I recently picked up a rock stock '02 m6 Z with 57k miles. This is an everyday driver, silver with custom SS stripes and t tops. The only mods are the cross bar in the engine compartment and a chassie strengthening bar on the frame.

Wanted to get some fresh opinions before I start on her.

What plugs are the best bet?

How about wires?

It has a K&N on it, how about the air box lid? worth the time and effort?

Car has that stupid skip shift, I've seen something that plugs in the wireing that disables it. Anyone had any experience with this?

This car was purchased new buy an old car guy like me and the clutch seems sound, but it has 57K miles on it so it is going to be next on the update list.

How about headers. This is going to be an everyday driver and here in Houston the summer heat is oppressive, how do headers perform on a 100 degree day in bumper to bumper traffic? Do they make the cabin hotter?

The car has been running Mob1 since new, what weight in summer and winter?

Any other input would be great.

Thanks!

 

Regular Ac Delco or NGK plugs.

Stock wires.

Leave the K&N on.

Buy it and plug it in.

Stock 01+ clutches with stock power go 100+k easily.

Pacesetter Longtubes. Best header for the money. Tons more power and no.. they don't heat up the cabin.

Mobil-1 5w30 all year long.

 

As far as headers and the Houston heat, I really think headers make your engine run cooler by getting the heat away from the engine much more efficiently and they move the cat farther back away from the rest of the motor. My car is black so it can take a while to cool down on really hot sunny days in city traffic, but putting shades on the t-tops really helps a lot. I pretty much put them on in May and they are there until the first cold front in October.

One thing about headers is you will get codes which since you live in Houston will cause you to fail emissions test. My car intermittently has rear O2 low voltage and catalyst efficiency codes. They are not there all the time so as long as you get inspected when your light is off you will pass (even with history or pending codes you still pass they just don't allow active codes). Other option is to have them tuned out which is also a good performance mod (maybe 15-25 hp). I haven't had a tune yet so others can speak to that more than myself.

Skip shift delete is the first thing you should do, it is super annoying and I think its a safety hazard having it lock you out of a gear you expect to be able to go in. Air box lid is easy to change and is supposed to be good for 10hp or so, hard to feel but the throttle response seems a little quicker with it.

I run Mobil 1 5w30 in all my cars all year long in Houston. Never had any reason to run anything different.

 

Or the new Delco Iridiums

agreed

plus add a lid it's a worthwhile mod

or search out the resistance and make your own like I did 11 years ago for our SS. Total cost, 4pack of resistors for a dollar and some electrical tape.

agreed

Just make sure that they are the coated ones. They actually make the underhood cooler than stock. Then get some O2 simulators for the aftercat sensors.

Any good quality 5w-30 full sunthetic year round.

 

Tuning the rear 02s out will have no effect on performance... Just codes. You can turn the codes off completely, which is why that works great for using long-tube headers in places that do a computer check instead of a visual.

The guy who bought my 408 Vette had no problem passing emissions in AZ with it.

 

That is true; I guess I wasn't clear. I was assuming when he got a performance tune he'd get the codes turned off at the same time.

Also, when I went in for the inspection, they did a visual to verify that I did in fact have cats, so you'll want to have them (you car will stink anyway without them - you'll get sick of smelling like you just mowed the lawn after you drive it).