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What is the -first- mod you would recommend - 2002 SS?

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Old 08-31-2002 | 03:53 PM
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Post What is the -first- mod you would recommend - 2002 SS?

2002 SS M6

I've heard muffler. I've heard lid. I've heard filter. I've heard deweighting, IAT sensor mods, etc etc etc.

I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)

What are your thoughts, what kind of gains do they achieve, and where can I buy what is necessary? Thanks

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-2002 Red Camaro SS
Chesapeake, Virginia
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Old 08-31-2002 | 05:57 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Desolate_Flux:
I want my car to seem stock. Not some honda that was thrown together. So preferrably no mismatched bumpers, removal of back seat, ugly filter under the hood, etc etc. I left the ricer scene when I bought this car almost a month ago =)</font>
Well, fortunately the Frenchmen in Ste. Therese didn't mismatch bumpers on these cars, so you shouldn't have that problem!

As far as mods, the "first" mods you want to do are to help get a little more air into and out of the engine. A new lid/filter and exhaust can help with this. Granted, you've got an SS which already comes with an upgraded exhaust from a Z28, so that may not be as important to change right away (SS guys will know better than me). Also, I'm not sure how the "Ram-air" setup is on the SS, but I believe you could still benefit from an aftermarket lid (allows more/better air flow). As far as filters go, K&N's are good, but I've been hearing a lot lately that the Holley "powershot"? is a good filter as well, but less expensive than K&N's. Again, they just help get more air into your motor.

Check out some of the free mods you can do - ie: ensuring throttle plate opens fully with the throttle bump-stop mod. This page should start you off with some of those.

Good luck, and have fun modding! Hope you've got deep pockets!

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2002 Z28 - A4, 2.73's, Blk/blk, leather, T-tops, sport appearance package - just bought on June 26, 2002! - Pics

1981 Z28 - 383, TH350 trans., 3.42 posi - sold August, 2000 - Pics

1973 Camaro - Dad's & my project in the works - to be built: 355 Chevy, 11.5:1 pop-ups, "camel hump" heads (w/2.02 valves), solid cam, 4-speed.....it should be quick! - Pics

[This message has been edited by Capn Pete (edited August 31, 2002).]
Old 08-31-2002 | 06:04 PM
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Just keep it simple...get a cam, some longtubes and a 100 shot...

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Also drive: Red 94 Cobra #4343
3.73s, Shorty Headers, Mac Hpipe, flowmaster 2 chambers, march pulleys, Mac Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Timing bumped to 14, Saleen Springs, Tokico Shocks/struts. Nittos out back.
Old 08-31-2002 | 07:30 PM
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Talking

I just got mine.
I am going slow too.. I am going to be buying the holley powershot only cause most any filter will be the same and I just want the blue one.

Lids are all pretty much the same. I like you, dont want the car to look modded. I like the sleeper Z look. Look stock. Kill vettes.

I wont do exhaust until I find one that is either super quiet or I will just go all out with a 4" mufflex with hidden turndown tip.

But my first mods are LCA's (carry over from last car) Panhard rod (one on last car was bent by tow hook, so looking for new one), air bag in right rear spring, Lid and filter, torque arm bushing, tranny mount bushing, and finally STB (carry over from last car).

With these mods the car will be faster off the line cause I will have traction and will be using power instead of wanting power when I have no need for it since I cant get loads of traction with what I have..

I always follow a simple formula. Add traction till you have enough and cant break em loose easily. Then add power.. Once you cant get traction again, go to adding traction...
So balance yourself with suspension and poly bushings where needed and also add some power.
I may go to the track tomorrow to check out what she will do stock. I know I am keeping it stock until Sept 19th when I get it on the dyno. I want to see what it will do stock then mod by mod. I have time... I have a brand new car.. And I want to make sure I am not adding parts that feel fast but go slow.

By the way, I got 24 mpg last week and I dont have cruise control and I was sustaining 80-90mph... (got a ticket for 86/70) Hehe

Welcome aboard.. ask ?'s often.



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Psycho Cabbage
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Old 08-31-2002 | 07:56 PM
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#1 very first thing you should do to your car if you want better performance.

TIRES TIRES TIRES

Power doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to the ground! And believe me, the stock tires do NOT get the power to the ground! I suggest Nitto Drag Radials or BFG Comp, Radial, or Scorcher T/As in the biggest size you can effectively fit on your wheels. You can take off a half a second off of your ET just from being able to launch better. NO OTHER MOD will be as effective as this.

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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02

Future F-Body Owner
Old 08-31-2002 | 08:05 PM
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Driver improvement mod should be number one...Get used to the car and maz it out in its stock form, then once you cant get it any faster with mods, go for it...

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97 LT1 6spd TA Silver

98 LS1 6spd TA...Mystic teal
Mods-
Moser 12-bolt 33spline axles, larger wheels studs, Auburn Posi, and 3.73s
Kenny Brown Double Diamonds
Global West Lower Control Arms
Global West Panhard rod
McLeod Twin Disk Cluth w/ Adjustable Master Cylinder
Flowmaster Muffler
Cutout

92 CAMARO Z28 HERITAGE PACKAGE- T56 TRANS, CAM, COMPUTER, FRESH PAINT (RED WITH BLACK STRIPES)FOR SALE!!!
Old 08-31-2002 | 09:00 PM
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Go for a SLP loudmouth exhaust and stealth super intake. My fav. That way if you see a potential contender you can do this





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BLACK CAMARO SS WITH 15% TINTS, SLP EXHAUST, EIBACH SPRINGS 1.4, BILSTEIN SHOCKS, HOTCHKISS REAR SUSPENSION PACKAGE, HYPERTECH PROGRAMMER, SS SHIFT **** FROM MBA, B&M SHORT SHIFTER,RK SPORT CARBON FIBER TAIL LIGHTS.
Old 08-31-2002 | 09:14 PM
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Everyone's idea's are great. Since you have a M6, three things you should do first. 12 bolt Moser rear with either 3.73's or 4.10's. Camaro rearends suck. Next get a new clutch. And last get a adjustable torque arm. This will really help you put down the traction you need. Hope this helps. Here's another tip, always build your car from the bottom up. Rockls1
Old 08-31-2002 | 09:25 PM
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Subframe connectors are a must for these cars. Those should definitely be one of your first mods. After that you could go for a lid and a cat-back of your choice.

-Mike

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99 Onyx Black SS A4 #2373

BMR SFC's, BMR STB,BMR LCA's, FLP L/T's, Magnaflow cat-back, Direct-flo lid w/Holley filter,SLP bellows kit, SLP bow-tie grille, Sullivan pedals, MacEwen gauges w/ T/A bezel, Mike C's SS frc's,
Old 08-31-2002 | 09:53 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by rockls1:
Everyone's idea's are great. Since you have a M6, three things you should do first. 12 bolt Moser rear with either 3.73's or 4.10's. Camaro rearends suck. Next get a new clutch. And last get a adjustable torque arm. This will really help you put down the traction you need. Hope this helps. Here's another tip, always build your car from the bottom up. Rockls1</font>
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...
Old 08-31-2002 | 10:58 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CobraKilla:
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
Are you crazy? A 4.56 gear is going to need some BIG tires to put that kind of torque multiplication to the ground. You also want to make sure you aren't using a gear that will make you upshift right at the end of the track.


------------------
1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02

Future F-Body Owner
Old 09-01-2002 | 12:28 AM
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All good replys here, but the very first mod I did was to eliminate the skip shift Bull Crap. A simple 50 cent resistor from Radio Shack does the trick. Now, I can shift into any gear I want to rather then the PCM telling me what gear IT wants to be in.

Enjoy your cars.

------------------
68 Z28/RS
69 Z28
82 Z28
01 Dale Earnhardt 'Intimidator' SS
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Old 09-01-2002 | 01:25 AM
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Geez I wouldnt do anyhing drastic to a 2002,but if you got the $, Lid, subframes headers mabye... leave your exhaust from the catback. The SLP you have is fine. If you want Alot of power and are willing to dump 4K go for a nice heads/cam/stall combo.
(I love yank for stalls)
Or Nitrus and some Nittos.
Old 09-01-2002 | 03:44 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BlackHawk T/A:
Originally posted by CobraKilla:
First off get a 9 inch cause they are better and you can change gears in a half hour if you have multiple sets...Second off 4.10s are good for highway crusin...So get some real gears 4.56 and up...When you get a new clutch make sure to get an adjustable master cylinder cause the stock one cant open up all aftermarket clutches are high RPM's...But like I said before do the driver mod, where you learn how to max out your car before you mod it...</font>
Are you crazy? A 4.56 gear is going to need some BIG tires to put that kind of torque multiplication to the ground. You also want to make sure you aren't using a gear that will make you upshift right at the end of the track.


Am I crazy? Well...uh...basically...Getting it to the ground should be done with the 9inch, LCAs, torque arm, drag springs, drag shocks, and some 15 inch slicks...Once you got a suspension that can take the shock, get a good clutch with and keep the steel flywheel and go for it...
Old 09-01-2002 | 11:46 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NC Dude:
All good replys here, but the very first mod I did was to eliminate the skip shift Bull Crap. A simple 50 cent resistor from Radio Shack does the trick. Now, I can shift into any gear I want to rather then the PCM telling me what gear IT wants to be in.

Enjoy your cars.

</font>
CAGS is not a performance mod. Right? So why would you even suggest it? Also, why does it bother you people so much that it wants you to go into 4th? I have had mine for a month and if I dont want 4th, I put it partially into 4th then go into 2nd.. or I go straight into 3rd. But it only is active when you are going slow anyways so I never find myself wanting for more power since its helping my gas mileage anyways.

If I want to run hard, I will. Second gear will be there waiting for me too!


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