Injuneer

I would only consider very spotty, limited wrap. The cerametallic coating should limit the most damaging aspect of wrapping mild steel - the low carbon steel gets so hot (1,000+ degrees) that the iron combines with the oxygen in the air, and creates a flaking layer of rust. Plus the extreme heat cycling can cause stress cracking of welds. The ceramettalic coating (inside and outside of tubes) reflects the heat in the exhaust gasses, keeps it in the gas, limiting heat buildup in the tube metal..

The less wrap you use, the better. Applying multiple layers to one sIde, using clamps might work if space is very limited. Or using a sheet of insulating material between the header and filter. Too bad asbestos is so evil.

Can I assume you do not have the factory oil cooler the lengthens the filter assembly?

Injuneer

PS: There are ready-made shields and insulating wraps for the starter. I had issues with a low mile factory starter (warranty replacement, so no too old) due to my AS&M mid-lengths. I replaced it with a CVR Pro- Torque starter, that had a body that could be rotated to multiple positions away from the headers. I think JEGS started selling the CVR under their own name.

DrewHMS97SS

Thanks Fred.

The oil cooler has been removed. The speed shop had a K&N filter that was about an inch shorter and was able to slip in without much issue. I also bought new plugs since the back 4 were pretty well soaked. I just need to get the exhaust all back together and the plugs in to give it another try.

I was having issues getting the IAC down to acceptable levels. The Terminator was reading 58% (roughly 116 steps) when idling warm. I was able to find info about adding the hold between the IAC chambers similar to what was on the stock unit. I will start by setting the IAC again then take it on a short drive.

97 6SPEED Z

Okay, I'm gonna jump in here with a question, and hopefully some (helpful?), comments about how I "broke in" my 396 stroker engine just ..... two short months ago.

First the question, Drew were the Autolite 3924 spark plugs you're showing photos of NEW when you built this engine? In other words, do they JUST have 20 minutes of "run time" on them from that Golen suggested 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm, "break in" period? (Please tell me they ....... don't?)

Next, Fred has made a few GREAT comments in this thread, (as always!), but maybe you're standing too close to the trees .... to see the forest. The iron "powder" you're seeing on your magnetic drain plug is indeed coming from your piston rings. But, the amount of "powder" you're seeing is ....... EXCESSIVE, and ....... is most probably being caused, (as Fred has already suggested), by fuel "washing down" your rings because you were running SOOOOOOO .... rich!

Now, as promised, here is how I "broke in" my recent engine build. Filled the crankcase with the cheapest 5W-30 NON synthetic oil I could find, primed the engine with a drill motor prior to installing the intake manifold, started the engine and ran it for about 15-20 minutes at VARYING engine rpm between idle (900 rpm) and 3,000 rpm. Immediately after running, drained the oil and changed the oil filter, to (hopefully), flush all the engine assembly lube I used, during the build, re-filled with fresh 5W-30 NON synthetic oil (still the cheapest brand I could find!), spun on a new filter, and have been driving it for two (2) months now. When I get to 3,000-4,000 miles on this 2nd oil change, I plan to switch to synthetic oil.

Also, Fred is right (AGAIN!) .... the black "stuff" you seeing being leaked from you header collector is most likely a mixture of carbon and fuel from that MUCH too rich startup.

And finally, the shortest oil filter you will find for the LT1 engine is a Purolater L15313 filter, and ...... using that filter should help you with that little header clearance problem.

Just my two (2) cents.

DrewHMS97SS

I have caught what Fred has said.

The bearing clearances in my engine require a different viscosity, and the engine builder has specified break in oil specifically. From what I understand, the break in oil lacks all detergents and is lower on lubricants to allow break in, so the amount of fuzz on the drain plug would be higher than the conventional oil. From the conversation with Golen today, they didn't think there was an issue at this point. They requested a refill of break in oil and some driving as discussed with the break in process, then change the filter again and inspect.

The rich running was all at lower RPM, while the Terminator was figuring our what was needed via the wide band. Fred's comments were not lost on me, and thus was my worry about the fuzz and what fueled my decision to drain the oil. The break in process detailed called for the filter to be changed only, running the break in oil until 500 miles. The wide band was reading at 14.4-14.8 while the engine got up to temp and learning began. Yes, these plugs are new and only have about 30 minutes of run time. New plugs have been purchased.

For priming, I performed this process twice: originally when I was putting everything together earlier this year, then popped the intake and did it again a couple of weeks ago before starting up.

I appreciate the filter info, but for the moment think I am okay. Oil pressure has been solid between 60-85 psi depending on RPM, so I am not sure the heat has impacted it as yet.

Don’t get me wrong, I am not sure I am out of the woods, but feel better after talking to Golen. The next test is to lightly test drive, then check the filter again.

DrewHMS97SS

I have also scheduled a remote session with the tuner so we can look at the next start up live to verify the AFR and other sensor reads that I have been looking at. I am hoping to have everything back together and the car ready for tomorrow evening.

Injuneer

Is there some feature of the ECU "learning" procedure that would explain the extremely sooty appearance of the rear cylinders on each side? Seems like something is unbalanced, front to back.

Does the ECU control each bank independently, like the stock PCM, or both banks simultaneously? If independently, where is the wide-band sensor located?

Leaks in the exhaust before the wideband are going to make it run rich. Make sure everything it tightened up. Is the exhaust after the wideband installed?

97 6SPEED Z

Leaking fuel injectors in the 5,7,6, and 8 "holes"??? Maybe play "musical chairs" with the injectors and see if the problem ...... follows???

Also, I'm currently "self" tuning my 396 engine using TunerCat on my OBD I conversion PCM, so if you can "adapt" a "starting" tune to your PCM/ECM programing system ...... I can correct for your 383 displacement and injector size, and ..... send you a pretty good "starting point" for your system to "learn" .......... from???

DrewHMS97SS

The Terminator is only capable of a single wide band sensor unfortunately; you have to step up to the Dominator to use two. Currently I have the sensor installed in the driver side header. I am thinking about having the O2 bung that came with the system installed in the x-pipe once the car is out and running so I can get a reading from both sides together. The software does have the ability to change percentages per cylinder, so if we are still seeing imbalances, I am planning on adding/removing from the impacted cylinders based on what was seen.

The full exhaust is installed behind the headers. Since I had to take the header off to get the old oil filter out, the header has been bolted down again and everything is tight.

Circling back to heat and the headers, I picked up a wrap for the starter. I am working with Jason Short on a 1996 Corvette starter, so that should help some as well. I will keep the CRV starter in mind if heat is an issue. I will also look at wrapping the header in the area just around the filter and oil pan wing.

DrewHMS97SS

I would be happy for another pair of eyes on the tune if you wanted to install the Terminator X V2 software. Let me know if so, I can shoot you the base file to take a look. (https://www.holley.com/support/resou...Fuel_Injection Look for the V2 software)

97 6SPEED Z

Drew, when I go to the Holley website you've linked above, and look for the "V2 software" that you've referenced..... I'm seeing this:

Terminator X V2 Revision Log - contains updated V1 information, V2 support for GM Gen V LT DI/VVT, and GEN III HEMI VVT and 46RE Transmission Control. Also includes the V1 to V2 calibration update and firmware update information.

It looks to me that this program is specific to the NEW Gen V (i.e. "5") Direct Injected/VVT LT1 engines, and Gen III Mopar Hemi's, etc., etc. Did you send me the wrong link, or reference within the link??? Unless I've really missed something here, the Terminator X V2 software should have nothing to do with your Gen II (i.e. "2") '97 LT1 stroker motor??? Help me out now ..... what am I missing here???

DrewHMS97SS

The Terminator X is a ECU capable of controlling many different engines; it is all based on configuration of the tune. My engine is 24X swapped with a Torqhead signal kit, which is what allows the Terminator to work in the first place as there is nothing that can be done with the optispark. It basically thinks it is a 24x LS with a different firing order. The V1/V2 is a choice, the ECU firmware has the ability to update similar to the firmware on your phone. To be able to run the newer Gen V engines, there is an external injector driver that is required (I believe because of low impedance injectors) which required an updated firmware for the ECU to know how to operate. Because the firmware also included other enhancements, such as additional pre-configured injectors, I opted to update the ECU to V2 right out of the box. So to answer your question, V2 has nothing to do with my gen II LT1, and everything to do with being on the latest version of ECU firmware.

In any case, after working with the tuner today it was determined that there is an issue with the injectors. Either the data we found for the Lucas/Delphi injectors is incorrect, or the injectors are leaky/sticking. I needed to upgrade to 80# injectors anyway to support the super charger, so I am just going to go that route directly. Siemens Deka was suggest, does anyone have anything positive or negative to say about them?

Injuneer

Have you heard of FIC?

https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/

very knowledgeable, and he sells Holley, although mainly the Sniper.

97 6SPEED Z

First off Drew you did an excellent job of explaining your Terminator X ECU system to me, which unfortunately........... I am TOTALLY unfamiliar with sooooooo ......... do stick with your current tuner guy for help with it.

But, it is good to learn that your current problem may be related to your fuel injectors, and, since you're looking to "upgrade" them anyway ..... that change ........ becomes a "no brainer".

97 6SPEED Z

And remember too that your ECU, (and programmer!), need to "know" your injector flow rate ...... at the fuel pressure that the injector "sees". An injector is always rated at a specific fuel pressure. An 80#/hr injector can usually "flow" anywhere from say 40 to 120 #/hr, and still function well within say a 1:3 fuel pressure ratio.