383 help
#3
balancer? yes
flywheel? nope.
The LT1's are typically externally balanced in the rear, and internally balanced up front. I know it sounds hoaky, but what it really means is that the flywheel is balanced with the assembly, while the balancer/hub is not.
You "could" have the engine internally balanced, then have the stock flywheel zero-balanced as well. But that would include tearing the motor open, cleaning/weighing all parts, and spinning the crankshaft/bob weights in a balancer. A bit more than it looks like you want to do.
Best idea is to get the 383 AND flywheel it was balanced with. Only other option is to internally balance it and 0 the flywheel. (going through the effort of balancing the whole engine with the stock flywheel... just to do it again once you realize a Street Twin is the only realistic option for an LT1 of that torque ... is pointless IMHO).
get the engine & flywheel or expect to have it internally balanced.
flywheel? nope.
The LT1's are typically externally balanced in the rear, and internally balanced up front. I know it sounds hoaky, but what it really means is that the flywheel is balanced with the assembly, while the balancer/hub is not.
You "could" have the engine internally balanced, then have the stock flywheel zero-balanced as well. But that would include tearing the motor open, cleaning/weighing all parts, and spinning the crankshaft/bob weights in a balancer. A bit more than it looks like you want to do.
Best idea is to get the 383 AND flywheel it was balanced with. Only other option is to internally balance it and 0 the flywheel. (going through the effort of balancing the whole engine with the stock flywheel... just to do it again once you realize a Street Twin is the only realistic option for an LT1 of that torque ... is pointless IMHO).
get the engine & flywheel or expect to have it internally balanced.
#4
the crank is extternaly balanced so i ccan take it to the machine shop and have it internaly balanced.... everything is brand new.... if i do that i need to do what with my fly wheel and harmonic balancer
#5
warning: internally balancing a crank designed for a 1-piece rear main seal (like all LT1's have) may be difficult.
Essientally you'll want to have the flywheel neutral balanced (aka zero-balanced) and then use that to externally balance the crank.
Essientally you'll want to have the flywheel neutral balanced (aka zero-balanced) and then use that to externally balance the crank.
#6
Just built mine and I'm using both stock balancer and flywheel. Either way, a lot of times the assembly will say that its balanced but it rarely is. The machine shop will have to internally balance it. I took down my balancer and stock flywheel. The drilled off the weights and made a couple extra holes in the flywheel. Car runs like a champ.
#8
Simple my man....either way you aint gonna do crap. Take the kit to the machine shop thats gonna do the clearancing and stuff. Take the balancer and flywheel with it. Tell them "I'm rebuilding this motor and need it balanced". Poof.... thats it brother in a nut shell.
#10
yeah you can use the stock parts. I forgot to mention....take the oil pan down as well. Dunno what kit you got. But most Eagle rods have a problem with clearing the pan and some "massaging" might be necessary. I just went with the Canton because I didn't want to loose the windage tray.
#11
Just do like SJS says and take the whole sheebang to the machine shop and say you want it internally balanced, will cost a few hundred dollors but very worth it.
I had mine internally balanced (eagle stroker kit) and he had to add only 4- 1 ounce slugs to the crank. I use the stock untouched flexplate and balancer.
I had mine internally balanced (eagle stroker kit) and he had to add only 4- 1 ounce slugs to the crank. I use the stock untouched flexplate and balancer.
#13
Originally posted by WS Sick
I had mine internally balanced (eagle stroker kit) and he had to add only 4- 1 ounce slugs to the crank. I use the stock untouched flexplate and balancer.
I had mine internally balanced (eagle stroker kit) and he had to add only 4- 1 ounce slugs to the crank. I use the stock untouched flexplate and balancer.
#14
Yes ,the weight is still there too. Allows me to use stock external parts. no fancy shmancy weightless flexplate purchase. If you bring it all to them and say balance it they will do it. If you want to be dificult and have then completely neutral balance the flexplate and have them balance the crank without it then thats your choice (will cost more ,mallory metal costs$$)
#15
That'll work fine with a flex-plate, but I still say the flywheel should be 0-balanced and the engine balanced internally.
Why? because its a 383!!
Think about this for a second... what happens to the stock clutch under a stock engine? it burns up. A 383 will toast stock clutches easily. The "solution" to any LT1 clutch problems is a Street Twin dual-disc clutch.
He may not have funds for a $1000 clutch now... but he'll need it. Instead of balancing it externally with his stock flywheel... he can get it internally balanced, then swap flywheels at will.
The Street Twin uses a netrual-balanced, thin, steel (or aluminum option) flywheel. 383 will need it anyway, so why balance the engine twice?
If you "just take it to the shop" they'll external balance it like most 1-piece seals are and you'll just end up back there again.
Why? because its a 383!!
Think about this for a second... what happens to the stock clutch under a stock engine? it burns up. A 383 will toast stock clutches easily. The "solution" to any LT1 clutch problems is a Street Twin dual-disc clutch.
He may not have funds for a $1000 clutch now... but he'll need it. Instead of balancing it externally with his stock flywheel... he can get it internally balanced, then swap flywheels at will.
The Street Twin uses a netrual-balanced, thin, steel (or aluminum option) flywheel. 383 will need it anyway, so why balance the engine twice?
If you "just take it to the shop" they'll external balance it like most 1-piece seals are and you'll just end up back there again.