steiger99

I am looking for a shop around me (100 miles -150 miles if they are really worth the trip). I have a 1995 lt1 camaro that I just put in 383 stroker with 12.5:1 compression. I have had Bryan at PCMforless tune the computer and have the car all back together but it will just not run right. I am done playing the guessing game and need someone that can for sure get this setup running. (#1)Does anyone know of a shop around brighton/howell/southeastern michigan area that can plug in my car and figure out what the problem is.?

I posted before all the symptons under title:"will pay via paypal to whoever correctly diagnoses my problem and get my car running!" Here is a copy of that thread posted below so you don't have to go looking for my symptons, they are all right here:

But before you read that I have just put on a new coil, new coil wire, new spark plugs, new plug wires, new ECT sensor (loacted on waterpump housing driver side), new TPS sensor, new MSD opti, and have scanned the car with datamaster while it was running for about 5 minutes (today 8/5/06 @ 2:00 p.m.). The car has the exact same symptoms so the problem is not in the parts I have changed above, or least I would hope. (#2)Does anyone know of someone that I can send my datamaster file to because it is still throwing code 15 and 22, also knock count is 3235 (all as the car was starting then no more knocks were added), is that high? spark retard bounces between 0.1 and 5.0, the "fuel trim Cell"was constantly highlighted yellow on the number 18, TPS volts was constant @ 0.02 - 0.04, "TPS%" was constant at 5.1, LTerm Counts were (112-120) highlighted slighly pink towards the end. I just someone that understand what these values mean I know what has to be fixed. Thanks for your time and help.

""k I have read just about every thread there is on this site and still can't figure this out. 1995 LT1 camaro with forged 383 stroker (12.5:1 compression) done by golenengineservice.com. I have approx 1100 miles on the new setup and am now on my 3rd opti, which is the new one from MSD for $500.

Symptoms: The car is really hard to start just about everytime I try. Sometimes, however, it seems like it starts before I even turn the key, but most of the time it turns over for a good 3-5 seconds, I try pumping the gas, it starts to make good noises like it wants to start and finally it starts within 10 seconds. Now that she is started the throttle response is just not there. When I rev it and I can definitely tell it is bogging/hesitating/etc. It sputters real bad in any gear under 2000 rpms. When I am accelerating and hit the 2000rpm mark its like the car catches it breath and seems like the power is finally there until I hit about 4000 rpm and I get a serious misfire/miss/complete loss of power. THe car doesn't shut off it just misses real bad and then runs real rough for next minute or so and then it just goes back to that constant minor sputtering.

I have been to two shops (southeast michigan) to try and figure out what the "Service engine soon" light is for but nobody can get a reading. I don't know if they just dont have the right scanner or what the deal is but they send me away empty handed everytime. So my first question is where can I get a scanner or even better yet, some software that will tell me the trouble codes and possbily also use this software to tune my car. Bryan at PCMforless tuned the car by the way and I have the AKM cable that plugs into my laptop and the car port, I loaded Bryan's tune via my laptop to be exact.

I have new O2 sensors, new TPS, new MSD opti, new plugs, new AIC valve. I just bought a new coil and coil wire just for shat and giggles and am putting that on today as we speak. THe fuel pressure is about at 45 and holds steady while in the KOEO position. I read something about the opti going on backwards in one of these message boards, something about the "pintle" or "splined shaft" not being lined up correctly. I guess there is two ways that the opti clicks into place??? I just lined up the dowel pin and put that lined up with the overlarged hole on the opti itself and the opti just fell into place. Every other way I lined it up the opti would not click into place. Is that wrong, or possible wrong?

I noticed the spark plug wires on cylinder 8 and 6 have slightly been melted (the outer coating has been melted off), I am putting on new wires as we speak since I just found this out. This will also be the 3rd set of plugs I have put in since the new motor. Is there a specific gap you guys use (I have NGKTR55 gapped at .050). With my high compression should I change my gap or maybe run a colder plug?

Mainly how or who can figure out what codes my car is throwing so I can at least be pointed in the right direction. I will buy the damn scanner if you can give a part number of one that you know will work for my 1995 OBD1 computer.

Chad @ Golen Engine Service has been trying to trouble shoot with me but he keeps saying "opti, opti, opti.." and this is my third and final opti. When I replaced the opti with the MSD opti yesterday the sputtering while at a constant speed was the exact same, well everything remained the same. When I floor it it accelerates great until I get into higher RPM's and then.. BAM!!! the entire car misses and I have to push in the clutch until the car catches itself and then just runs like crap. Also when the engine is coming down from higher rpm's after this "big miss" sometimes it falls so fast that the car will actually stall out (rpms dive below 500 and I have to restart it which takes a good 8-10 seconds of turing it over.

All thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated and the paypal reward is not a joke

Steiger99@hotmail.com

brokeTA

I'm a little too far from you, or I would take a stab at it. Have you come up with anything else since the last thread you made?

jonota

Some information for you:

Your idle TPS% should be zero unless someone played with the throttle stop to keep the car idling, which (arguably) is a bad thing. Knock counts should have an initial value, that's what is stored in the computer as a long term count, and should be ignored. It's the counts AFTER the initial startup that should worry you. You say the counts don't increase but you do see knock retard, that's usually because the computer is anticipating knock... so it could be your tune/computer that is the problem in general. Long term counts say that the car itself is running rich... which depending on your cam setup and etc etc, could be a good, bad, or indifferent thing. Your codes indicate that there is something wrong with the wiring for those two sensors since you have replaced them with no change... I am suffering a similar problem right now I attribute to some open wire splices I can see (don't have time right now to rip my #2 car apart to fix them)

I too have had trouble with shops charging for "diagnostic" services and offering no help whatsoever. I admire the willingness to pay someone even for internet advice, but on this forum I would expect people to help you out of the fact that this is one of the main purposes of the forum... free help from other enthusiast.

Some additional things to check out.... may seem hokey but it can't hurt:

-all grounds for computer, etc
-wire continuity for all sensors
-condition of all sensors (if it hasn't been replaced, and looks like crap... although the datamaster/freescan information should tell you if they're broke or not)
-vacuum line condition and routing. A bad or inproperly routed opti vacuum connection could cause you to lose the ability to vent the optispark.... which could lead to EXTREMELY rapid failure(have had it happen to me).
-fuel pressure under load. Hook up the gauge and tape it to your windshield, or buy a in cab gauge to monitor what happens when you get on it. Your pump may not be putting out what you need for the engine. Ignore this if you have already done so

Additionally, if you know more specs that would be helpful as well, such as all the work that was done to the engine, cam size, bolt ons used, manual or automatic, the more information the better (sorry if you have already provided this information).

Jonota

NVetro

I had this problem in the past. It ended up being my fuel pump. With the key to the "ON" position she would pressurize 45psi and hold perfect, but when driving and i got on her she diped REAL LOW, dont think the stock pump with 108k on her was keeping up with the motor which just had bolt ons (headers, etc...) Look into what was mentioned above, get a fuel pressure gauge (if u checked it when you prob have one) hook it upto the shrader valve and tape it to your windsheild, close the hood and go out and see what the fuel pressure is throughuot the rpm band. It may be GREAT at pressuring and holding pressure, but you have to test if it can supply what the motor wants. Check it out, its a good place to start.

ACE1252

I don't know why shops can't tell you the codes. You need to break down and get the scanner.

If you have a laptop get this.....

http://www.autotap.com/

If not, get something else capable of reading your years codes.

You mentioned your datamaster showed codes 15 and 22.

15 is Coolant Sensor Circuit - (Low Temperature indicated)
22 is TPS Circuit - (Signal Voltage Low)

15 points to some issue with the coolant sensor in the water pump....that or something is wrong with your cooling system.

22 points to the Throttle position sensor.

Autotap can look at the TPS sensor and tell you where it thinks it is sitting. It will also tell you what the coolant temp shows. LT1's have two coolant sensors. The one in the waterpump is for the computer...the one in the driver's side head is for the temp guage.

I think both of these issues can cause difficult starting and other odd running conditions.

Start working the issue there....get rid of those two codes and see what happens.

EDIT: I see you've already replaced those sensors....are the 15 and 22 still present?? If so, check for wiring and voltage issues in those circuits.

ACE1252

At this point concentrate on the hard start issue. Here are some solid hard start troubleshooting steps from the GM service manual.

http://www.ace1252.com/hardstart1.jpg
http://www.ace1252.com/hardstart2.jpg
http://www.ace1252.com/hardstart3.jpg

The images are big, so that you can read the writing in the book when you full size it.

These steps also could point to a definite problem within your Coolant and TPS circuits.

Danny McAdams

From my experience I suspect the opti drive pin is in cam wrong; i have seen this twice on after market cams sometimes the splines are messed up. Next fuel pump failing or obstruction in fuel line mostly the plastic line at filter, if it was kinked sometime the inside of the tube would block it. When you said you had 2 hot headers, points at opti in wrong. Lotsa luck Camaro409

RE AND CHERYL

For your codes I would break out a continuity tester and verrify the wires are good. If your getting a good connection try shaking down the harness. Possible you could have a broken or near broken wire somewhere.

I also like what Danny said. Is the dowl pin in the Opti right? If that thing is a little bit too tall all H**L will break loose. It could cause a lot of the problems you are experiencing.

Justa thought...Have you tried a different PCM??

streetbad

Take it to Collins Automotive Service. Location in Waterford Michigan. 248-682-3840. They are located at 5711 Elizabeth Lake Road.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

"TPS volts was constant @ 0.02 - 0.04, "TPS%" was constant at 5.1"

I don't get why your TPS voltage is so low and your TPS% is constant. It should be .7V - 4.5V or something similar, and the % should vary from 0-100 when you press the throttle. If it isn't doing that, you got a problem with the wires, connector, or TPS sensor.

Eric@Victory Racing

Vector Motorsports 586-453-9030

Danny McAdams

I took time this morn to check my notes on the 2 lt1's that had the same prob. I responded to what scanner had told me, did sensors, "wrong answers" went back to stone age, put #1 piston on top comp. stroke, took cover off opti compared where rotor pointed to #1 plug wire to where it was, oops! 1 tooth off, changed pin and visually set opti /rotor on #1. Guess what it fixed it after I had spent 37 hrs scratching my head. I have learned when #6 & #8 cyls get too hot on lt1"s "opti" every time.I'm not much on computers but built and tuned hotrods 40 yrs. Lotsa luck

WS Sick

I thought at closed the TPS should read from .4 to .6 volts DC and open 4.5 to 5 volts DC?

If it is .02 vDC then it is way too low. Or is that .02 percentage?

guywithaZ

Just throwin this out there, there was a team on Pinks from Michigan that ran against a foxbody. They had an F-body maybe someone knows of them.

disco192

Some ideas worth looking into:

Knock sensor - they are phenicky w/ torque, sometimes need teflon tape
Valve Lash - simple, but who knows
Fuel Pressure - pump or regulator
Grounds - try adding some antisieze or dielectric grease for better connection
Plug wires - I know its simple, but people cross them over all the time
TPS - Sounds like you already have issues here, also check those wires. You can check those manually w/ a multimeter.
O2s - not likely, but run in open loop to make sure.
MAF sensor - unplug it and test. Sometimes it can help. It will eliminate problems that happen before the TB.
Vacuum lines - they are easy to miss. Just double check them.
Header bolts - tighten them, check for dark colors around the gaskets
EGR - if not removed... put your hand back there and depress it... if nothing changes, then your EGR might be stuck open.
Other vacuum leaks - you might have intake seal issues. You may need a thicker intake gasket, unlikely, but happened to me
Melted wires - check all your wires and make sure they arent melted. A melted wire can cause serious havoc
Tune - unlikely, but you might have the wrong year tune. Ive heard of weird things happening from from this problem.

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I know I had a similar problems and went into my tune and started removing unnecessary tables - such as spark adjust vs egr and ALL traction control issues. I have no idea why, but traction control might be kicking on (even if you dont have it) and pulling timing. I set all those values to zero and most of my problems went away. I also changed alot of other things, so I cant nail down what did it.

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I hope that helps. I would also recomend taking it to a good tuner. Tuners dont typically like troubleshooting, but some are EXTREMELY good at it.

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Honestly I would get some datalogging before you rip your hair out. For all you know... when it falls on its face... you are getting 0* timing or the injectors arent firing like they should, or your TPS isnt working and it never goes into power enrichment and you get detonation...

definately check fuel pressure though. That can cause you to lose a motor in a hurry.

Keep us posted,
-Stu