I was reading on aftermarket panhard arm here and it says it will reduce wheelspin.Now to me the arm might be a little lighter but isnt it all about the energy suspension bushings???Is it really worth it to replace the whole arm or just swap the stock rubber bushing to energy bushings?

 

no idea how it would help wheelspin...since all it does is positively locate the axle from side to side...

but in cornering it helps. the stamped steel piece flexes alot compared to the tubular aftermarket pieces. and the bushings help alot as well

for $90 from BMR how can you go wrong?

 

i tossed in a set of 4.10 and stilll get a little bit of spin on start i was told to just change panhard arm or the bushings and that should plant it on the ground

 

when I got one I felt a difference.. and that was AFTER LCA's! so I say yes its in part to the siffer tubular constuction and the poly bushings

 

Panhard bar has zero effect on straight line traction.

 

The stock panhard rod doesn't "flex a lot"... the stock bushings probably deflect 20X more than the stamped steel channel shaped piece on the cars from the factory. But its still not enough to worry about unless you are competitive road racer trying to eek out that last .01 sec per lap [or someone autocrossing with 17x11 wheels/315's or the like].

The stock bushings do deflect enough on my wife's '98 formula auto-x car with 17x11's to cause them to rub on one side under hard sustained cornering. Poly bushings would fix this, [other than the need for a shorter panhard after lowering a car]. Its just easier just to buy a tubular panhard with pre-installed poly bushings than swapping out bushings on a stock panhard.

As with 95% of the aftermarket suspension stuff offered and bought by many folks - this one is not beneficial in a measurable way, like increased cornering forces.

Drag racers and street pimps should put this "mod" way way down on their lists, as it has zero effect on straight line traction and/or easy-to-see for pimp factor. Unless..

You really only need to go to aftermarket panhard bar to compensate for lowered suspensions - when you lower the car the panhard needs to become slightly shorter to keep the same lateral location of the axle relative to the car. Seeing a picture of this effect would help, but I can't find one. Just know this: Wide rear wheels/tires with a stock panhard on a lowered car = something usually rubs.

If your F-body isn't lowered or even if it is but has stock width rear wheels/tires, don't waste your money on this mod unless you auto-x or run lapping events and need this to compensate for lateral changes and hard sustained cornering issues.

More measurable improvement in auto-x/lapping times will be had from the freshest R-compound tires [90% of everything in these two sports is the tires!], better shock valving, and a GOOD differential than anything else, as usual.

If you must have every aftermarket suspension doo-dad offered the world over, at least a tubular panhard with poly bushings can't hurt anything. Just don't use one with rod-ends [esp. the dirt cheap rod ends that come with most panhard kits] - these can and will wear out quickly on the street [rain + road grit = metal to metal surface wear], causing excessive noise and slop. Rod ends are for Race Cars.

 

You sure they didn't say torque arm. Those will have a big affect on traction off the line.

 

I have an Adjustable Hotchkis PHR with
about 1000 miles on it.
I decided not to lower the car so I put
the stocker back on.

Anyone interested email me an offer