Ok, my Rev Limiter left made me feel like a smuck? How far can i raise it?
#16
Couple things I've always heard.
Never shift an auto when moving. It's shorten the life of the tranny and is VERY BAD!
Second leave the rev limiter at stock (6200?) Raising it w/o a beefed up valve train can ruin the motor. Work with the shift points not the rev limiter.
Ask around this is what mechanically inclined people have told me
------------------
2000 Z28-Deep Maroon
Mac Headers With Off-Road Pipe
Vigilante Torque Converter 2800 stall 2.5 STR
Hooker 3" catback w/cut out & McCord
FTRA Kit
Dynamic Motorsports SFC's
Never shift an auto when moving. It's shorten the life of the tranny and is VERY BAD!
Second leave the rev limiter at stock (6200?) Raising it w/o a beefed up valve train can ruin the motor. Work with the shift points not the rev limiter.
Ask around this is what mechanically inclined people have told me
------------------
2000 Z28-Deep Maroon
Mac Headers With Off-Road Pipe
Vigilante Torque Converter 2800 stall 2.5 STR
Hooker 3" catback w/cut out & McCord
FTRA Kit
Dynamic Motorsports SFC's
#17
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Brian Wheeler:
Why in the hell would you manually shift an auto???
If you want to shift gears get a 6 speed.
</font>
Why in the hell would you manually shift an auto???
If you want to shift gears get a 6 speed.
</font>
I used to race a lot a 5 speed Mustangs from a roll, if I just left it in Drive they would jump ahead when the tranny was down shifting and I had to play catch up.
Then I tried manually down shifting it to 2nd and the rpm's stayed around 3000, we hit I I'd pull them right away.
Try it, be for you say anything else race someone and try both ways.
I'm not say when your going 40 slam it in to 2nd, just slow down put it into 2nd get next to the car your going to race and hit it.
#18
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bull_in_a_china_shop:
Second leave the rev limiter at stock (6200?) Raising it w/o a beefed up valve train can ruin the motor. Work with the shift points not the rev limiter.
Ask around this is what mechanically inclined people have told me
</font>
Second leave the rev limiter at stock (6200?) Raising it w/o a beefed up valve train can ruin the motor. Work with the shift points not the rev limiter.
Ask around this is what mechanically inclined people have told me
</font>
Double Pressing, i have found some form of that to work. I have a 3.42 ratio corrected with the HPP3 so my down shift points and sweet spots are different from a 2.73ed equipped Fbody and i cant say how different it is from the 3.23ed equipped Fbodies becaus i havent driven one.. But my sweet spots and shift points changed with the programming. This may not work for you guys with a different ratio, it may work better or worse. But i found if im going 50mph, i can push the pedal halfway and hold it for a split second and then shift to second manually and floor it at the same time, when the pedal touches metal the back end will brake lose and slightly go sideways and then hook and it HALLS AZZ. Thats AWSOME to do.
At the speeds of 47-60mph it will shift to second on its own as well, still shoot off like a rocket but i dont get enough power to brake the back end loose... Above 60mph, it wont down shift on its own and it feels slower, and at certain speeds it just wont down shift. If i could get something to make it down shift to 1st or seond everytime i floored it i would be VERY happy....
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
[This message has been edited by KamaroL98 (edited June 12, 2002).]
#19
"Ok. This is complete
The regular C5 has and has always had the rev limiter set at 6200 rpm. The Z06 with its LS6 engine and completely different cam and valvetrain has a redline of 6500 rpm. Where this nitwit got his 6400 rpm redline information from is beyond me, but the bottom line is that it's fantasy.
Also, during the five year life of the LS1, the C5 Corvette did, at times, have a slightly different cam than the F-body. However, the rev limiter/redline has never varied. It's always and is 6200 rpm."
This is off another board from a VERY reputable source. Don't f*** up your car for no good reason!
The regular C5 has and has always had the rev limiter set at 6200 rpm. The Z06 with its LS6 engine and completely different cam and valvetrain has a redline of 6500 rpm. Where this nitwit got his 6400 rpm redline information from is beyond me, but the bottom line is that it's fantasy.
Also, during the five year life of the LS1, the C5 Corvette did, at times, have a slightly different cam than the F-body. However, the rev limiter/redline has never varied. It's always and is 6200 rpm."
This is off another board from a VERY reputable source. Don't f*** up your car for no good reason!
#20
In the hypertech manual, it says the stock rev limit is 6400 for LS1 corvettes....
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
#21
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KamaroL98:
In the hypertech manual, it says the stock rev limit is 6400 for LS1 corvettes....
</font>
In the hypertech manual, it says the stock rev limit is 6400 for LS1 corvettes....
</font>
#22
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Drew778/94Z:
Have you tried racing from a roll
I used to race a lot a 5 speed Mustangs from a roll, if I just left it in Drive they would jump ahead when the tranny was down shifting and I had to play catch up.
Then I tried manually down shifting it to 2nd and the rpm's stayed around 3000, we hit I I'd pull them right away.
Try it, be for you say anything else race someone and try both ways.
I'm not say when your going 40 slam it in to 2nd, just slow down put it into 2nd get next to the car your going to race and hit it.
</font>
Have you tried racing from a roll
I used to race a lot a 5 speed Mustangs from a roll, if I just left it in Drive they would jump ahead when the tranny was down shifting and I had to play catch up.
Then I tried manually down shifting it to 2nd and the rpm's stayed around 3000, we hit I I'd pull them right away.
Try it, be for you say anything else race someone and try both ways.
I'm not say when your going 40 slam it in to 2nd, just slow down put it into 2nd get next to the car your going to race and hit it.
</font>
------------------
1999 Red Z28 M6
Hurst, Direct Flo Lid, 3 inch cutout, Flowmaster muffler
More mods on the way
#24
you can't beat A4 for racing. I have an M6 and don't really race but have driven A4's. it really depends on the driver, like if a driver with an A4 is fooling around shifting then he will get beat by a M6.
#25
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by z28rktec:
I don't know about you other A4 guys, but this "A4's are crap" attitude pisses me off!</font>
I don't know about you other A4 guys, but this "A4's are crap" attitude pisses me off!</font>
Think you can keep up with my adjusted shift points, and 4.10s? (again, evil laugh: MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHA)
....but to reply to this post, I've heard its really bad to shift your tranny. Not so much as in upshifting, but you really shorten the life during the downshifting the auto. Just get a HPP and play with the shift points, and shift firmness. It will do the same thing, but not hurt your tranny as bad as shifting it.
Milo
#26
I havent had an M6 Fbody beat me in a race that started from a dead stop yet. Or in a few cases a 20mph roll where i actually manually shifted. My hypertech has my LS1 down shift itself alot more then it did with the GM tuneing. I think from a roll, the M6 may have an advantage but it will be a 'close' race. The only way a 6speed will really win is if they were going from a roll from a speed where the tranny dosent down shift.... Also take into consideration alot of A4 LS1s come with the 2.73 gears which arent to great and M6s come with 3.23s and 3.42s........
However, an M6 wouldnt stand a chance against an A4 equipped with a stall....
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
However, an M6 wouldnt stand a chance against an A4 equipped with a stall....
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
#27
Here is what i current set everything at with the hypertech...
Rev Limiter- Stock 6200
Shift firmness- 50%
Fans- Fans come on at 195
Rear axle- 3.42s GU6 (the most important)
Speed Limiter- Stops at 166mph. (I can remove it all together if i wish.)
After i get in touch with someone who knows what they are doing, i want to change my shift points..
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
Rev Limiter- Stock 6200
Shift firmness- 50%
Fans- Fans come on at 195
Rear axle- 3.42s GU6 (the most important)
Speed Limiter- Stops at 166mph. (I can remove it all together if i wish.)
After i get in touch with someone who knows what they are doing, i want to change my shift points..
------------------
Arctic White 1998 Z28 Camaro LS1 A4 3.42s
Lid, Exhaust, Gears.
5% tint and black outs..
301.3rwhp
311.0torque
#28
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Brian Wheeler:
I wouldn't be racing from a roll with an automatic car in the first place.. You'll get murdered by a 6 speed from a roll regardless of what gear you're in..
</font>
I wouldn't be racing from a roll with an automatic car in the first place.. You'll get murdered by a 6 speed from a roll regardless of what gear you're in..
</font>
I have a 2.73 geared '01 Z28 (stock stall)and a '00 6-speed SS. My Z28 with the same mods eats the SS at any speed under 100 from a roll. Not all autos are slow from a roll, my Z28 just turned a new best trap speed of 111.23 mph last Saturday in 85 degree heat.
------------------
2001 Pewter Camaro Z28 A4 with 2.73 gears: $187 in mods: 12.59 @ 109.7mph w/ 1.92 on stock Eagle Ga's
Best MPH: 110.4
2000 Pewter Camaro SS M6: Basic bolt-ons. Best ET: 13.26
Best MPH: 109
1999 Yamaha R1: Mig Carbon pipe, undertail kit.
#29
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bull_in_a_china_shop:
Couple things I've always heard.
Never shift an auto when moving. It's shorten the life of the tranny and is VERY BAD!
</font>
Couple things I've always heard.
Never shift an auto when moving. It's shorten the life of the tranny and is VERY BAD!
</font>
I mean, lets say it is in OD driving 30. The A4 decides to run in 3rd. I switch it to D and it still stays in 3rd. Is that bad?
Or, how about this. Lets say it is in OD driving 50. I floor it, it downshifts (on its own) to 3rd. I switch it to D and it still stays in 3rd.
I'm just trying to understand what the problem here is. Is it the input from the lever to the tranny, or the actual shift.
Ivo
------------------
Red 2000 Z28, A4, T-tops.
BMR STB, SLP SFC, V1, Potenza RE 730