What is the -first- mod you would recommend - 2002 SS?
#1
What is the -first- mod you would recommend - 2002 SS?
2002 SS M6
I've heard muffler. I've heard lid. I've heard filter. I've heard deweighting, IAT sensor mods, etc etc etc.
I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)
What are your thoughts, what kind of gains do they achieve, and where can I buy what is necessary? Thanks
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-2002 Red Camaro SS
Chesapeake, Virginia
http://www.HeadRushPerformance.Com
I've heard muffler. I've heard lid. I've heard filter. I've heard deweighting, IAT sensor mods, etc etc etc.
I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)
What are your thoughts, what kind of gains do they achieve, and where can I buy what is necessary? Thanks
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-2002 Red Camaro SS
Chesapeake, Virginia
http://www.HeadRushPerformance.Com
#2
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Desolate_Flux:
I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)</font>
I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)</font>
As far as mods, the "first" mods you want to do are to help get a little more air into and out of the engine. A new lid/filter and exhaust can help with this. Granted, you've got an SS which already comes with an upgraded exhaust from a Z28, so that may not be as important to change right away (SS guys will know better than me). Also, I'm not sure how the "Ram-air" setup is on the SS, but I believe you could still benefit from an aftermarket lid (allows more/better air flow). As far as filters go, K&N's are good, but I've been hearing a lot lately that the Holley "powershot"? is a good filter as well, but less expensive than K&N's. Again, they just help get more air into your motor.
Check out some of the free mods you can do - ie: ensuring throttle plate opens fully with the throttle bump-stop mod. This page should start you off with some of those.
Good luck, and have fun modding! Hope you've got deep pockets!
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2002 Z28 - A4, 2.73's, Blk/blk, leather, T-tops, sport appearance package - just bought on June 26, 2002! - Pics
1981 Z28 - 383, TH350 trans., 3.42 posi - sold August, 2000 - Pics
1973 Camaro - Dad's & my project in the works - to be built: 355 Chevy, 11.5:1 pop-ups, "camel hump" heads (w/2.02 valves), solid cam, 4-speed.....it should be quick! - Pics
[This message has been edited by Capn Pete (edited August 31, 2002).]
#3
Just keep it simple...get a cam, some longtubes and a 100 shot...
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Black 00 GT Auto
Bassani X-pipe, Magnaflow After-Cat, Steeda Pulleys, C&L CAI/80mm MAF, Ford Motorsport 4.10 Gears, Custom Tuned Autologic Chip, tranny cooler. Steeda Springs, Caster Camber Plates, Subframe Connectors, Strut Tower Brace, lower control arms, Nitto 275's in the rear.
Also drive: Red 94 Cobra #4343
3.73s, Shorty Headers, Mac Hpipe, flowmaster 2 chambers, march pulleys, Mac Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Timing bumped to 14, Saleen Springs, Tokico Shocks/struts. Nittos out back.
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Black 00 GT Auto
Bassani X-pipe, Magnaflow After-Cat, Steeda Pulleys, C&L CAI/80mm MAF, Ford Motorsport 4.10 Gears, Custom Tuned Autologic Chip, tranny cooler. Steeda Springs, Caster Camber Plates, Subframe Connectors, Strut Tower Brace, lower control arms, Nitto 275's in the rear.
Also drive: Red 94 Cobra #4343
3.73s, Shorty Headers, Mac Hpipe, flowmaster 2 chambers, march pulleys, Mac Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Timing bumped to 14, Saleen Springs, Tokico Shocks/struts. Nittos out back.
#4
I just got mine.
I am going slow too.. I am going to be buying the holley powershot only cause most any filter will be the same and I just want the blue one.
Lids are all pretty much the same. I like you, dont want the car to look modded. I like the sleeper Z look. Look stock. Kill vettes.
I wont do exhaust until I find one that is either super quiet or I will just go all out with a 4" mufflex with hidden turndown tip.
But my first mods are LCA's (carry over from last car) Panhard rod (one on last car was bent by tow hook, so looking for new one), air bag in right rear spring, Lid and filter, torque arm bushing, tranny mount bushing, and finally STB (carry over from last car).
With these mods the car will be faster off the line cause I will have traction and will be using power instead of wanting power when I have no need for it since I cant get loads of traction with what I have..
I always follow a simple formula. Add traction till you have enough and cant break em loose easily. Then add power.. Once you cant get traction again, go to adding traction...
So balance yourself with suspension and poly bushings where needed and also add some power.
I may go to the track tomorrow to check out what she will do stock. I know I am keeping it stock until Sept 19th when I get it on the dyno. I want to see what it will do stock then mod by mod. I have time... I have a brand new car.. And I want to make sure I am not adding parts that feel fast but go slow.
By the way, I got 24 mpg last week and I dont have cruise control and I was sustaining 80-90mph... (got a ticket for 86/70) Hehe
Welcome aboard.. ask ?'s often.
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Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28
(6 sp) Bone stock
Webmaster for RaceHer.com
Check out the current polls and vote!
by the prìcking of my thumb, something wicked this way comes
-Traded in- 1995 Camaro Z28 (A4 (#6 I might add!),ES tranny mount and torque arm bushing,SLP CAI,ASP 34% Underdrive,Strange 3.73's (shredded Auburn),1LE alum driveshaft & intake elbow,Yokohamas AVS Intermediates,160-stat,MAF screen removed, HPP+(for shift points only),Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Force-II catback, Gutted Cat, Airlift Airbag, !TB Bypass, J&M LCA's, Bosch Platinums, Moroso BlueMax Wires, Free RamAir, Meziere Electric H2O pump, MAC 3point STB, BMR Panhard, SCR SFC's
Just installed:Nu-tek Heads (mild port) and Comp Cams 1.6RR's! New track and dyno #'s to follow!
best 13.44 @103.26
0-60ft 1.96
270 RWHP/296 RWTQ
0-60MPH 4.8sec
1987 Porsche 944S (waiting on LT1 mod)
I am going slow too.. I am going to be buying the holley powershot only cause most any filter will be the same and I just want the blue one.
Lids are all pretty much the same. I like you, dont want the car to look modded. I like the sleeper Z look. Look stock. Kill vettes.
I wont do exhaust until I find one that is either super quiet or I will just go all out with a 4" mufflex with hidden turndown tip.
But my first mods are LCA's (carry over from last car) Panhard rod (one on last car was bent by tow hook, so looking for new one), air bag in right rear spring, Lid and filter, torque arm bushing, tranny mount bushing, and finally STB (carry over from last car).
With these mods the car will be faster off the line cause I will have traction and will be using power instead of wanting power when I have no need for it since I cant get loads of traction with what I have..
I always follow a simple formula. Add traction till you have enough and cant break em loose easily. Then add power.. Once you cant get traction again, go to adding traction...
So balance yourself with suspension and poly bushings where needed and also add some power.
I may go to the track tomorrow to check out what she will do stock. I know I am keeping it stock until Sept 19th when I get it on the dyno. I want to see what it will do stock then mod by mod. I have time... I have a brand new car.. And I want to make sure I am not adding parts that feel fast but go slow.
By the way, I got 24 mpg last week and I dont have cruise control and I was sustaining 80-90mph... (got a ticket for 86/70) Hehe
Welcome aboard.. ask ?'s often.
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Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28
(6 sp) Bone stock
Webmaster for RaceHer.com
Check out the current polls and vote!
by the prìcking of my thumb, something wicked this way comes
-Traded in- 1995 Camaro Z28 (A4 (#6 I might add!),ES tranny mount and torque arm bushing,SLP CAI,ASP 34% Underdrive,Strange 3.73's (shredded Auburn),1LE alum driveshaft & intake elbow,Yokohamas AVS Intermediates,160-stat,MAF screen removed, HPP+(for shift points only),Borla Y-pipe, Flowmaster Force-II catback, Gutted Cat, Airlift Airbag, !TB Bypass, J&M LCA's, Bosch Platinums, Moroso BlueMax Wires, Free RamAir, Meziere Electric H2O pump, MAC 3point STB, BMR Panhard, SCR SFC's
Just installed:Nu-tek Heads (mild port) and Comp Cams 1.6RR's! New track and dyno #'s to follow!
best 13.44 @103.26
0-60ft 1.96
270 RWHP/296 RWTQ
0-60MPH 4.8sec
1987 Porsche 944S (waiting on LT1 mod)
#5
#1 very first thing you should do to your car if you want better performance.
TIRES TIRES TIRES
Power doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to the ground! And believe me, the stock tires do NOT get the power to the ground! I suggest Nitto Drag Radials or BFG Comp, Radial, or Scorcher T/As in the biggest size you can effectively fit on your wheels. You can take off a half a second off of your ET just from being able to launch better. NO OTHER MOD will be as effective as this.
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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02
Future F-Body Owner
TIRES TIRES TIRES
Power doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to the ground! And believe me, the stock tires do NOT get the power to the ground! I suggest Nitto Drag Radials or BFG Comp, Radial, or Scorcher T/As in the biggest size you can effectively fit on your wheels. You can take off a half a second off of your ET just from being able to launch better. NO OTHER MOD will be as effective as this.
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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02
Future F-Body Owner
#6
Driver improvement mod should be number one...Get used to the car and maz it out in its stock form, then once you cant get it any faster with mods, go for it...
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97 LT1 6spd TA Silver
98 LS1 6spd TA...Mystic teal
Mods-
Moser 12-bolt 33spline axles, larger wheels studs, Auburn Posi, and 3.73s
Kenny Brown Double Diamonds
Global West Lower Control Arms
Global West Panhard rod
McLeod Twin Disk Cluth w/ Adjustable Master Cylinder
Flowmaster Muffler
Cutout
92 CAMARO Z28 HERITAGE PACKAGE- T56 TRANS, CAM, COMPUTER, FRESH PAINT (RED WITH BLACK STRIPES)FOR SALE!!!
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97 LT1 6spd TA Silver
98 LS1 6spd TA...Mystic teal
Mods-
Moser 12-bolt 33spline axles, larger wheels studs, Auburn Posi, and 3.73s
Kenny Brown Double Diamonds
Global West Lower Control Arms
Global West Panhard rod
McLeod Twin Disk Cluth w/ Adjustable Master Cylinder
Flowmaster Muffler
Cutout
92 CAMARO Z28 HERITAGE PACKAGE- T56 TRANS, CAM, COMPUTER, FRESH PAINT (RED WITH BLACK STRIPES)FOR SALE!!!
#7
Go for a SLP loudmouth exhaust and stealth super intake. My fav. That way if you see a potential contender you can do this
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BLACK CAMARO SS WITH 15% TINTS, SLP EXHAUST, EIBACH SPRINGS 1.4, BILSTEIN SHOCKS, HOTCHKISS REAR SUSPENSION PACKAGE, HYPERTECH PROGRAMMER, SS SHIFT **** FROM MBA, B&M SHORT SHIFTER,RK SPORT CARBON FIBER TAIL LIGHTS.
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BLACK CAMARO SS WITH 15% TINTS, SLP EXHAUST, EIBACH SPRINGS 1.4, BILSTEIN SHOCKS, HOTCHKISS REAR SUSPENSION PACKAGE, HYPERTECH PROGRAMMER, SS SHIFT **** FROM MBA, B&M SHORT SHIFTER,RK SPORT CARBON FIBER TAIL LIGHTS.
#8
Everyone's idea's are great. Since you have a M6, three things you should do first. 12 bolt Moser rear with either 3.73's or 4.10's. Camaro rearends suck. Next get a new clutch. And last get a adjustable torque arm. This will really help you put down the traction you need. Hope this helps. Here's another tip, always build your car from the bottom up. Rockls1
#9
Subframe connectors are a must for these cars. Those should definitely be one of your first mods. After that you could go for a lid and a cat-back of your choice.
-Mike
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99 Onyx Black SS A4 #2373
BMR SFC's, BMR STB,BMR LCA's, FLP L/T's, Magnaflow cat-back, Direct-flo lid w/Holley filter,SLP bellows kit, SLP bow-tie grille, Sullivan pedals, MacEwen gauges w/ T/A bezel, Mike C's SS frc's,
-Mike
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99 Onyx Black SS A4 #2373
BMR SFC's, BMR STB,BMR LCA's, FLP L/T's, Magnaflow cat-back, Direct-flo lid w/Holley filter,SLP bellows kit, SLP bow-tie grille, Sullivan pedals, MacEwen gauges w/ T/A bezel, Mike C's SS frc's,
#10
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by rockls1:
Everyone's idea's are great. Since you have a M6, three things you should do first. 12 bolt Moser rear with either 3.73's or 4.10's. Camaro rearends suck. Next get a new clutch. And last get a adjustable torque arm. This will really help you put down the traction you need. Hope this helps. Here's another tip, always build your car from the bottom up. Rockls1</font>
Everyone's idea's are great. Since you have a M6, three things you should do first. 12 bolt Moser rear with either 3.73's or 4.10's. Camaro rearends suck. Next get a new clutch. And last get a adjustable torque arm. This will really help you put down the traction you need. Hope this helps. Here's another tip, always build your car from the bottom up. Rockls1</font>
#11
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CobraKilla:
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02
Future F-Body Owner
#12
All good replys here, but the very first mod I did was to eliminate the skip shift Bull Crap. A simple 50 cent resistor from Radio Shack does the trick. Now, I can shift into any gear I want to rather then the PCM telling me what gear IT wants to be in.
Enjoy your cars.
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68 Z28/RS
69 Z28
82 Z28
01 Dale Earnhardt 'Intimidator' SS
All are original cars
Enjoy your cars.
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68 Z28/RS
69 Z28
82 Z28
01 Dale Earnhardt 'Intimidator' SS
All are original cars
#13
Geez I wouldnt do anyhing drastic to a 2002,but if you got the $, Lid, subframes headers mabye... leave your exhaust from the catback. The SLP you have is fine. If you want Alot of power and are willing to dump 4K go for a nice heads/cam/stall combo.
(I love yank for stalls)
Or Nitrus and some Nittos.
(I love yank for stalls)
Or Nitrus and some Nittos.
#14
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BlackHawk T/A:
Are you crazy? A 4.56 gear is going to need some BIG tires to put that kind of torque multiplication to the ground. You also want to make sure you aren't using a gear that will make you upshift right at the end of the track.
Originally posted by CobraKilla:
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
#15
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NC Dude:
All good replys here, but the very first mod I did was to eliminate the skip shift Bull Crap. A simple 50 cent resistor from Radio Shack does the trick. Now, I can shift into any gear I want to rather then the PCM telling me what gear IT wants to be in.
Enjoy your cars.
</font>
All good replys here, but the very first mod I did was to eliminate the skip shift Bull Crap. A simple 50 cent resistor from Radio Shack does the trick. Now, I can shift into any gear I want to rather then the PCM telling me what gear IT wants to be in.
Enjoy your cars.
</font>
If I want to run hard, I will. Second gear will be there waiting for me too!