tnorm077

I have a 1996 lt1 that is having a issue with losing battery power. I have put in brand new positive and negative battery cables, I have put in a new alternator (AC Delco), and I have put in a new battery (Optima 720 cca). So what happens is when I come to a stop at a light my battery gauge drops into the red and my headlights dim. It goes back to normal when I am accelerating. Also if I leave it sit for awhile it will be dead. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this issue?

Thanks

ProjectRacez28

Something might be drawing too much power. I just had a serious electrical problem and it was all solvedwith a simple method.

Check ur positive wire running to the starter and make sure the connection is clean and the wire is in good shape.

Make sure ur new alt wire is connected and clean

Check ur postive post wire for anything

Check the ground wire to the block and the one by the steering fluisd box.

It all just sounds like some kind of short to me or an open circuit that is drawing the power

Injuneer

When you come to a stop does engine RPM also drop? When the RPM gets below a certain point the alternator cannot provide sufficient current. Does your engine have an underdrive crank pulley? Any power hungry add-ons like a high power audio system?

tnorm077

No the Rpm's don't drop out of ordinary. Its at about 800 when I'm at a stop. I don't have an underdrive kit but i do have an electric water pump.

shoebox

Use an ammeter to look for power drains.

Fatdog2

Do you have an after market alarm system?Just wondering.My money is on the voltage regulator,which in in the alternator.hope this helps.Also when you pull up to a garage door at night do your headlights go up and down when you step on the gas (dim and bright)(coil).

GaryDoug

Check the car at night and where it is quiet. A lamp or device may be on that you may not notice otherwise. I left my hatch area lamp on for a week once in my 86 TA because I did not notice it in the daytime.

tnorm077

It is the stock alarm system as far as I know. The alternator is new and it is the third one I have tried because I thought the alternators I kept buying were faulty. Yes my headlights go up and down as I step on the gas, so does my dash lights. Could this be my Coil is bad?

OptimaJim

When your lights dim with the engine running, it means your alternator is not covering the electrical demands of your car at that moment and energy from the battery is being used. We suggest typical alternator output to be in the range of about 13.7-14.7 volts. If you measure the voltage of your battery at the terminals while the engine is running, this will indicate alternator output. While you have your multimeter out, it also wouldn't be a bad idea to measure the parasitic draw on your car. This video explains how to do that. In addition to what others have suggested, if you have replaced your alternator, but are still not seeing good voltage levels, you may want to check your belt tensioner to ensure is functioning properly.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
OPTIMA%u00AE Batteries (optimabatteries) on Pinterest

tnorm077

My blinkers also blink really slow at low rpm's and sometimes even stop blinking. When accelerating it blinks like normal. There is no way it is my alternator, battery, or battery cables because they are all new and tested.

shoebox

What is your status on the battery drain testing?

robcarnut

I just posted an electrical short problem and was wanting to know if you found your issue?

I don't lose power while driving, my draw occurs when car is parked. Wires, alternator, battery, starter all have been replaced, secured properly.

You mentioned a ground strap near the power steering?

Dealership currently getting .01 ohms draw while parked which is well within spec. What have others found where the wring harness has grounded out-where to look???

Injuneer

"tnorm077" has not been back to the site since July 2014. You could try sending him an e-mail. Left click on his screen name, and there will be an option on the drop down to send an e-mail. But his problem sounds nothing like yours.

robcarnut

Thanks. I posted my problem under his thread because of similiar issue of battery draw. Culling other posts, I've found: drivers seat motor, courtesy light, and radio amp draws. I am just trying to give the mechanic a direction to look into, since when he is periodically checking the car, the parasitic drain is minimal, well within spec. I've been able to start the cars days later with no problem, then go somewhere, and 4 hours later need a jump start.

Battery, starter, alternator all fine, with fresh battery wires installed and secured properly. It's a true gremlin issue for sure...

Injuneer

The "mechanic" should be familiar with how to track down a current draw. Insert a multi-meter in series with the positive battery cable. Set it to DC amps. Make sure ignition key is on "off" position, and do not try to start the engine, or you will toast the meter. When he sees a high current draw, he needs to start pulling fuses, one at a time, to see if one of them eliminates the current draw when it is pulled. He could also disconnect the fusible links in the red plastic "+" box at the battery, to pick up a current draw on not-ignition switched loads.

You still need to clarify the issue of "ohms" vs. "amps", which you stated in your other post.

That's all you need to do to determine the magnitude of the current draw. Intermittent will make it harder to find.

Are you sure you don't have a badly corroded battery terminal or main battery cable? Are you sure you don't have a dead spot in the starter windings? What does the dash volt meter indicate when you turn the key to "run"? Do the dash lights come on when this happens?