I'm considering doing the EGR tube removal mod and the bumpstop mod. What do you guys think these mods are worth, I know every littl ebit helps but does anyone have any concrete evidence, dyno sheets, seat of the pants? Just wondering if its worth my time.
Thanks ahead of time for your reply.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, loudmouth
ported MAFs, Fernco,......
Currently: 1/4 13.30@114, 0-60 4.85 (w/passenger)

 

Hey man,

I am not too sure about the bump stop mod , but the egr mod makes sence to me.I did it in 10 minutes.No you are not gonna be able to tell 1 rwhp , but I couldnt force myself to leave that tube sticking down behind the throttle body blade.It is an air flow obstruction in the worst kind of way.
I fully reccomend this mod.

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1999 Z28 LS1 Camaro
A-4 with factory 2.73s,
Metallic Blue,Leather,T-Tops.
Mods...
K&N & Dynomouth exhaust set-up.
Times...
8.59 @ 84.1 mph 1/8th
13.19 @ 105.7 mph 1/4.
Dynoed 303.6 rwhp
and 327 lbft of torque.

Gone ,but not forgotten..
My 01 GT Casper 8.50s 1/8th with minor bolt ons
1997 Ram air TA 7.70s in 1/8th spraying the juice.
1996 TA 8.00s in the 1/8th on the juice.
1995 Mustang GT 9.30s in the 1/8th with bolt ons.

 

I am streeeetcchhhhhhiiiiiiinnnngggg the old memory here , but ...

I had the Bump Stop & !EGR done @ the same time, and seem to remember shaving .3 off the 1/4 !!

The bump stop really helped the car's feel - SilverSSGuy over here is nodding in agreement.

Ironically, the same guy that did this on the T/A did it for the prior owner of the SS I now have !

Question for you :

What did you think of the MAF ends ? I bought a set of Thunder Racing ones for the T/A - nice units, BTW , and wound up w/ clatter under WOT.

When I put the car back to stock (when I sold it) , I swear it ran better !

Anyway, I say go for it !!

Britt

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'99 T/A
Best 13.071 @ 104.92
Now own '99 SS # 2073 !
12.969 @ 105.44

 

My Autotap says 100% already at WOT, but in degrees it says 793, is that supposed to be 79.3?

Kinda sketchy.

 

Yeah, its unfortunate that some guys have problems doing the ported maf ends. Mine have worked great, as you can see from my times, its definately not hurting me. However, as I do more mods I'm concerned at some point I might run into trouble I'll see, if I do I'll let everyone know.
Btw, I'll be doing the egr mod this weekend.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.06@113.8 (gtech runs high in mph by about 4mph), 0-60 4.77 (w/passenger) Gtech'd
12.99@110.2, 2.06 60ft - Tazzo.

 

Atap will always read 100% anywhere near WOT. But the blade in the TB should be at close to 90 degrees for optimal flow. Mine was 81 degrees till I got it up to 88 degrees (close enough - you don't want to go over).

As for gains, honestly there's nothing to really be made from these mods. They're just small steps towards making your car a little closer to opitimum. But like you said, every bit counts. The gains would be too small to accurately measure.


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2000 Pewter SS #C161
SLP Dual-Dual, Bilstein suspension, Eibachs, 21mm/35mm swaybars, GMAF
SLP CAI w/lower plate, !EGR, Direct-Flo, SLP STB, Ported TB, ASP Crank pulley
SLP/AAM Diff. cover, SY3500, SLP LS6 Intake, Powershot, MSD wires, NGK's,
BMR Boxed LCAs, BMR PHB, BMR SFCs, G2 DSL, Nitto 555R, Heavy Lead Foot...
http://community.webshots.com/user/murlynd

 

Chris, do you know what voltage the 88 degrees represents...? I do not have autotap but I would like to maximize my TB blade opening.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.06@113.8 (gtech runs high in mph by about 4mph), 0-60 4.77 (w/passenger) Gtech'd
12.99@110.2, 2.06 60ft - Tazzo.
Also, 331 rwhp as measured on the Gtech

 

Its about 4.6 volts.