Yo uguys putting some kind of locktichton the header bolts when installing them? If so what brand?

thanks

 

use locking header bolts

 

Do the locking HBs. I dont think I would use lock tite on Aluminum heads. JMO

 

Holy sh!te don't put locktite on header bolts! You'll end up stripping a bolt or breaking it off in the head the next time you try to remove them and end up having to pull a head for repairs. Trust me - that SUCKS.

Put the header bolts in clean and DRY. Some people even use a high temp anti-sieze on anythng that bolts into the head - I always use a tiny bit on spark plugs and exhaust stuff.

Tighten them well and often or use locking header bolts [a true PITA on some applicaitons].

 

Yeah, I wouldn't try loctite either. Maybe a bit of anti-seize to keep the bolts from bonding to the aluminum. Use locking header bolts if you're worried about them coming loose, and after a few heat cycles, non lockers usually will.

 

I have hear that most people use the stock bolts with no problems provided that they are cleaned. How much do header bolts run?

 

Ummmmmmmmmm the factory bolts have loctite on them. Anybody ever broke a bolt taking the stock manifolds off? I didn't. But I used the Stage 8 locking bolts on my headers. Peace of mind.

 

Al,
Since there is a few different types and strengths of Loc-tite I would advise this gentleman to just install regular header bolts and frequently tighten them for the first month.

True the factory puts a type of thread seal on there , but It is far from the strongest loc-tite Ive seen.

To save any confusion and damage to the head I would just do what 99% of us do and keep an eye on your header bolts and every Sat morning for a while just run over them with a ratchet.

 

Yeah everybody thinks that Loctite is Loctite. It's nothing to mess with if you aren't up on it. There's like a 100 different products.
The blue colored Loctite 242 is a very good all purpose thread lock and is easily removed with hand tools.
Stuff like the red 272 when used properly will only come loose when heated with a torch

 

Ummmmmmmmm...NO!!!! The factory puts anti-seize compound on the bolts. You will snap a header bolt off into the block when trying to remove them at a later date if you use Locktite. That's why the factory used anti-seize in the first place...to keep this from happening with the aluminum heads! If you break a bolt off trying to remove it, it will then necessitate removal of the hea to tap the bolt out.

I do agree that Stage 8 bolts are good insurance. I had clearance problems with the Stage 8's on Jet-Hot Lt's though....not enough room between the primar ypipes and bolt to properly insert the slipwashers that keep the bolts from untorquing.

 

I just took the factory manifolds off of my 2000 and I am a man with 35 years of mechanical experience. They had thread locker on them from the factory. I know anti sieze when I see it. And I know thread locker when I see it.
So do NOT call me a liar.

 

I talked to a SAE mechanic today and Al is correct.
They use a small amount of sealant that is made exclusively by GM. It will break lose with aproximately 11 lb ft of torque which is the holding strength. It is not an Anti- seize compound.


I knew that already...or had a strong idea thats what it was because anti- seize does not harden like that.

 

11ft/lbs is a pretty light locktite solution. I'll buy that for $1.00 I was always told that a high heat anti-seize was used. This info came from some very respectable mechanics. Oh well, I stand corrected

Schantin
2002 Camaro Z28 M6

 

FYI,

I have the GM '95 Camaro shop manual.

They used a Locktite on the manifold bolts.

I researched their number and it crossed to Red High Temp Loctite.

Makes me a little nervous to use it, but the break away torque is supposed to be 20 ft lbs. That isn't too bad.

 

I just used the stock bolts. No problems what so ever.