LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

383 build

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Old 11-29-2020 | 01:38 PM
  #61  
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Re: 383 build

well I tell ya what. Thanks for info. As suspected I unplugged the 02 sensors and it drove very smoothly minus that it wouldn’t idle
has a ton of power considering everything.


sorry I was confusing the SES / check engine light for the security light. I’m good to go on the security/ key problem.

can I simply replace the 02 sensors now. ?
Old 11-29-2020 | 02:27 PM
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Re: 383 build

Originally Posted by Jwdw1978
Well I’m up and running......

my check engine was on until today it when off out of the blu then came back on. Temperature is doing really well.
Originally Posted by Jwdw1978

sorry I was confusing the SES / check engine light for the security light. I’m good to go on the security/ key problem.
Does not compute....
Old 11-29-2020 | 02:41 PM
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Re: 383 build

I had a misunderstanding when mentioning by you above referencing the ses light

when you mentioned it I was thinking the security light

I’ve resolved the security issue start by bypassing the TDR and the pcm vats delete.

now the check engine and poor running motor seems to be due to faulty 02 reading due to faulty sensors or due to my poor welding on the exhaust given the fact that the muffler has fallen of twice
surely that has a lot to do with it. I’ll get the exhaust done then focus on the 02 issues.

I now understand SES light refers to check engine light on the instrument panel.

Thanks a bunch. Surely God is great.

Old 11-29-2020 | 02:45 PM
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Re: 383 build

I was simply stating the check engine light did come on and off indicating that there was an issue going on with the setup
im learning these fuel injected motors.

Old 11-29-2020 | 04:29 PM
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Re: 383 build

And when the SES light comes on, the diagnostic system has picked up a fault in the engine management system. It sets a code and stores it in the PCM (unless battery is disconnected). You pull the code out of the PCM with a scanner. That code MAY be just what you need to see what is causing your problems. In any case it is most likely pointing to something that needs to be fixed. Much cheaper than playing “parts replacement roulette”......
Old 11-29-2020 | 04:42 PM
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Re: 383 build

Absolutely. I can now back off and get it scanned after the exhaust is properly welded at the flanges.
Other than that this thing runs smoothly
.
appreciate your help
Old 11-29-2020 | 08:54 PM
  #67  
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Re: 383 build

Why not scan it now, before the code is lost? When they weld the exhaust they usually disconnect the battery.
Old 11-29-2020 | 09:52 PM
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Re: 383 build

I’ve already welded the exhaust back best I could and replaced the 02 sensors. I’ll let you know how it goes when I drive it soon as weather permits. I started the car without giving it gas so that’s a good sign. Check engine was off then came back on.
Will deleting the air pump or ac delete cause the ses light to come on ?

or anything else I’ve done with the build cause it to throw codes?

I kinda figured I’d be stuck looking at the light anyhow given all the changes.

thank you.
Old 11-29-2020 | 10:42 PM
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Re: 383 build

When you pull the code, we can continue.
Old 11-29-2020 | 11:22 PM
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Re: 383 build

Yes sir.
Old 12-05-2020 | 02:10 PM
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Re: 383 build

Po100
maf
Old 12-05-2020 | 02:11 PM
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Re: 383 build

P0100
Old 12-05-2020 | 03:21 PM
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Re: 383 build

P0100 seems to be more common on the 1997 than other years. It usually results from a break somewhere internal to the harness on the pink wire that supplies the MAF sensor with 12 volt switched power. Key on, take the harness connector off the MAF sensor, and check for 12 volts between the pink harness wire and the black/hire harness wire (ground). If no voltage, checbetween the pink wire and a good chassis ground. If still no voltage, you have a wiring problem. If you have 12 volts, the sensor is the problem. That can be checked with the engine running, connector on sensor, by measuring the frequency on the yellow signal wire. At idle, should be in range of 2,000 - 2,500 Hz.

When P0100 sets, the PCM ignores the MAF sensor and defaults to speed-density method of calculating mass air flow, rather than measuring it directly with the sensor. With a highly modified engine, that can cause problems if the tuner has not updated the volumetric efficiency (VE) tables in the PCM.
Old 12-06-2020 | 10:22 AM
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Re: 383 build

If you determine the issue is the MAF and not the wiring in the harness, I have a stock replacement by Doorman that I never used. 180ish because of the core, I’ll sell for 100 + shipping.
Old 12-26-2021 | 01:25 AM
  #75  
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Re: 383 build

I don't remember our last correspondence but I did finally get the car running. It turned out that I had the car tuned for a screened Maf sensor. After sending the co.puter back to have it repro for no screen and drilled a hole in the throttle plate the car runs great.
now I'm having problems with the alarm. Previously it worked fine after bypassing the vats. The car would start and run no issues. Now it starts but the alarm is malfunctioning. Hazards flashing and chimming for several MI minutes after I turn key on. Cycle like this on and off for the duration the key is on. Doors will not unlock.

I tried the program function to disable the alarm with no luck.
how can I resolve this ?
I suppose having bypassed the vats with the new key is now causing this issiue.
I drove the car for 1500 miles on the new .otor and then this started.




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