cant fit that into my budget, is it necesary?

4 The only thing holding me back from head studs is that i have to get the heads on while on post-deployment leave, so i dont have the time or assets to pull the engine so i can get the heads over the studs.

5 I hear the stock ls1 rod bolts are questionable above 6800 rpm, but werent they revised for the 02 ls1's or should i go ahead and order some for a later project?

thanks

 

You can put the studs that the head won't fit over in after the head is on the engine. Also 42's will be ok, but you will be more than fine with the 30's. I would stick with the stock fuel pump to. I am running rich on mine with 441/407 at the wheels. Hooker catback is nice, quiet and doesn't restrict much. I picked up 13 to the wheels with a cutout. I highly doubt you will make more than 420/395 to the wheels with cats on it. Unless you gut them. The prc ls6 head is ok, but mine fell off at 6300 rpm. Get the fast ported before you put it on. Don't waste your money on a mail order tune either. Take it there for a tune or find somebody local to tune it for you.

 

I'm about to order the same stuff.

 

Good stuff, Broke TA! IMO the ARP head bolts are fine in this application and the 42s are way overkill. The stock fuel pump is OK, but a good inline booster is only like $130. I agree that the Hooker catback is a great bang for the buck mod and also agree that a cut-out is cheaper and more effective. I made 436/420 with a smaller cam and 5.7-style heads and the cats should only cost 10rwhp max. It is all in the tune, so don't skimp there.

 

I was told today that the ms4 would require modifications to use I'm guessing flycutting. Were you told the same?

 

I'm guessing around 440 rwhp since that's a huge cam for a 346 and somewhat decent heads.

30# SVO Injectors (That's what I had in my 471/416 rwhp heads/cam car)

I'd step up the rear end gears to at least a 4.10 or the car isn't going to be very friendly to drive on the street. I had a smaller cam (236/239) in a lighter LS1 Vette with 4.10s and the cam made the car feel lazy on the bottom end. I couldn't imagine driving it with 3.73 gears and a heavy F-body.

The Ram Street Dual or VDS clutch are nicer pieces that you won't have to upgrade ever. I'd stay away from the powergrip and at least get the Powergrip HD, since that engine combo will make well over 500 hp.

The Melling OEM replacement lifters are fine (Acually your stock lifters are fine unless you have lots of mileage on them). The real upgrade to those would be the Morel.

BTW, I had Dart 225s and a Futral F-15 and made 471 rwhp.

Mike

 

I can see that happening on milled heads. If they don't mill your heads, you can probably get away with a big cam like that without a problem. The person assembling the engine should still check PtV clearance before they crank it up, however.

I had milled heads with my old car and the valve clearance was minimal with a 236/239 .611 lift 112 LSA 110 ICL cam heads milled .020". I'd definetly check PTV clearance before you start it with a .640 lift cam.

Mike

 

You can install all of the studs and drop the heads on with the motor in place. Then the next time that you need to pull a head you don't have to spend all the time necessary to clean out the bolt holes in the block again.

 

i thinking about switching from the ms4 to the torquer v.3, it will allow me to use 5.3 liter heads which have better flow numbers than the ls6 1.5 from texas speed, my goal is 450 rwhp , any input on how to get there without over kill is appreciated

 

I have had really good results with the fm13 cam from Futral Motorsports.

 

Dart 225s, Fast 90/90, Futral Motorsports F-15 cam got me to 471 rwhp.

Mike

 

the torquer with heads flowing 300+ at .600" lift and all the associated bolt ons...should have you pretty close to 450rwhp.

add on the Fast 90/90 and you'll definatly be there

assuming a good tune

with the old version of the torquer cam and a moderate tune i'm at about 400rwhp with stock heads.