I have a billet thromstat housing I'm putting in and figured I would inquire about the 160' stats? Any gains? Diffeences?
Thanks

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2002 Z-28 M6 #251, B&M Ripper, !CAGS!, C-5 Wheels, BMR Fabrication: SFC,PHR,STB,LCA,Relocation Brackets, Flowmaster Cat Back, Eibach Sportlines, MTI Clear Lid, Holly Power shot filter, Whisper MAF Ends, Flowtech 3" Cutout, Corvette FRC's, Mobile 1 Oil Cap.

1988 Camaro 305 TBI T-Tops

1999 Blazer. Westin Side Bars

 

the concept is that if your car is cooler it will produce more power thus 160 thermos=power. But I dont think that the 20 degrees warrants me paying $50 for the part. I would much rather wait until it breaks or fails then when I have to replace it anyways, upgrade.


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Psycho Cabbage
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This is a debatable issue. A lot of people are making more power with the stock T-Stat. The LS1 likes it hot. The block is supposed to run at 210 and the heads at 187 to prevent detonation. You want to keep the block hot, and the air intake charge cool, this is how you make power.

HEAT = POWER

Read more on LS1.com if you want, we had a discussion on this.

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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02

Future F-Body Owner

 

So you are telling me that, a) the 160 stat is useless and, b) it will do more harm than good to have a cooler engine? Im confused

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2002 Camaro Z28 A4, 3.23
Monterey Maroon Metallic
Stock for now until I decide what to install.

 

So by keeping the block hot your pulling the heat from the heads???

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2002 Z-28 M6 #251, B&M Ripper, !CAGS!, C-5 Wheels, BMR Fabrication: SFC,PHR,STB,LCA,Relocation Brackets, Flowmaster Cat Back, Eibach Sportlines, MTI Clear Lid, Holly Power shot filter, Whisper MAF Ends, Flowtech 3" Cutout, Corvette FRC's, Mobile 1 Oil Cap.

1988 Camaro 305 TBI T-Tops

1999 Blazer. Westin Side Bars

 

If I were you, I'd just wait on the 160 Thermo.

It helps some, some it doesn't. If you do throw a 160 in, and you don't like the results, you can always pull it out and replace it with the stock 180.

Not that much of a difference, If I were you , I'd take that same money you were gonna drop on the thermo, and just get a throttle-body air foil, hey, their about exactly the same price.

I found a small diff. after my air-foil, especially in the mid-RPM range when there's more air being sucked into the motor.

Jost my .02

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1994 Z28 M6 - Black w/ T-tops,
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I recently installed a Hypertech 160 stat on my car but it consistently keeps the engine temperature near or at 210 degrees.

I have not noticed any significant cooling on the engine since I installed the thermostat.

I would recommend against it. I am contemplating installing the stock thermostat.

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this is a confusing subject. Its confusing because it is more complicated than jsut a blanket statement like it will help...

some cars it helps, some cars it hurts, some it really doesnt seem to affect.

a stock car, will probalby lose power from this. A blower car will problaby gain, heads and cam cars could go either way, depending on the set up.

the engine makes power by heaing the gasses in the combustion chamber causing them to expand and force the pistion down into the bore. the hotter and faster they are heated the more power gets made.

Most heat isnt used to expand the gas however, it escapes through the exaust, and cooling system. since the greater the difference between the heat source and where the heat is lost to means greater heat transfer can take place in a given amount of time, the colder engine will lose more heat to the cooling system. any heat lost is heat not available for power.

now you are asking yourself why this doenst apply to all engines and why the blanket it will hurt be true..

Excessive heat can cause detonation which can not only hurt performance but destroy parts as well. The LS1 usualy backs off timing in the event it "hears" detonation, which also hurts power.

Add a blower to an already high compression hot runing engine and you end up with too much heat, and detonation starts to occur.

every combo is different, and even two different cars with identical combos may have slightly different needs.

The only blanket statement that can really be used (and even this isnt infalable)is, run as hot as you can without causing irregular combustion or parts damage (like melting)

 

The temperature guages on these cars are flat wrong, they are in fact, designed to stay right where yours is unless you get major heat or the car is hot. if you were to use a scanner of some type, to see what the actual temp is it would problably be about 175-185 which is right around where the 160* t stats keep the temp

 

How could I gage the "correct" engine temp without using a Autometer gauge?

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2002 Z28 Navy BLue MetaLLic

• A4
• 160 degree Hypertech Thermostat
• Granatelli MAF
• Granatelli Cold Air Lid
• K&N Filter
• SLP Ram Air Kit
• Hypertech Power Programming III
• FLowmaster 40series Muffler
• Borla Polished Tips
• 30% sport tints, Plasma Bulbs

 

U can't need a diag of some kind

 

Yeah,
I'm pretty sure that an autometer is the only way to actually guage the temp...

Later,



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1994 Z28 M6 - Black w/ T-tops,
17x9.5 rims, Radar Detector,
Alpine 6- Disc 400W to 10" Custom Box in rear.

Check out my new pics @
My Webpage - http://www.z28only.com
Email - 94z28jbw@team.camaroz28.com

Mods to date:Underdrive Pulleys, Hotchkis Rear Suspension Package, 17 in. BBS Moda Rims, Wings-West Rear Spoiler, Momo Shifter w/ Hurst Short-Throw, Hypertech Power Programing, Bosch Platinum Spark Plugs, 3 in. Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N FIPK Cold-Air Intake, C.A.G.S., Red Grantinelli MAF, Throttle-Body Air Foil.

 

autotap or the scan something.. scanmaster? i think

autotap is the most common one

 

I think you guys are right. I'll let it slide for now.

 

Heat = Detonation more often than not on our cars.
Not only does a lower temp thermostat aid power building by allowing the computer to put in more timing, it reduces the oppurtunity for detonation/preignition to damage engine components.

Don't worry about paying for a thermostat though, get one for FREE!

http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180

One thing you should know though, lowering your thermostat temp does not keep your engine cooler by itself. At speeds below about 40 mph around town your engine will NOT run cooler. You need air flowing through the radiator as well. On the highway the temp will drop with the new thermostat, but until you get the fans coming on sooner than the factory preset, the temps will not decrease in traffic situations.
SLP and others make a fan toggle switch that is manually operated and you must run wires from the engine bay to the interior... oh yeah, the switch is around $50+. OR you could get a thermostatic fan switch from Jegs or Pep-Boys for around $20 and have fully automatic fan operation at the temp of your choosing and not have to run wires all over your car.
Anyway, I was getting bad KR and audible detonation... The cure is to cool incoming air and the combustion chambers.
I did the TB bypass, FRA, free thermostat, & automatic fan mod... now my detonation is gone and timing is back except on the hottest days. If you have detonation troubles you also must run premium unleaded fuel at all times like your owner's manual recommends.
Sorry for going off on somewhat of a tangent, but it does all tie together and is part of the reason that the lower temp stat IS good for our cars.
Dave

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