355 or 383
#31
why not build an off displacement motor like a 357, or a 381? but ive had decent luck when my 355 was in my Z28, just fed it a butt ton of spray and let her eat but either way your heads are going to be your bottle neck. also ive learned boosted is where its at na is fun but if you want have a fast car that is tolerable on the street you need a power adder, NA is just pointless these days.
#32
as for the 6.0" rod question, I can vouch that neither are true. my car was extremely driveable. it would start in any weather with the first twist of the key, got 15-16mpg mixed driving and I always let the car warm up for a few min.s before I drove off. NO quirks either while driving down the road. my car did leak oil due to my gutting the valve covers. it would seep out the center bolt holes. so I cant tell you how much oil it burned. but I can say after 4 years of driving, 8K miles no oil residue on the spark plugs and the pistons look very good and pretty clean. usual carbon but thats it. I pulled the heads cause I had cheap single valve springs and one broke last fall so i bent a valve. now Im returning the car to bolt on status for sale. the 6.0" rods are supposed to broaden the power band by raising the torque/HP down low w/o affecting the upper parts of the power band.
#33
awesome definitly getting the 6.0s then gonna be awesome feed it lots of nitrous
on the other note
you should be ashamed of yourself i still am iffy about the zr1
on the other note
you should be ashamed of yourself i still am iffy about the zr1
#34
alright so i had my 383 built fully forged with 6.0 h beams and forged pistons with hellfire rings gapped for nitrous. now im wondering if i need to plum my fuel rails and if the racetronix 42lbd injectors will work with the stock rail or if i need a resistor pack or something. i dont know if stock ones are high or low impedence. im getting my heads and manfold ported and having a custom cam ground for the beast. anybody have any horsepower predictions?
#37
well you dont typically get a whole lot more HP, I think due to the intake being the same. and the heads are typically the same. but you get a lower rpm peak power, and a TON more low end torque as well as a WIDER power band. not really peaky like a 350 with all the same stuff on it.
#38
383 will make another 15-20 ft lbs of TQ but not any more peak HP. It will make a lil more HP under the curve due to the added compression (if you have the right pistons) and have more HP/TQ at 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000 and 5500 RPM.
A 383 with ported LT1 heads will make peak power at around 5900-6200 RPM (depending on how nice the heads are and how large the cam is) but it will always be about 300 RPM lower than a 355 with the same heads/cam. Same haeds/cam in a 355 would amke the same HP but at 6500 RPM.
Even though the 383 makes peak HP at 6200 RPM, you can still have the HP #'s stay there until 6500 or even 6700-6800 RPM if the cam is larger enough.
383 will usually make a street car faster, especially if theer is not alot of gear/stall. If you have lots of gear/stall and a lighht car, the 355 (if shifted at 6800 RPM or higher) can be even faster since the 383 will be a lil RPM limited. Not everybody wants to spoin there 355 6800 RPM (or higher) and even if so, a cam made for this will not have much low end power so street manors will not be so greata nd you needs lots of gear/stall to make it work.
lots of answers to the question (355 vs 383) but a street car with 3.73 gears and 3600 stall (or less gear/stall) will be better off with the 383 and have more street manors.
The people that use a 383 with stock heads are killing themselves and the $$$ spent towards the 383 should go towards a nice set of heads and corrct cam for there set up and put back on a 355. The car will be faster and more fun to drive than a 383 with a catalog cam and stock heads.
Lloyd
A 383 with ported LT1 heads will make peak power at around 5900-6200 RPM (depending on how nice the heads are and how large the cam is) but it will always be about 300 RPM lower than a 355 with the same heads/cam. Same haeds/cam in a 355 would amke the same HP but at 6500 RPM.
Even though the 383 makes peak HP at 6200 RPM, you can still have the HP #'s stay there until 6500 or even 6700-6800 RPM if the cam is larger enough.
383 will usually make a street car faster, especially if theer is not alot of gear/stall. If you have lots of gear/stall and a lighht car, the 355 (if shifted at 6800 RPM or higher) can be even faster since the 383 will be a lil RPM limited. Not everybody wants to spoin there 355 6800 RPM (or higher) and even if so, a cam made for this will not have much low end power so street manors will not be so greata nd you needs lots of gear/stall to make it work.
lots of answers to the question (355 vs 383) but a street car with 3.73 gears and 3600 stall (or less gear/stall) will be better off with the 383 and have more street manors.
The people that use a 383 with stock heads are killing themselves and the $$$ spent towards the 383 should go towards a nice set of heads and corrct cam for there set up and put back on a 355. The car will be faster and more fun to drive than a 383 with a catalog cam and stock heads.
Lloyd
#39
--Alan
#43
#44
Im an A4 with a 383 with LPE/Eric Bradby ported stockers with 2.00/1.56s...the cam is a weenie 226/234 Joe Overton/Erson cam...The car made a whopping 375 rwhp on a calibrated Mustang dyno...However, the times mph in my sig would suggest otherwise...The nice thing about the 383 is the lower rpms needed to have fun...I think one of the reasons why my bottom end has been together for 13 years is that everything is done by 6300 rpm...That and good parts selection...But its nice not to have to run a huge converter and big gears...
--Alan
--Alan
I love the higher lift/lower duration cams on a nice high compression NA LT1. Driveable combo with power on tap all the time, no bottles or boost tunes to worry about .
If you can afford to do it right, def go 383!