2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
#16
Re: 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
Well I guess ill be the test dummy..but I think Ill be fine. Ill be right around 600rw with a stock crank,Forged I-beams and a set of SRP pistons.(oh and a studded 2 bolt block) since this is my first turbo motor...id feel much safer playing with a 2000$ lower end(thats pretty much total) than a fully built 4,000$+ bottom end and blow it up trying to work the bugs out of my car.
#17
Re: 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
600RWHP, Whew, that would be pushing the envelope. Everything would have to be Spot On of course but still I think the service life of the main bearings would be compromised.
Dean
Dean
#19
Re: 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
Originally Posted by TransAm396
Well I guess ill be the test dummy..but I think Ill be fine. Ill be right around 600rw with a stock crank,Forged I-beams and a set of SRP pistons.(oh and a studded 2 bolt block) since this is my first turbo motor...id feel much safer playing with a 2000$ lower end(thats pretty much total) than a fully built 4,000$+ bottom end and blow it up trying to work the bugs out of my car.
#20
Re: 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
Your best chance to make this combo live is to keep the rpms down.
If you could peak at 5600-5800 it would REALLY help, but I don't know if that is possible with your setup.
If you could peak at 5600-5800 it would REALLY help, but I don't know if that is possible with your setup.
#23
Re: 2 bolt vs. 4 bolt main
Just like I NEEDED a dual roller chain with heads/cam but my stock chain did perfect. Just like you NEED a sumped tank/external pump for anything over 600..but someone on here is making 713rw on a single intank...Or just like an LT1 cant take over a 100 shot stock..when my first 93 with 133k miles went through about 10 bottles of 150shot with a stock pump,injectors and 93 octane..and never had a problem. I have everything I need for my goals and I think ill be fine with it. If i went by what everyone says Id get billet everything..people blow fully forged motors with 400hp...If its tuned right..it will hold. Theres someone on here making over 500rw with just forged pistons..he seems to be doing fine...
#24
thank you...i was going to say this exact same thing. Just like people saying you NEED a double roller..i put a new stock timing chain in my car and reved to 6600 daily..beating the **** out of it and it never gave me any problems...ill also be doing a studded 2 bolt main/stock crank in my turbo setup.(t-76-10/14psi)
#26
Im running a studded 2-bolt in my 383. The engine made 437@5800 on the dyno(flywheel). My engine builder has been building high output chevys since the 60's. He said he has never seen a cap fail. Usually a rod bolt goes before a main cap. This is coming from a guy who has run 650hp N/A I6's for thirty years with the stock blocks and 2 bolt main caps. He would also rev those engines over 7k. I think the biggest issue is in the balance of the motor. I know my SCAT rotating assembly was out of balance even though it came balanced from them. I think that is usually the problem. People just assume everything is balanced since they order it that way.
#28
i have a 383 with egale 4340 crank and h beam rods and am going to spray 150-200 and turn 6800 rpm and should put down 630rwhp on a arp stud 2 bolt main, and chevy high perf siad that the to bolts with arp bolts are stronger than the 2 bolts with 4 bolt conversion not (splayed)and there many people making over 600rwhp on the 4 bolt conversion. also the shop that did the block work siad the same.
#29
>I just used the stock LT1 block bored/stroked and clearanced. I bought their splayed caps http://www.callies.com/components/co...s/sbc_caps.htm and their
Dragon Slayer crank http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/dragonslayer.htm
Dragon Slayer crank http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/dragonslayer.htm
Thanks,
Jody J.
#30
Well I guess ill be the test dummy..but I think Ill be fine. Ill be right around 600rw with a stock crank,Forged I-beams and a set of SRP pistons.(oh and a studded 2 bolt block) since this is my first turbo motor...id feel much safer playing with a 2000$ lower end(thats pretty much total) than a fully built 4,000$+ bottom end and blow it up trying to work the bugs out of my car.
The SRP pistons are 4032 alloy and are too brittle for N2O or boost.
Richard