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Weird your TB elbow didn't clear the EWP...mine does. I did cut off the part that sticks down on the elbow. IDK what would be different in that regard between my LT1 in B-body vs F-body...but you are there and can see what I can't so whatever you gotta do
IDK the pin #, name but understand what you intend by using the air pump circuit to run the EWP. EFI Connections may have the pins you seek. I suspect there is a write-up somewhere on converting the air pump circuit for EWP. I did mine 20 years ago but just wired in a outboard relay/fuse
Your build is looking very good Drew. Is the red split loom you are using heat resistant??
Normally you would use "grey stripe" (heat resistant) split loom rated for underhold use but IDK if it comes in colors. I buy that & blue stripe (fire resistant) in 100' rolls on internet and the $ is very low.
Check the factory service manual electrical section. It has end diagrams of the various connectors, and indicates the type of connector - e.g. metripack, micropack, etc.
I am not sure about the loom, this was all Taylor stuff that I bought way back when. I am actually moving to the painless loom that you have to cut with a heat knife because it is so much easier to work with. For the red stuff, outside my original electrical issue where the crank sensor wire ran right next to the header, I have not had any melting issues.
Ill take a pic of the original elbow. I also removed the resonance tube and put in an aluminum plug, but it still hung too low. I could have cut the tub, and cut down the plug, but I was not feeling very hacky.
IDK but when I bought my F-body elbow it had that part sticking out/down and I just cut it off. It did not have a hole "in" to the elbow itself. Back then it was for a F-body, IDK. Would have to dig through receipts to find a part #. It was purchased from a guy named Dal who at the time supported the B-body community with "at cost" parts he worked at a dealership
I bought the elbow because I eliminated what was referred to as "home base" which was the plastic resonator that sat on top of the b-body LT1but there was a 3" hole in top of those elbows that resonator went in so you needed to plug that hole when removing "home base"...many used a Hockey puc to do that. I just bought the F-body elbow instead
Your solid one will work. Yeah it would present more heat soak than a rubber one but IDK to what extent that would affect your HP if any
IDK but when I bought my F-body elbow it had that part sticking out/down and I just cut it off. It did not have a hole "in" to the elbow itself. Back then it was for a F-body, IDK. Would have to dig through receipts to find a part #. It was purchased from a guy named Dal who at the time supported the B-body community with "at cost" parts he worked at a dealership
I bought the elbow because I eliminated what was referred to as "home base" which was the plastic resonator that sat on top of the b-body LT1but there was a 3" hole in top of those elbows that resonator went in so you needed to plug that hole when removing "home base"...many used a Hockey puc to do that. I just bought the F-body elbow instead
Your solid one will work. Yeah it would present more heat soak than a rubber one but IDK to what extent that would affect your HP if any
Sounds like you had a 1LE (low production option) intake elbow. It had the projection for the silencer, but there was no opening inside. The non-1LE elbow (meaning almost all of the F-Body’s) had an opening for the silencer.
From what I understand he 1LE rubber elbow has the a small part that hangs down, but does not penetrate into elbow itself; that is likely what you have. This ends up being cleaner since the opti vent hole needed to be deleted which I had just plugged with black rtv.
Yes I have the 1LE elbow. Thanks for "refreshing" my memory. IDK if they are still available to buy. It has the port for the blue vac nipple of opti vent harness
I was able to pop out the fuse terminal today using really small allen wrenches after identifying the terminal style GM Con-III series terminal and what held them in the box.
Before I start changing any wiring, the fuse for the air pump is already switched power with a 12 gauge feed wire powering the air pump, abs and fan/accy. Since there is already a fused, switched connection, that already had a 20 amp load, I should just need to wire the pump to the cold side of the air pump fuse, right? I thought it was strange that this fuse still had power with the air pump relay removed.
I started digging into the service manual, and what I am seeing doesn't make any sense to me.
The description says that the orange wire coming from the fuse is hot at all times. Does that mean hot when the car is on? Battery connected, key off, I get no voltage at this point. Key on, 12V. Any ideas? I could just rewire the relay, but if fuse 7 is already a switch power feed, I would rather not reinvent the wheel.
“Hot at all times” means it comes directly from the battery, and does not pass through the ignition switch. Typically, there is a fusible link in the wire that supplies that power, at the red “+” box near the battery. Look for the “power distribution” diagram to confirm. The PCM supplies the ground to the control side of the relay, and that can only happen when the PCM has switched power.
When measuring the voltage at pin E1 or E5, what are you using as a ground?
“Hot at all times” means it comes directly from the battery, and does not pass through the ignition switch. Typically, there is a fusible link in the wire that supplies that power, at the red “+” box near the battery. Look for the “power distribution” diagram to confirm. The PCM supplies the ground to the control side of the relay, and that can only happen when the PCM has switched power.
When measuring the voltage at pin E1 or E5, what are you using as a ground?
Reading over some of the other diagrams I figured hot meant always connected. I had not yet tested at the relay, I was testing at the air pump fuse. With the fuse in, I measured across the fuse contacts key on and key off. I also verified the feed side by testing the pin to the radiator support ground.
I must be missing something with how this circuit it working.
04-03-2020, 09:10 AM
