10's w/Ai 355. Pump gas VIDEO
02-15-2008, 12:01 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 455
Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it guys. It's nice to get down the track without destroying drivetrain. The car is running an F.A.S.T. Classic bank to bank EFI, and a stock vented opti spark. Race weight is 3320 and I am running a 4.10 gear. My 60's where in the 1.5's, but as you can see in the video it was bogging down pretty hard. I have to do some calculations and figure out a new rear end ratio and launch rpm. I've had the power for awhile with this engine to go mid 10's and high 120's, but have to get the setup dialed in.
Here are my dyno graphs:
SAE
and
STD
Here are my time slips:
timeslips
I got the weight down to 3320 by removing the interior. The car has to go in for a 10 or 12 point cage, and the chassis guy told me it would make his life easier if I brought him the car with no interior. I removed the seats, carpet, center console, door trim, and most of the cabin plastics. I left the seat belts (driver and pass) and installed a cheap summit racing seat. I mounted it by making my own seat bracket. Basically, I took out the easy stuff. I can reinstall the entire interior in about an hour.
It's my street car, so I can't remove a lot of the parts that will really help get the car to transfer weight & get down the track. It still has air bags, full & functioning AC/Heat, ABS, wipers, front & rear bumpers, power windows, all of the glass is stock, stock brakes, stock A-arms, and a stock gas tank. I am more than likely going to replace the upper and lower A-arms, and if I get new brakes I want the sweet road race ones, not the ultra light drag race brakes. I guess the final weight will be around 35-3600 or so after the chrome molly cage and the interior and sound system are reinstalled. I don't think it'll make much difference to add a little weight back. Once I keep it screaming from one end to the other (instead of semi bogging it for the first second or two) I think it'll end up going faster.
I am glad you guys like the sound! The tapes do it no justice, Ive never heard an LT1 like it. When I set up the engine I was using a stock ECU, so Ai set the cam to peak around 6900-7000 (it does). However, the springs are set up to handle more rpm (originally for safety margin). So when I installed the F.A.S.T. I started shifting higher & higher, and the
multiple hits on the rev limiter were 8,000 RPM!! It was only down 20hp (480) at 7500, so I've been trying to shift there. The exhaust is a set of pace setter 1 3/4" headers with my own custom X-pipe exhaust. It has awesome ground clearance, but may be too loud for street use. For the past year I've just used band clamps to quickly swap back to my SLP 2OTL for long distance cruises. It works pretty good, I can swap exhausts in 10 mins or so.
When I started working on this engine I didn't care how long it lasted. It was just something to play with while I got the big engine together. I used some budget components: balanced factory crank, manley sportsman ibeams, decent pistons & rings (Mahle power pack), stock oil system, and a compromise rocker system (comp promags w/stud girdle b/c I already owned the 1.6's). This engine turned out so well with a nice torque curve & drivability that there's rumors it will be built & sold with nicer valvetrain, crank, rods, oiling etc. this year.
The original video I did when I first put it in the car, before sorting
out the tuning issues is still up on street fire:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...7c00207164.htm
Javier97Z28 & speed_demon24: I am sure we could work something out. I am going back to the Concord area to do some more work in a few weeks. Maby we can meet some where and get you guys tuned up. Send me PM's with your particular set up (CID, Fuel system, vacuum at idle, and the tuning software you are using). If I can help I will.
Thanks guys!
Here are my dyno graphs:
SAE
and
STD
Here are my time slips:
timeslips
I got the weight down to 3320 by removing the interior. The car has to go in for a 10 or 12 point cage, and the chassis guy told me it would make his life easier if I brought him the car with no interior. I removed the seats, carpet, center console, door trim, and most of the cabin plastics. I left the seat belts (driver and pass) and installed a cheap summit racing seat. I mounted it by making my own seat bracket. Basically, I took out the easy stuff. I can reinstall the entire interior in about an hour.
It's my street car, so I can't remove a lot of the parts that will really help get the car to transfer weight & get down the track. It still has air bags, full & functioning AC/Heat, ABS, wipers, front & rear bumpers, power windows, all of the glass is stock, stock brakes, stock A-arms, and a stock gas tank. I am more than likely going to replace the upper and lower A-arms, and if I get new brakes I want the sweet road race ones, not the ultra light drag race brakes. I guess the final weight will be around 35-3600 or so after the chrome molly cage and the interior and sound system are reinstalled. I don't think it'll make much difference to add a little weight back. Once I keep it screaming from one end to the other (instead of semi bogging it for the first second or two) I think it'll end up going faster.
I am glad you guys like the sound! The tapes do it no justice, Ive never heard an LT1 like it. When I set up the engine I was using a stock ECU, so Ai set the cam to peak around 6900-7000 (it does). However, the springs are set up to handle more rpm (originally for safety margin). So when I installed the F.A.S.T. I started shifting higher & higher, and the
multiple hits on the rev limiter were 8,000 RPM!! It was only down 20hp (480) at 7500, so I've been trying to shift there. The exhaust is a set of pace setter 1 3/4" headers with my own custom X-pipe exhaust. It has awesome ground clearance, but may be too loud for street use. For the past year I've just used band clamps to quickly swap back to my SLP 2OTL for long distance cruises. It works pretty good, I can swap exhausts in 10 mins or so.
When I started working on this engine I didn't care how long it lasted. It was just something to play with while I got the big engine together. I used some budget components: balanced factory crank, manley sportsman ibeams, decent pistons & rings (Mahle power pack), stock oil system, and a compromise rocker system (comp promags w/stud girdle b/c I already owned the 1.6's). This engine turned out so well with a nice torque curve & drivability that there's rumors it will be built & sold with nicer valvetrain, crank, rods, oiling etc. this year.
The original video I did when I first put it in the car, before sorting
out the tuning issues is still up on street fire:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...7c00207164.htm
Javier97Z28 & speed_demon24: I am sure we could work something out. I am going back to the Concord area to do some more work in a few weeks. Maby we can meet some where and get you guys tuned up. Send me PM's with your particular set up (CID, Fuel system, vacuum at idle, and the tuning software you are using). If I can help I will.
Thanks guys!
02-15-2008, 01:57 PM
#35
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Jupiter (NPB), Fl
Posts: 3,852
Javier97Z28 & speed_demon24: I am sure we could work something out. I am going back to the Concord area to do some more work in a few weeks. Maby we can meet some where and get you guys tuned up. Send me PM's with your particular set up (CID, Fuel system, vacuum at idle, and the tuning software you are using). If I can help I will.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
02-15-2008, 02:47 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Louisiana, USA
Posts: 1,582
Wow 7500rpms! I want to turn my Lt1 that high so maybe I'll start looking for a Fast setup. I heard those bank to bank systems were easy to tune? I also like the 3,300lb raceweight but you are planning on going lower than 4.10's out back?
02-16-2008, 04:19 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 455
It's easy when you know how. 
F.A.S.T. is a good system. It's not the best, but for the money it works well. Having the ability to make real time adjustments is a major benefit over the stock ECU. When you are paying hourly for dyno time, the importance of real time adjustment is more to the front of your mind.
There is nothing wrong with a stock ECU. Once it's properly tuned it's reliable and capable of giving you the performance you want, within its limits of course (7K RPM or less, No boost).
I don't know what gear/ tire I am going to run yet. I have to do some calculations, but I am too busy with other projects to really mess with it now. The tracks open in April at the earliest in Ohio, so I have some time before I can get back out.
F.A.S.T. is a good system. It's not the best, but for the money it works well. Having the ability to make real time adjustments is a major benefit over the stock ECU. When you are paying hourly for dyno time, the importance of real time adjustment is more to the front of your mind.
There is nothing wrong with a stock ECU. Once it's properly tuned it's reliable and capable of giving you the performance you want, within its limits of course (7K RPM or less, No boost).
I don't know what gear/ tire I am going to run yet. I have to do some calculations, but I am too busy with other projects to really mess with it now. The tracks open in April at the earliest in Ohio, so I have some time before I can get back out.
02-17-2008, 01:00 PM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 377
Would the F.A.S.T. system be safe on an untouched shortblock with some miles on it though? I plan on replacing all the bearings and hopefully don't have to balence the crank but I planned on leaving the stock bottom untouched otherwise. I'm not sure if I trust the stock bottom end spinning at those RPM's.
02-17-2008, 03:04 PM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
Would the F.A.S.T. system be safe on an untouched shortblock with some miles on it though? I plan on replacing all the bearings and hopefully don't have to balence the crank but I planned on leaving the stock bottom untouched otherwise. I'm not sure if I trust the stock bottom end spinning at those RPM's.
Stock crank will take it but use say some Mahle pistons and upgraded rods at least a Scat capscrew rod or better yet Compstar. A 6" rod allows for a lighter piston. The tension on rods at high rpms is pretty wild, lighter is easier on everything.
02-24-2008, 10:59 AM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 455
An aftermarket ECU will not change the way a car performs, it only changes the method of communication.
Here is an example of F.A.S.T. Vs. my stock ecu.
My top end (cam, heads, springs, intake) makes it possible, and reasonable, to turn more RPM. The F.A.S.T. lets me operate in this range, so that is the advantage my particular application has over a stock ECU.
I have to admit that I am pretty surprised with the stock opti spark and coil. It will be interesting to see how many times it can see over 7,000 RPM before it fails.
Here is an example of F.A.S.T. Vs. my stock ecu.
My top end (cam, heads, springs, intake) makes it possible, and reasonable, to turn more RPM. The F.A.S.T. lets me operate in this range, so that is the advantage my particular application has over a stock ECU.
I have to admit that I am pretty surprised with the stock opti spark and coil. It will be interesting to see how many times it can see over 7,000 RPM before it fails.
02-24-2008, 05:31 PM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 2,640
I was talking to a Stock Eliminator guy yesterday at the track and OEM optis are all he uses. He actually talked bad about the MSD. 
He was turning it 7000 and running 6.40s, so I guess it's doing ok!
He was turning it 7000 and running 6.40s, so I guess it's doing ok!
02-24-2008, 05:55 PM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 3,245