to be, or not to be?
#16
Re: to be, or not to be?
first off I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their thoughts. It was helpful and prompt.
However, I don't see how this car is not rare and here's why-
in 1998 there were only 2,498 camaro z28 convertibles made, out of those only 383 where black, even less with automatic transmissions. I've had this car for 10 years and have only seen 1 other like it but it was a manual trans. People generally consider a 67 camaro to be a rare car but I'd bet there's a lot more of those out there now even with matching numbers. Keep in mind there were over 10,000 Lamborghini Gallardos sold. And how often do you see those? Statistically, for every one of my cars, you'll see about 30 Lamborghini Gallardos. So, if you considrer a Lambo to be a rare sighting, then you would have to agree that this car is extremely rare and hard to come by.
However, I don't see how this car is not rare and here's why-
in 1998 there were only 2,498 camaro z28 convertibles made, out of those only 383 where black, even less with automatic transmissions. I've had this car for 10 years and have only seen 1 other like it but it was a manual trans. People generally consider a 67 camaro to be a rare car but I'd bet there's a lot more of those out there now even with matching numbers. Keep in mind there were over 10,000 Lamborghini Gallardos sold. And how often do you see those? Statistically, for every one of my cars, you'll see about 30 Lamborghini Gallardos. So, if you considrer a Lambo to be a rare sighting, then you would have to agree that this car is extremely rare and hard to come by.
Last edited by cars3; 05-02-2011 at 12:13 AM.
#17
Re: to be, or not to be?
Why? It's an auto car. A junkyard or take out 3.42 rear will be way cheaper and probably work well deep into the 11s on sticky tires and hold up to more power than that entails with street tires on it.
#19
Re: to be, or not to be?
Who installs twin turbos and sticky tires on an LS1 and then only runs 11s?
#20
Re: to be, or not to be?
Not starting a pissing match; but what does this have to do with the original topic? Or any reply in the thread for that matter?
Im willing to have a reasonable discussion as to why I like a lot of horsepower in my street car. To back my choices to keep it a street car; and not go for all-out ET's at the track in a car w/o a rollbar.
Plus, its harder than you think to run sub 11.0's in a manual trans car that traps close to 131 in the 1/4 - on a tire that only yields 1.9x 60's AT 3900 lbs.
and to further answer as to why I chose to do that, its fun racing bikes and all out drag cars that think my lowly streetcar isn't fast. Especially when its a big block mopar w a 10 point cage and a unitire on the back ; and then I beat him from 30-110+ .
#21
Re: to be, or not to be?
I did. well, if you count nitto drags as sticky tires.
Not starting a pissing match; but what does this have to do with the original topic? Or any reply in the thread for that matter?
Im willing to have a reasonable discussion as to why I like a lot of horsepower in my street car. To back my choices to keep it a street car; and not go for all-out ET's at the track in a car w/o a rollbar.
Plus, its harder than you think to run sub 11.0's in a manual trans car that traps close to 131 in the 1/4 - on a tire that only yields 1.9x 60's AT 3900 lbs.
and to further answer as to why I chose to do that, its fun racing bikes and all out drag cars that think my lowly streetcar isn't fast. Especially when its a big block mopar w a 10 point cage and a unitire on the back ; and then I beat him from 30-110+ .
Not starting a pissing match; but what does this have to do with the original topic? Or any reply in the thread for that matter?
Im willing to have a reasonable discussion as to why I like a lot of horsepower in my street car. To back my choices to keep it a street car; and not go for all-out ET's at the track in a car w/o a rollbar.
Plus, its harder than you think to run sub 11.0's in a manual trans car that traps close to 131 in the 1/4 - on a tire that only yields 1.9x 60's AT 3900 lbs.
and to further answer as to why I chose to do that, its fun racing bikes and all out drag cars that think my lowly streetcar isn't fast. Especially when its a big block mopar w a 10 point cage and a unitire on the back ; and then I beat him from 30-110+ .
But, like you said, this thread isn't about a pissing match; it's about helping the original poster set up his Z28 the way he wants it.
I still think he should consider a stronger rear. He can buy a junkyard rear, then spend $500 on parts to make it strong(er) and safer (girdle, gears, C-clip eliminators), and then put in the time to set the rear up correctly (or pay more for somebody else to do it), and he'll still have a rear that might break someday under lots of power, even on the street behind an auto. Or, he could spend some extra money (yes, it's quite a bit extra at $2000-2500) and have the peace of mind of knowing that his rear end is simply not going to break.
#22
Re: to be, or not to be?
but Al doesn't have twin turbo's. or am I missing something?
and back on topic. I agree with both of you. there is a fine line where it makes sense to replace the stock rear. My opinion is that if your not going to drag race it often, and not going to run more than a nitto drag type tire (et street radials not included); keep the stocker for cost savings.
At a point where you do more than bolt on's. IE heads/cam, then replace it with a beefier rear. Full bolt on's and a cam, IE near 400 rwhp; do the upgrade as well.
Pretty much 300-350 rwhp the stocker will probably live (in an auto). 375+ or the previous hp level and a drag tire and lots of track time; and it wont.
as for is it a rare car? possibly. desireable... not so much. individual options and a color dont make it a great car to keep stock. do what you want to it, and enjoy. they made LOTS of of 4th gen verts. the most desireable and or possibly valuable will be the specialty cars, and then maybe 02's, 97's, or 93's. for last, last of the non fish eye fe, and the 1st 4th's.
and back on topic. I agree with both of you. there is a fine line where it makes sense to replace the stock rear. My opinion is that if your not going to drag race it often, and not going to run more than a nitto drag type tire (et street radials not included); keep the stocker for cost savings.
At a point where you do more than bolt on's. IE heads/cam, then replace it with a beefier rear. Full bolt on's and a cam, IE near 400 rwhp; do the upgrade as well.
Pretty much 300-350 rwhp the stocker will probably live (in an auto). 375+ or the previous hp level and a drag tire and lots of track time; and it wont.
as for is it a rare car? possibly. desireable... not so much. individual options and a color dont make it a great car to keep stock. do what you want to it, and enjoy. they made LOTS of of 4th gen verts. the most desireable and or possibly valuable will be the specialty cars, and then maybe 02's, 97's, or 93's. for last, last of the non fish eye fe, and the 1st 4th's.
Last edited by rod442; 05-06-2011 at 04:27 AM.
#24
#25
Re: to be, or not to be?
I don't know about you, but I don't see how a 3900lb F-body with a 6 speed trans, no rollbar/cage, and on a Nitto qualifies as a dedicated drag car - as you put it.
#26
Re: to be, or not to be?
damn didnt realize our cars were that heavy!! last time I checked it was in the 35-3600 lbs area...any ways Z28 vert...not rare from 93-02...The only rare 98-02 F-bods IMO are really the intimidators and Dick Darrell cars......
#27
Re: to be, or not to be?
That 3900lbs is with a twin turbo kit installed. That, and he most likely included the driver weight. It's vehicle raceweight. Still somewhat heavy considering it's a Formula.
#28
Re: to be, or not to be?
3900 is with me in it, and IIRC about 1/3 tank. I weigh 200.
most 4th gen f-bods Ive seen on the scales weigh between about 3380 for a stripper ls1 z28(lightest) , to probably close to 3600 for a WS6 T/A vert, auto (heaviest).
and yes, on my car; thats with the added weight of the turbo kit, 12 bolt rear, subframe connectors, 3" DS, and all the other beefed up suspension parts. LCA's, panhard bar, strut tower brace, DS loop etc.
another thing, there may be some confusion. Al's car IS pretty much a dedicated drag car. Its a heads-cam, stock shortblock vehicle. Mine is not. there are 2 different vehicles being mentioned here, I think.
most 4th gen f-bods Ive seen on the scales weigh between about 3380 for a stripper ls1 z28(lightest) , to probably close to 3600 for a WS6 T/A vert, auto (heaviest).
and yes, on my car; thats with the added weight of the turbo kit, 12 bolt rear, subframe connectors, 3" DS, and all the other beefed up suspension parts. LCA's, panhard bar, strut tower brace, DS loop etc.
another thing, there may be some confusion. Al's car IS pretty much a dedicated drag car. Its a heads-cam, stock shortblock vehicle. Mine is not. there are 2 different vehicles being mentioned here, I think.
#29
Re: to be, or not to be?
bah ok...well to the OP you car is not rare....even if it was...its just a Z it will not hold too much of a collector value..maybe sentimental but thats as far as you will probably get...Look for rare in Tom Henry's Chevrolet cars..(GMMG cars), B4C, 1LE, Pace cars...probably more but thats all I can think of..
#30
Re: to be, or not to be?
Well damn I guess I stand corrected, my car isn't as rare as I thought. But it is the only one with flux capasitor in it that produces 1.21 jiggawatts @ 88 mph.
I like the idea of a 12 bolt. Anything that won't crumble when I punch it. This will be my 3rd rear in 2 years and I'm just sick of em breaking. I'm not too unhappy with the gear ratio that's in it, (maybe that's cause that's all I know) but when an all wheel drive car launches past me at the start and then when they have to shift I pass em out cause I don't have to that's should stand for sumthin. I kinda like that it only has to shift once to hit almost 100. What I'd really like to know is what 2nd or 3rd in an auto would top out at with 3.42s or 3.73s or 4.10s....it's the answer to those that will help me make a decision.
I like the idea of a 12 bolt. Anything that won't crumble when I punch it. This will be my 3rd rear in 2 years and I'm just sick of em breaking. I'm not too unhappy with the gear ratio that's in it, (maybe that's cause that's all I know) but when an all wheel drive car launches past me at the start and then when they have to shift I pass em out cause I don't have to that's should stand for sumthin. I kinda like that it only has to shift once to hit almost 100. What I'd really like to know is what 2nd or 3rd in an auto would top out at with 3.42s or 3.73s or 4.10s....it's the answer to those that will help me make a decision.