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meziere EWP install...tips for Fbody..

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Old 12-16-2008 | 12:10 PM
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From: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
meziere EWP install...tips for Fbody..

just got done installing my Mez pump by using the ls1howto.com site.

the guide was very good, but i do have some corrections and tips to add. i emailed the guys at the site, but have not heard back.


wiring:

they say to pull the front fuse block and locate the large pink wire in under the Ignition fuse. but then they mention that when you "test" the wiring that it should be hot for a few seconds then turn off. which is NOT correct. tapping into the IGN line means that wire is hot when the key is on.

i assume they just converted the directions over from a corvette guide...and the wiring is a little different.

so, while this wire works, it means that your pump will be running any time you have the Ignition on. which isn't a big deal unless you spend alot of time sitting there with the engine off, but the key on. could be an issue if you do alot of tuning.
simple fix for something like that is to just unplug the pump under the hood. my plug is easy to access.

i assume you could just tap into the fuel pump fuse, which would only be hot for a few seconds to prime the pump.



pump installation:

[quoted from ls1howto.com]
"The bottom drivers side bolt will require a 10mm wrench (socket wrench HIGHLY recommended here) to loosen, and it will not be able to be totally removed from the hole as a pulley is in the way...this is ok."

this is true...
however if you take a 15mm socket and remove the pulley bolt, it simply comes off with zero effort. nothing fancy. that allows ample room to remove the lower bolt. and also gives a bit more room to slide the new pump back in, as well as the associated bolt.




sofar the car runs really good. can't say i notice the small increase in power. but subjectively it DOES seem to rev faster. similar to putting an underdrive pulley on.
only noticable drawback sofar is that it really takes a while to warm up now.

with the small bypass holes in the thermostat, it seems to flow enough to slow the warm up down. but i'm in florida...and a cold day is 60* so i'm not worried.
Old 12-18-2008 | 07:20 AM
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Why'd you get that?
Old 12-18-2008 | 08:34 AM
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had a discount coupon through summit...or was it jegs?

was something i could easily do in my condo parking lot (they are bitchy about working on cars).

not to mention the car will run cooler in florida heat and more importantly....add a few extra hp.


not everyone can build cars the way you do K

some of us LIKE doing simple bolt ons, especially considering i don't have the funds or access to tuning required to do something drastic like heads. let alone the experience or local help.
i'm 3+ hours from the nearest tuner.

Last edited by teke184; 12-18-2008 at 08:38 AM.
Old 12-18-2008 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by teke184
had a discount coupon through summit...or was it jegs?

was something i could easily do in my condo parking lot (they are bitchy about working on cars).

not to mention the car will run cooler in florida heat and more importantly....add a few extra hp.


not everyone can build cars the way you do K

some of us LIKE doing simple bolt ons, especially considering i don't have the funds or access to tuning required to do something drastic like heads. let alone the experience or local help.
i'm 3+ hours from the nearest tuner.
I was just wondering why you spent $400-500 for 7 rwhp.

Mike
Old 12-18-2008 | 05:39 PM
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because i wanted to...

i'm running out of ideas as far as power goes....without doing heads.

and when i'm done, and FINALLY get heads...i'll have a nasty full bolton h/c car.
Old 12-21-2008 | 09:36 PM
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Heads or intake or both would be next
Old 12-23-2008 | 07:23 AM
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Might have missed it didnt read through the who passage what did the whole job take you time wise.
Old 12-30-2008 | 09:13 AM
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teke184's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Kraest
Heads or intake or both would be next

funny you say that....mildly ported FAST 90/90 is sitting on my floor

as for heads....thats gonna be a while!!! gonna end up doing a GOOD tune before i get them. just don't have the $$ to do heads in today's economy.



"Might have missed it didnt read through the who passage what did the whole job take you time wise."

i did it in 2 sessions, wiring first then the pump install. taking my time, and being by myself i would say it took about 3hrs total. i'm not a wiring guru, and it took some time to get them all routed, zip-tied and connected so it looked good.
the pump itself was really easy. removing that lower pulley made everything MUCH easier.



"I was just wondering why you spent $400-500 for 7 rwhp."

first i would say 7hp is on the low side, i would say it should free up more like 10hp. the ewp on the LT1s was pretty proven 8-10hp.

but anyway...

people spend almost $2000 on heads and gain 30hp, granted some gain more. but that $2000 includes all hardware, gaskets, heads, and misc items.

2000/30 = $66.7 per hp
$600/8.5 (average of 7-10)= $70.6

so its not rediculous
Old 12-31-2008 | 11:06 AM
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One thought about wiring your water pump is that if you hook it to ignition, it will run when ever the key is on. That is fine if that is what you want. I ran a relay off the fuel pump relay so that it would run whenever the car was actually running. That way it will not sit there and run whenever you are just working on the car with the ignition switched on (I did this mostly for times when I am flashing the pcm or working on some other wiring project). So if you do that, it will run for a few seconds when the fuel pump is priming, then not run until the car is running. I also added a switch to override that for cases when I do want to run it with the engine turned off. The switch can turn the pump on, but not turn it off.
Now, you could do almost the same thing by pulling the fuse when you dont want it to run, but you best not forget to put it back in there.
Old 01-05-2009 | 07:59 AM
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yeah that was the issue i ran into with the install instructions on LS1howto.

they instructed to use the large pink wire, and described how to locate it.

they indicated that it WAS the fuel pump wire....but it WASN'T...it was the ignition.

didn't really dawn on me till i had it all wired up.

i don't do any tuning myself, so i'm not hugely concerned right now. possibly next time i'm under the hood (FAST going in soon ) i'll rewire the 12v source.

i have no doubt it would suck the battery dry pretty quick though
Old 01-05-2009 | 09:10 PM
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Hey Jeff , I haven't been on here in a while . I'm glad you started putting some of those new parts on . Now put that intake and TB on and let me know how well it runs afterward , I'll bet you notice a big difference with that cam you are running . My car goes back to the tuner on 1-19-2009 to fix the idle issues . Hopefully all goes well for the both of us .
Old 01-07-2009 | 08:59 AM
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yeah i know i need to get that intake on.

i'm excited about it, didn't know it at the time of purchase but its been mildly ported by LPE.
don't think its a full on port job, but it should help it flow a little better.

now i just need those heads
Old 01-20-2009 | 07:26 AM
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going to the tuner in a few weeks.

while i've had other mods since the last dyno tune, i'm hoping for a nice increase with the pump added in there.

i'll keep you posted.
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