A question for V6toZ28
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 420
From: Poway CA, where GOD and the sun always shines
A question for V6toZ28
I was reading an answer you gave another poster concerning his problem with "4.10 gears in an A4", and I would like to ask you a question concerning "shift points".
I am less than a month away from changing my A4 3.23's to 3.73, and my question is, can I just keep my transmission shifting with the stock computer settings, and still have the car drive well?
I am not really interested in any kind of 1/4 mile racing, I just want to have a more responsive car.
Thanks in advance.
SteveC
[This message has been edited by SteveC (edited September 03, 2002).]
I am less than a month away from changing my A4 3.23's to 3.73, and my question is, can I just keep my transmission shifting with the stock computer settings, and still have the car drive well?
I am not really interested in any kind of 1/4 mile racing, I just want to have a more responsive car.
Thanks in advance.
SteveC
[This message has been edited by SteveC (edited September 03, 2002).]
#3
Without a programmer of any sorts the gear swap will not be fun to drive.
The shifts will happen at all the wrong times. You need to have the computer at least updated with the proper gearing in the car for it to function well.. Shift points dont have to be changed afterwards for you to enjoy the quicker feel of the gears.
------------------
Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28
(6 sp) Bone stock
Webmaster for RaceHer.com
Check out the current polls and vote!
by the prìcking of my thumb, something wicked this way comes
-Traded in- 1995 Camaro Z28 (A4 (#6 I might add!),ES tranny mount and torque arm bushing,SLP CAI,ASP 34% Underdrive,Strange 3.73's (shredded Auburn),1LE alum driveshaft & intake elbow,Yokohamas AVS Intermediates,160-stat,MAF screen removed, HPP+(for shift points only),Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Force-II catback, Gutted Cat, Airlift Airbag, !TB Bypass, J&M LCA's, Bosch Platinums, Moroso BlueMax Wires, Free RamAir, Meziere Electric H2O pump, MAC 3point STB, BMR Panhard, SCR SFC's
Just installed:Nu-tek Heads (mild port) and Comp Cams 1.6RR's! New track and dyno #'s to follow!
best 13.44 @103.26
0-60ft 1.96
270 RWHP/296 RWTQ
0-60MPH 4.8sec
1987 Porsche 944S (waiting on LT1 mod)
The shifts will happen at all the wrong times. You need to have the computer at least updated with the proper gearing in the car for it to function well.. Shift points dont have to be changed afterwards for you to enjoy the quicker feel of the gears.
------------------
Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28
(6 sp) Bone stock
Webmaster for RaceHer.com
Check out the current polls and vote!
by the prìcking of my thumb, something wicked this way comes
-Traded in- 1995 Camaro Z28 (A4 (#6 I might add!),ES tranny mount and torque arm bushing,SLP CAI,ASP 34% Underdrive,Strange 3.73's (shredded Auburn),1LE alum driveshaft & intake elbow,Yokohamas AVS Intermediates,160-stat,MAF screen removed, HPP+(for shift points only),Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Force-II catback, Gutted Cat, Airlift Airbag, !TB Bypass, J&M LCA's, Bosch Platinums, Moroso BlueMax Wires, Free RamAir, Meziere Electric H2O pump, MAC 3point STB, BMR Panhard, SCR SFC's
Just installed:Nu-tek Heads (mild port) and Comp Cams 1.6RR's! New track and dyno #'s to follow!
best 13.44 @103.26
0-60ft 1.96
270 RWHP/296 RWTQ
0-60MPH 4.8sec
1987 Porsche 944S (waiting on LT1 mod)
#4
You will have to get some kind of programming for the gear change ... Just so your speedo will be accurate.
But as far as adjusting the actual shift points ... no that is not neccesary. For routine, even spirited driving you're really not going to notice.
It's in the 1/4 mile that your shift points start to become a factor. You want get into and stay in your peak power band as quickly and as long as possible.
Since you have no plans to do any drag racing, you may as well stay away from you adjusting your shift points. There's no real benefit to be gained and you could open yourself up to some potential issues.
Out of curosity, if you're not drag racing, why the gear change. Yeah, you're going to get a little more acceleration when you punch it on the freeway, but you'll also give up some gas milage .... or are you doing autoX or road racing?
------------------
'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.73
Mods List Here
12.12/112.81/1.70 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com
NorCal LS1/LT1
"To play it safe is not to play"
But as far as adjusting the actual shift points ... no that is not neccesary. For routine, even spirited driving you're really not going to notice.
It's in the 1/4 mile that your shift points start to become a factor. You want get into and stay in your peak power band as quickly and as long as possible.
Since you have no plans to do any drag racing, you may as well stay away from you adjusting your shift points. There's no real benefit to be gained and you could open yourself up to some potential issues.
Out of curosity, if you're not drag racing, why the gear change. Yeah, you're going to get a little more acceleration when you punch it on the freeway, but you'll also give up some gas milage .... or are you doing autoX or road racing?
------------------
'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.73
Mods List Here
12.12/112.81/1.70 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com
NorCal LS1/LT1
"To play it safe is not to play"
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 420
From: Poway CA, where GOD and the sun always shines
Gentlemen;
Please excuse me for not mentioning this in my origional post, I have already purchased the SLP speedometer recalibrater, and the pro shop will install it when they do the gears.
I do not plan to do any auto xing either, I just want to have a more responsive car when driving. I do not mind the loss of mpg, due to the fact that my Z28 is not my daily driver.
If I understand what the recalibrater does, it will change the signal going back to the PCM to the origional gear signal, which should correct the speedometer. I am hoping it will not effect the tachometer reading. Right now, I am turning 2400 rpm at 80 mph.
I believe the transmission on 2001 model cars shifts on the MPH, not the RPM, so if I understand your answers correctly, once the speedometer is recalibrated, I can just leave the shift points alone?
Thanks in advance.
SteveC
[This message has been edited by SteveC (edited September 04, 2002).]
Please excuse me for not mentioning this in my origional post, I have already purchased the SLP speedometer recalibrater, and the pro shop will install it when they do the gears.
I do not plan to do any auto xing either, I just want to have a more responsive car when driving. I do not mind the loss of mpg, due to the fact that my Z28 is not my daily driver.
If I understand what the recalibrater does, it will change the signal going back to the PCM to the origional gear signal, which should correct the speedometer. I am hoping it will not effect the tachometer reading. Right now, I am turning 2400 rpm at 80 mph.
I believe the transmission on 2001 model cars shifts on the MPH, not the RPM, so if I understand your answers correctly, once the speedometer is recalibrated, I can just leave the shift points alone?
Thanks in advance.
SteveC
[This message has been edited by SteveC (edited September 04, 2002).]
#6
First ... yes you'll be just fine the calibrator will take care of everything adn you don't need to worry about your shift points ... you'll be around 2700/800 rpm at 80 with the 3:73 gears.
Actual shift points are based on mph, rpm and the TPS ... that's why you will shift at different mphs for different gears, depending upon how much throttle your giving it. The HPP3 adjusts shift points primarly to effect the WOT operation and drag racing tuning. If I wasn't drag racing, I would have gone the same route you are with the SLP calibrator.
Good Luck
Actual shift points are based on mph, rpm and the TPS ... that's why you will shift at different mphs for different gears, depending upon how much throttle your giving it. The HPP3 adjusts shift points primarly to effect the WOT operation and drag racing tuning. If I wasn't drag racing, I would have gone the same route you are with the SLP calibrator.
Good Luck
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