I cant get my car to stop pinging!
#1
I cant get my car to stop pinging!
See my sig. I always run 93 octane, and 2 tanks ago used a fuel injector cleaner (it helped some) I have the 160 stat and run Amsoil. This thing still pings in the 5k range, whats the deal? Would a plug change help this at all? I cant really think of anything else that would help.
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'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
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'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
#2
Did you port the MAF ends? If so, that's the culprit. We sell the G2 hi-flow MAF that comes with calibrated electronics to take care of that problem.
Trevor - LGM
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'02 SS: 11.63 @ 114.06 MPH, 1.588 60'; 3,515# raceweight, 1,102' D.A.
naturally-aspirated with bolt-ons, a cam, and a fat converter!
L.G. Motorsports (972) 272-7753
Check out the SS!
Trevor - LGM
------------------
'02 SS: 11.63 @ 114.06 MPH, 1.588 60'; 3,515# raceweight, 1,102' D.A.
naturally-aspirated with bolt-ons, a cam, and a fat converter!
L.G. Motorsports (972) 272-7753
Check out the SS!
#3
I have the Granateli high flow MAF already
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'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
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'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
#4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by GC456:
I have the Granateli high flow MAF already
</font>
I have the Granateli high flow MAF already
</font>
Kevin
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1998 Black Z28 A4
-------1/8-------
8.584 @ 83.64 MPH
Pics
Camaro/Firebird Birthday Bash
#5
He's right, in the majority of stock, or bolt on LS1's, mass air flow sensors are a waste of time. Unless you got a MAFT or cam and heads and so on. Depends on how you drive and what the cars fuel curve is in the ODB
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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
Borla (the expensive cut-out), Wisperlid W/K&N, FRA, Cags eliminator, Strange 4.10's, G2 Rear Girdle, Valv. Synthetic 10W-30, Redline gear oil, Fat hurst shift ****, Lead foot
Soon to be:
Alpine Screen, Orion xtr 800.4, xtrpro 1000, Kicker 12L7 in a milhouse, Focal polykev K2's, Focal utopia 6" audiom midrange.
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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
Borla (the expensive cut-out), Wisperlid W/K&N, FRA, Cags eliminator, Strange 4.10's, G2 Rear Girdle, Valv. Synthetic 10W-30, Redline gear oil, Fat hurst shift ****, Lead foot
Soon to be:
Alpine Screen, Orion xtr 800.4, xtrpro 1000, Kicker 12L7 in a milhouse, Focal polykev K2's, Focal utopia 6" audiom midrange.
#6
Better not say that about the GMS Maf, one of his employee's will start postting pretending to be a regular member telling us how great they are.. again
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DaveD
1998 WS6 #207
-ARE Stage II Head/Cam
1998 Regal GS
-It Has Boost
The Phantom of CamaroZ28.com
Http://PhantomTA.cz28.com
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DaveD
1998 WS6 #207
-ARE Stage II Head/Cam
1998 Regal GS
-It Has Boost
The Phantom of CamaroZ28.com
Http://PhantomTA.cz28.com
#7
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by PhantomTA:
Better not say that about the GMS Maf, one of his employee's will start postting pretending to be a regular member telling us how great they are.. again
</font>
Better not say that about the GMS Maf, one of his employee's will start postting pretending to be a regular member telling us how great they are.. again
</font>
Yeah I guess I should have said "any" MAF sensor
Kevin
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1998 Black Z28 A4
-------1/8-------
8.584 @ 83.64 MPH
Pics
Camaro/Firebird Birthday Bash
#8
I'm no employee of anyone you know, but I am a fan of ported MAF ends. You do it right and they are worth power.
The thing you need to get rid of detonation is to cool the combustion chamber down some to get rid of hot spots.
Use high octane fuel of course
Run a free 160 degree thermostat ( http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180 )
Run a fan switch, either auto or manual, auto is easier.
Do the throttle body bypass
These things are all I needed to get rid of my detonation.
One other thing that will help if you have it bad is going one step lower heat range on your spark plugs. That will knock it right out, but is not the best thing performance wise.
If you think there could be carbon build up in your engine, that would cause detonation too. You can run a top end cleaner to get rid of that. I forgot what GM calls their's but it's the same as Seafoam... NAPA carries that for sure.
One other thing, I see you have a 98, we have a bad PCV valve design. It tends to get oil into the incoming fuel/air charge and that lowers the octane drasticly, even a tiny amount. Go to your dealer parts counter if you haven't already and get the revised PCV. I don't know if that was a factor in getting rid of my detonation, but I did it around the same time as some of the others and it went away. This was my cure for detonation, and it was a severe case.
In the end I got to do some free mods and keep my ported MAF ends which was worth horsepower.
My .02
Dave
Edit: I see that you have the 160 stat... :doh: but it won't do you much good until you get a fan switch going to get air flowing through that radiator. Just having the stat only works at highway speed because forward motion keeps air flowing through your radiator...
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[This message has been edited by ratio411 (edited August 03, 2002).]
The thing you need to get rid of detonation is to cool the combustion chamber down some to get rid of hot spots.
Use high octane fuel of course
Run a free 160 degree thermostat ( http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180 )
Run a fan switch, either auto or manual, auto is easier.
Do the throttle body bypass
These things are all I needed to get rid of my detonation.
One other thing that will help if you have it bad is going one step lower heat range on your spark plugs. That will knock it right out, but is not the best thing performance wise.
If you think there could be carbon build up in your engine, that would cause detonation too. You can run a top end cleaner to get rid of that. I forgot what GM calls their's but it's the same as Seafoam... NAPA carries that for sure.
One other thing, I see you have a 98, we have a bad PCV valve design. It tends to get oil into the incoming fuel/air charge and that lowers the octane drasticly, even a tiny amount. Go to your dealer parts counter if you haven't already and get the revised PCV. I don't know if that was a factor in getting rid of my detonation, but I did it around the same time as some of the others and it went away. This was my cure for detonation, and it was a severe case.
In the end I got to do some free mods and keep my ported MAF ends which was worth horsepower.
My .02
Dave
Edit: I see that you have the 160 stat... :doh: but it won't do you much good until you get a fan switch going to get air flowing through that radiator. Just having the stat only works at highway speed because forward motion keeps air flowing through your radiator...
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- Dynomouth Exhaust!
- My 98...318 rwhp/334 ft lbs
- Mesh Grille
- 71-74 Emblems
- Clear Corners
- My New Home Page
- mn55927@citlink.net
[This message has been edited by ratio411 (edited August 03, 2002).]
#10
Yea ratio411 that is one sweet ride!
I understand that the fan switch (or HPP) would do alot of good, but I also noticed it the other night with very cool air. I was on the highway and the engine temp was around 170-175. I will however look into the PCV valve.
Thx everyone for the info.
------------------
'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, Granatelli MAF, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
I understand that the fan switch (or HPP) would do alot of good, but I also noticed it the other night with very cool air. I was on the highway and the engine temp was around 170-175. I will however look into the PCV valve.
Thx everyone for the info.
------------------
'98 Artic White Z28 M6
Free Mods! LS1 Lid, Smooth Bellows, Granatelli MAF, 160 Stat, Flow Cat-back, B&M Ripper.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/gc456
#11
Stick the OEM MAF back on there and see what happens.
I've found that some cars take modified / aftermarket MAF and ends with no problems, while others cause the pinging you're talking about.
I've also found that the cars that make less power when stock tend to accept the MAF mods better than the cars that are close to becoming "factory freaks".
My 2001 Z28 laid down 284 RWHP bone stock. That's on the low side of what others are getting, but well within GM specs. It had no problems with the MAF port/polish and the same mods as the T/A.
My 2001 T/A didn't like the MAF ends. I tried a calibrated MAF, and it didn't work well either (better than port/polish, but not like I expected). I put the OEM ends, complete with screen, back on the car and all my pings went away.
Humor us ... put the OEM MAF back on and see what she does.
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2001 TransAm WS6, M6 3.42
HPP, TBB, 160* t-stat, MTI Lid, Holley PowerShot, Flowmaster 80, Port/Polish MAF
Pics of the T/A
2001 Z28
-- R.I.P. - 06/25/02
I've found that some cars take modified / aftermarket MAF and ends with no problems, while others cause the pinging you're talking about.
I've also found that the cars that make less power when stock tend to accept the MAF mods better than the cars that are close to becoming "factory freaks".
My 2001 Z28 laid down 284 RWHP bone stock. That's on the low side of what others are getting, but well within GM specs. It had no problems with the MAF port/polish and the same mods as the T/A.
My 2001 T/A didn't like the MAF ends. I tried a calibrated MAF, and it didn't work well either (better than port/polish, but not like I expected). I put the OEM ends, complete with screen, back on the car and all my pings went away.
Humor us ... put the OEM MAF back on and see what she does.
------------------
2001 TransAm WS6, M6 3.42
HPP, TBB, 160* t-stat, MTI Lid, Holley PowerShot, Flowmaster 80, Port/Polish MAF
Pics of the T/A
2001 Z28
-- R.I.P. - 06/25/02
#12
Question - What is pinging? I mean, how will I know if it is pinging, what does it do, whats it sound or feel like?
I'm new around here =)
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-2002 Red Camaro SS
Chesapeake, Virginia
http://www.HeadRushPerformance.Com
I'm new around here =)
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-2002 Red Camaro SS
Chesapeake, Virginia
http://www.HeadRushPerformance.Com
#13
I was always under the impression that the bad PCV was an 01-02 issue. Mine in my 98 has never had any problems and after my heads and cam still has no oil consumption issues either. I did have some oil behind the Tb but that was after 45,000 miles of hard driving. I've checked a few times now after my new LS6 intake I installed and I haven't noticed any oil behind the tb or in the intake.
This is an offtopic question, but would installing a breather eliminate the use of a PCV system? Would it be worthwhile to do in my case where the PCV is not causing any issues? I plan to spray soon on my current H/C setup, will this increase crank pressure and make it useful to use a breather?
Rick
This is an offtopic question, but would installing a breather eliminate the use of a PCV system? Would it be worthwhile to do in my case where the PCV is not causing any issues? I plan to spray soon on my current H/C setup, will this increase crank pressure and make it useful to use a breather?
Rick
#15
"Its the little things that count." You ask a question about pinging, a problem generally associated with timing which is in turn is related to the air/fuel ratio, etc. but then you don't tell us you have the Granetelli until later on! Put it in your sig, ALL YOUR MODS, if you expect accurate responses. The GMAF has been known to cause these problems all the time, especially on PCMs that have been re-programmed. My buddies LT1 355 (bored over) was retarding all day at 5000 rpms since he installed the GMAF, once removed the problem went away. That one guy is right, porting your own MAF ends is the way to go if you just have bolt on mods and yes it does add HP and its free, that's whay its been around for 8 years as a free mod. Its a 43% increase in intake air flow, do the math, its a great free mod.
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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Fernco, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.15@114, 0-60 4.85 (w/passenger) Gtech'd
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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Fernco, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.15@114, 0-60 4.85 (w/passenger) Gtech'd