THE TRUTH...THE REAL... I need to know???

Help me understand how to drive my M6 like I stole it....At the track.... I bog or boil.... I shift like grandma lifting on the load pedal between shifts....


I know I can run better.... I just need HELP and ADVISE.....

I have run bone stock SS that dyno less than my car and get schooled....@ the track...

My car make 314 rwhp and 325 torgue....to the wheels no reason not to run...low 13's....

STUNT DOUBLE.......NOW!!!

 

If you drive it like you stole it you will break it too. I wouldn't ever powershift, ruins tranmissions. Not worth it. What times are your running and what's your 60ft?

 

Try to hold your rpms when you shift, don't lift totally outta the gas but don't keep it mashed to the floor. With my car I hold the RPMS at about 5800 or so when I'm racing between shifts. With an LS1 car the T56 is a different tranny and it is more prone to breaking the tranny then an LT1 car but you should still be able to hold the rpms up. Otherwise try to not let it drop off below say 4500 either way it'll keep you from bogging and as long as the pedal isn't mashed between shifts you shouldn't boil the tires.

 

Best time is a 13.6 at 104...that was before ported ZO6 MAF. My car makes good power for a 2000 with a lid...K&N, 170 thermo, fan switch, and now ported maf....

(i do have a 75 shot also...but looking to better my NA times)

My car has been Dyno on 2 different machines... so I know it makes good power...

I jsut can't drive stick that well...

I usually run 13.9 to 13.8 burning rubber or bogging the hell out of it off the line....

TIPS... PLEASE

TIPS... on driving... I got beat by a bone stock 2001....no SLP options 13.5 @ 108 to my 13.8 @102 last week.... PISSED

 

Are you short shifting? Short shifting makes a big difference on an LS1 car.

 

The 1st thing you need to work on is eliminating as much tire spin as possible without bogging out the car. IMO, this is the hardest part. But, if you can get your 60' under 2 seconds, you're on the right path.
2nd, shifting at the track for the best time runs the possibility of something breaking. If you do decide to run all out at the track, you probably wanna shift around 6000~6100 RPMs. Just remember the stock tachometer has some lag and you want to avoid hitting the rev limiter.
3rd, get a B&M or Pro 5.0 shifter. They'll help shorten up your shifts. Then...practice, practice, practice. After a while, you'll learn the motions and be able to shift faster.
Personally, I don't powershift like most people. However, I get to the next gear before the revs naturally drop (should be fairly easy w/ aftermarket shifter). That with the combination of matting the gas pedal just as the clutch grabs works for me. It just takes some time to learn the motions...

 

I have a factory hurst... I am keeping it....

I notice my nose comes down between shifts...unlike my AUTO 3rd gen.....

Or I have a problem with shifting and feeling the *** end move about.... SOund cool...looks cool....makes me a racing fool...

I notice that when I shift my competition inch up on me... I know my skills and about a 5 out of 10....

Just need tips....


tips....


practice techniques....

 

LoL, i have a good one for ya. The truth to powershifting is I blew out my rear on the 1-2 shift by powershifting http://community.webshots.com/photo/...80567363zYvRIy , honestly I think the best way is to shift that works great and isn't totally hard on your drivetrain is when you're going to shift when you push the clutch in stay in the throttle for just a very little little bit so you're still at redline when you hit second. It's hard to get the timing right but once you do it works great, with just a stock geared bolt on lt1 the other night I had my 315 nittos dr chirping third with 3 people in the car

 

heres my video from the dyno...at the end i ran the 1/4 mile...listen to those shifts...thats what you want..

right click save as

almost sounds like an auto

 

just practice and get quicker... powershifting is the fastest... Keep the gas mashed and shift thru it... But like me ur gonna break ****, unless ur tranny and rear are redone.

 

Popular misconeption is that the tranny will blow if you powershift, this isn't true. You're rearend will blow before waaaaaaaaaaaayyyy before your trans will. There are people that are pushing 600-700rwhp through these trans's. The only thing I'd be worried about is if you shift2-3 to hard you can bend the shift fork, other than that these are pretty strong transmissions.

 

700hp to a Tremec T56????? I don't now about that, there's guys here that have problems with 400hp...surely they're built or at least the borg warner version right???

 

theres plenty of peopl with heads/cam n2o putting well over 600hp to a stock t56...they got ballz for a oem tranny

 

My bone stock 2002 would beat you.. why do you seem surprised that a 2001 would? Not like you have many mods.. Your power is similar to mine. I just make more torque..

In any case, you need more runs at the track.. dont waste time trying to learn everything at once.. Just focus on launching.. I keep my revs low... about 2000 rpm.. then when its time, I left off in a fluid motion.. Not hard and not all at once.. then I shift hard into 2nd,3rd,4th. I use the clutch all the time cause the odds of getting a solid speed shift or the damage it does is not worth the time it could possibly shave.. I do shift very fast tho.. Computer gaming has its benefits.. Fast reflexes.. hehe