LS1 conversion into the unthinkable...
#1
LS1 conversion into the unthinkable...
First off... I've been around these parts for quite awhile although I haven't posted for ages. I have had four LS1 powered drop top WS6's so I am familiar with the motor and its abilities... that is why I have chosen it for my conversion... that and the fact that its quite a bit lighter than older SBC's.
I am in the terrible position that my current vehicle has spun a rod bearing and my extended warranty company has basically told me that I have abused and neglected my motor, therefore they aren't going to cover ANY of it. This is even after knowing that the motor in question has had a history of oiling problems and rod bearing problems that rear their ugly heads are 60K-70K miles... mine being at 73K miles, is a prime candidate. Well... its done.
I guess you might be wondering what the conversion is in, right? Ok, well... it's an Isuzu Vehicross! In case you don't know what it is... check my link in the sig... the thing is like none other... only made for three years and around 4200 units (give or take). The thing gets around KICK @$$ off road and so its not an option to dump the vehicle. I just like it too much.
Anyway, I have bought a complete LS1 motor with 4L60E transmission. Along with the motor/transmission, I also have the computer, harness, accessories, brackets, cat convertor and anything else that is needed. I have done some research and hope to mate my Born Warner Torque On Demand (TOD) tranfer case to the 4L60E.
Anyone here REALLY familiar with the differences/similarities of the 4L30E and 4L60E? My only concern there is whether or not I can just use the tailshaft adaptor from the 4L30E transmission, bolt it to the 4L60E and then bolt the transfer case to it. I know they both have 27 spline input/ouput shafts, so it should connect fine there... but not sure that the 4L30E has the same "six bolt round" bolt patter where the tail shaft snout bolts on. Anyone know?
I have a master welder lined up to do the motor mount fabrication so the actual, physical installing is or should be fairly simple. Hopefully, I can get the transfer case back where it was so I don't need to adjust prop shaft lengths... but that remains to be seen.
My next hurdle is the wiring harness. I know that Painless makes a retro harness for $499 to put the motor in whatever, but I hope to reuse the factory Z28 harness. Anyone know where I can find a pin-by-pin list of each wire for the computer on the camaro? If so, please post it or email it to me at rreed17@kc.rr.com . Thanks!
I hope to get this together in a relatively decent time frame... I'm sure I'll have plenty of hangups, but I'm sure the job can be done. I have no doubt that the final outcome will be nothing less that KICK @$$! Again... any info that anyone can provide would be great! Thanks in advance.
TTYL!
I am in the terrible position that my current vehicle has spun a rod bearing and my extended warranty company has basically told me that I have abused and neglected my motor, therefore they aren't going to cover ANY of it. This is even after knowing that the motor in question has had a history of oiling problems and rod bearing problems that rear their ugly heads are 60K-70K miles... mine being at 73K miles, is a prime candidate. Well... its done.
I guess you might be wondering what the conversion is in, right? Ok, well... it's an Isuzu Vehicross! In case you don't know what it is... check my link in the sig... the thing is like none other... only made for three years and around 4200 units (give or take). The thing gets around KICK @$$ off road and so its not an option to dump the vehicle. I just like it too much.
Anyway, I have bought a complete LS1 motor with 4L60E transmission. Along with the motor/transmission, I also have the computer, harness, accessories, brackets, cat convertor and anything else that is needed. I have done some research and hope to mate my Born Warner Torque On Demand (TOD) tranfer case to the 4L60E.
Anyone here REALLY familiar with the differences/similarities of the 4L30E and 4L60E? My only concern there is whether or not I can just use the tailshaft adaptor from the 4L30E transmission, bolt it to the 4L60E and then bolt the transfer case to it. I know they both have 27 spline input/ouput shafts, so it should connect fine there... but not sure that the 4L30E has the same "six bolt round" bolt patter where the tail shaft snout bolts on. Anyone know?
I have a master welder lined up to do the motor mount fabrication so the actual, physical installing is or should be fairly simple. Hopefully, I can get the transfer case back where it was so I don't need to adjust prop shaft lengths... but that remains to be seen.
My next hurdle is the wiring harness. I know that Painless makes a retro harness for $499 to put the motor in whatever, but I hope to reuse the factory Z28 harness. Anyone know where I can find a pin-by-pin list of each wire for the computer on the camaro? If so, please post it or email it to me at rreed17@kc.rr.com . Thanks!
I hope to get this together in a relatively decent time frame... I'm sure I'll have plenty of hangups, but I'm sure the job can be done. I have no doubt that the final outcome will be nothing less that KICK @$$! Again... any info that anyone can provide would be great! Thanks in advance.
TTYL!
#2
Damn Coach, I thought you had died and gone to heaven a long time ago. It's good to know you're still alive and kicking. I don't know the answers to your questions except to suggest that a factory service manual should have your wiring diagram. Your project sounds like it will be a major sleeper. Good luck!
#3
Nope... didn't die... and most DEFINITELY didn't go to heaven! lol If anything I went straight to hell! lmao I moved back to the Kansas City area and found that I couldn't survive with an F-Body as my ONLY driver... so I had to get rid of Goldie ('98 WS6 Drop Top)! Now I'm paying dearly as I know the T/A woulda been fine mechanically! Oh well... live and learn.
If anyone has any info they want to offer... shoot! I'll be happy to listen!
TTYL!
Coach!
If anyone has any info they want to offer... shoot! I'll be happy to listen!
TTYL!
Coach!
#5
Re: LS1 conversion into the unthinkable...
Originally posted by coachreed
I am in the terrible position that my current vehicle has spun a rod bearing and my extended warranty company has basically told me that I have abused and neglected my motor, therefore they aren't going to cover ANY of it. This is even after knowing that the motor in question has had a history of oiling problems and rod bearing problems that rear their ugly heads are 60K-70K miles... mine being at 73K miles, is a prime candidate. Well... its done.
I am in the terrible position that my current vehicle has spun a rod bearing and my extended warranty company has basically told me that I have abused and neglected my motor, therefore they aren't going to cover ANY of it. This is even after knowing that the motor in question has had a history of oiling problems and rod bearing problems that rear their ugly heads are 60K-70K miles... mine being at 73K miles, is a prime candidate. Well... its done.
I've never heard of this. Can you point me to some
articles? Seems to me that nearly all that have been
maintained and not totally abused are running strong
well over 100K. Mine has 56K. If you truly believe this
to be a very common problem, why spend all that time
and money using it in the conversion? I've always kind of
like the V-Cross so good luck with it>
#6
Steve-
At least now I know I didn't shoot an email off to a total stranger... when are you gonna get an email addy allllll your own?! I catch you later... maybe one day I'll get to come down to Sarasota and visit like old times!
locosteelersfan-
I hope you don't think I'm refering to an LS1 being the problem motor... I'm definitely NOT doing that... in the three LS1 powered cars I've had, they have ALL been nothing but great! I'm talking about my crappy Isuzu motor being a lump of crapola! For such a hi-tech motor, the thing isn't worth that much... can't trust it for 75K miles... which is around three years for me! I'll go to something I know and can trust... the TRUSTY LS1!
TTYL!
At least now I know I didn't shoot an email off to a total stranger... when are you gonna get an email addy allllll your own?! I catch you later... maybe one day I'll get to come down to Sarasota and visit like old times!
locosteelersfan-
I hope you don't think I'm refering to an LS1 being the problem motor... I'm definitely NOT doing that... in the three LS1 powered cars I've had, they have ALL been nothing but great! I'm talking about my crappy Isuzu motor being a lump of crapola! For such a hi-tech motor, the thing isn't worth that much... can't trust it for 75K miles... which is around three years for me! I'll go to something I know and can trust... the TRUSTY LS1!
TTYL!
#7
If you want detailed wiring diagrams for the LS1 (for a specific year) Try out Helm Inc. for the manual. It's pricey, like $120, but I've never seen a more detailed manual for this kind of stuff. But hey, if you are doing this kind of swap, 120 bucks doesn't seem like that much. Just do a search on there web page for the Corvette/Camaro and year of your engine choice and that should pull up what you need.
#9
GoFast908Z-
Thanks for the info. I have found a link at LS1.com that I was able to access that shows pin-outs of the computer along with color codes. I appreciate the info though... THANKS!
LeadSled1-
I actually think the link I mentioned above was posted by someone over at LS1Tech.com's forum. I have been covering my grounds to find the answers... hopefully things will move along at a reasonable pace.
Thanks guys!
Thanks for the info. I have found a link at LS1.com that I was able to access that shows pin-outs of the computer along with color codes. I appreciate the info though... THANKS!
LeadSled1-
I actually think the link I mentioned above was posted by someone over at LS1Tech.com's forum. I have been covering my grounds to find the answers... hopefully things will move along at a reasonable pace.
Thanks guys!
#10
There's a company on ebay ALWAYS advertising conversions of your stock harness for aroun $250. you basically are left with 3 or 4 wires to hook up and that's it. they can even take your dash harness from the receiving vehicle and mate it the ls1 pcm harness for an added fee...that way all your gauges still work.
Might want to check into that as a lower cost alternative to Painless wiring
Might want to check into that as a lower cost alternative to Painless wiring
#11
Timberwolf-
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. I found that company in by MANY hours of researching. I have emailed them to ask for a price breakdown of what they can offer to make my conversion easier. That has been 2-3 days now... no reply yet... but I'm sure they're busy doing their thing. Anyway, IF they don't reply or can't help, I have found the pin-outs and color codes of both that I need so I can do the same... might take me a little longer, but I'll get'er done eventually.
Thanks EVERYONE for the helpful ideas.
TTYL!
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. I found that company in by MANY hours of researching. I have emailed them to ask for a price breakdown of what they can offer to make my conversion easier. That has been 2-3 days now... no reply yet... but I'm sure they're busy doing their thing. Anyway, IF they don't reply or can't help, I have found the pin-outs and color codes of both that I need so I can do the same... might take me a little longer, but I'll get'er done eventually.
Thanks EVERYONE for the helpful ideas.
TTYL!
#12
Coach,
Did you try Dynatech? He is the guy on Ebay that converts harness'.
We specialize in Jeep conversions, and are now using LS1's, and Oscar at Dynatech has converted at least 8 harness' for us. I know he is buried right now and his responce time is sometimes long but it is worth the wait, he really knows his scheit!
As far as the conversion into the "punt" car I think your problems with getting the stock motor fixed will be minor compared to what your in for with this conversion, first of all your going to have a very difficult time cooling this little monster, I would get a hold of Brian at Custom Aluminum Radiators in Kingman Arizona and ask his advise on getting a big enough radiator in the car to cool the motor, and I would concider an electric water pump (a little pricey at $500 bucks right now, since CSI has put off making one that would be afforable to the common folk like us until summer of 04 now). your next problem will be with the transmission conversion, you may have to use the Novak adapter,(we dont use them because of the clearence problems we have under the car) We use Advan ce Adapters in northern California for adapters. The Novak is shorter and the Dana 300 mounts horizonal, I dont think it will work for you because you will have to move the motor over to the driver side and shift the tail further towards the drivers side for front drive shaft clearance to the 4L60E oil pan.
Your next problem will be the overall length of the motor and transmission not giving you enough room for a drive shaft, (remember the rear of the transmission will be towards the drivers side).
The next problem will be the rear ends, we normally go with Curries in the rear and front, if budget allows, or at least the rear end to save bucks. I would not have much faith in the stock front and rear ends you have now. (truthfully I dont know what your now have front and rear end wise, but from experience most stock stuff wont handle the horsepower the LS1 will deliver.
Have you verified that the motor will fit in the motor compartment?
Dont want to sound negitive, but hopfully this will help you look at the whole picture before you proceed.
Did you try Dynatech? He is the guy on Ebay that converts harness'.
We specialize in Jeep conversions, and are now using LS1's, and Oscar at Dynatech has converted at least 8 harness' for us. I know he is buried right now and his responce time is sometimes long but it is worth the wait, he really knows his scheit!
As far as the conversion into the "punt" car I think your problems with getting the stock motor fixed will be minor compared to what your in for with this conversion, first of all your going to have a very difficult time cooling this little monster, I would get a hold of Brian at Custom Aluminum Radiators in Kingman Arizona and ask his advise on getting a big enough radiator in the car to cool the motor, and I would concider an electric water pump (a little pricey at $500 bucks right now, since CSI has put off making one that would be afforable to the common folk like us until summer of 04 now). your next problem will be with the transmission conversion, you may have to use the Novak adapter,(we dont use them because of the clearence problems we have under the car) We use Advan ce Adapters in northern California for adapters. The Novak is shorter and the Dana 300 mounts horizonal, I dont think it will work for you because you will have to move the motor over to the driver side and shift the tail further towards the drivers side for front drive shaft clearance to the 4L60E oil pan.
Your next problem will be the overall length of the motor and transmission not giving you enough room for a drive shaft, (remember the rear of the transmission will be towards the drivers side).
The next problem will be the rear ends, we normally go with Curries in the rear and front, if budget allows, or at least the rear end to save bucks. I would not have much faith in the stock front and rear ends you have now. (truthfully I dont know what your now have front and rear end wise, but from experience most stock stuff wont handle the horsepower the LS1 will deliver.
Have you verified that the motor will fit in the motor compartment?
Dont want to sound negitive, but hopfully this will help you look at the whole picture before you proceed.
#13
thebigdog-
Thanks for the GREAT reply. Lots of good information and thought. First off, I have sent email to the guy on eBay who does the harness modifications. Its been 3-4 days... maybe 5 days... since I have sent mail... I haven't heard back, but I'm sure he is busy and so I can be patient.
I had spent lots of time brainstorming about the adventure I am embarking on right now... and NO I do'nt think its gonna be easy. I however think it can be done. Space will be tight... but physically the motor will fit... at this point, my question of fitment physically into the engine bay comes with the clearance of the front axle (independeant front susupension)... but I have plans to lower the axle housing to compensate for my torsion bar cranking I did awhile back... that will give me 2-3 inches of extra added clearance. That lowering might help (maybe not enough) a little with front prop shaft clearance... then again its been awhile since I have looked at JUST how far out to the passenger side the pan protrudes. One hurddle at a time though.
The queston of the tailshaft being pushed to the rear... no problem... driveshafts and propshafts can be custom lengthened. I don't see that as an issue... nothing that throwing a little money at won't fix.
Cooling... thats an issue that I have done some thinking on but havne't come up with the answers on. To start with, in order to squeeze the motor in, I have been thinking I will need to drop the clutch fan... and go with a front mounted electric unit. Again... throw money at it... but the radiator... yes, I need an option. I will give your guy a call next week.
I have talked to Rob at Advanced Adaptors with no luck. He suggested an inermediate plate to mount the two different beasts together. I will look at that route early next week.
Anyway, I think I addressed everything... again, I REALL appeciate the input. It takes the thoughts of many minds to get through crazy things like that. If you don't mind, I might drop you an email directly and chat about it... if thats a problem... well, just let me know. Oh, and BTW, what is the "punt" car comment about? What does that mean?
TTYL!
Thanks for the GREAT reply. Lots of good information and thought. First off, I have sent email to the guy on eBay who does the harness modifications. Its been 3-4 days... maybe 5 days... since I have sent mail... I haven't heard back, but I'm sure he is busy and so I can be patient.
I had spent lots of time brainstorming about the adventure I am embarking on right now... and NO I do'nt think its gonna be easy. I however think it can be done. Space will be tight... but physically the motor will fit... at this point, my question of fitment physically into the engine bay comes with the clearance of the front axle (independeant front susupension)... but I have plans to lower the axle housing to compensate for my torsion bar cranking I did awhile back... that will give me 2-3 inches of extra added clearance. That lowering might help (maybe not enough) a little with front prop shaft clearance... then again its been awhile since I have looked at JUST how far out to the passenger side the pan protrudes. One hurddle at a time though.
The queston of the tailshaft being pushed to the rear... no problem... driveshafts and propshafts can be custom lengthened. I don't see that as an issue... nothing that throwing a little money at won't fix.
Cooling... thats an issue that I have done some thinking on but havne't come up with the answers on. To start with, in order to squeeze the motor in, I have been thinking I will need to drop the clutch fan... and go with a front mounted electric unit. Again... throw money at it... but the radiator... yes, I need an option. I will give your guy a call next week.
I have talked to Rob at Advanced Adaptors with no luck. He suggested an inermediate plate to mount the two different beasts together. I will look at that route early next week.
Anyway, I think I addressed everything... again, I REALL appeciate the input. It takes the thoughts of many minds to get through crazy things like that. If you don't mind, I might drop you an email directly and chat about it... if thats a problem... well, just let me know. Oh, and BTW, what is the "punt" car comment about? What does that mean?
TTYL!