383 help
12-02-2003, 04:39 PM
#17
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Location: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
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I agree that internal would be nice and in his situation if money allows having the fancy shmancy stuff there will work, just remember to let your machinist know what you are doing. bring all your parts with you and at least let him see them, Stock flywheel or not the machinist needs to know what alls gonna be bolted to the thing to effect the balance.
12-02-2003, 04:45 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Middeltown NY
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what about the SPEC Clutch, 1993-1997 LT1 F-body, Stage 4
from thunder racing ...... does that come with a fly wheel if not is my stock one good enought or a new stock one good enought
from thunder racing ...... does that come with a fly wheel if not is my stock one good enought or a new stock one good enought
12-02-2003, 06:51 PM
#19
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Join Date: May 2003
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Originally posted by WS Sick
Yes ,the weight is still there too. Allows me to use stock external parts. no fancy shmancy weightless flexplate purchase. If you bring it all to them and say balance it they will do it. If you want to be dificult and have then completely neutral balance the flexplate and have them balance the crank without it then thats your choice (will cost more ,mallory metal costs$$)
Yes ,the weight is still there too. Allows me to use stock external parts. no fancy shmancy weightless flexplate purchase. If you bring it all to them and say balance it they will do it. If you want to be dificult and have then completely neutral balance the flexplate and have them balance the crank without it then thats your choice (will cost more ,mallory metal costs$$)
12-03-2003, 09:10 AM
#20
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Location: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
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And your point is what? A 400 crank is externally balanced as well but needs a special BALANCER on the nose,The newer cranks 1 peice need a neutral balnced balancer, when they came out with the 1 peice rear seal cranks in 86 they had to offset the loss of weight on the OUTSIDE of the crank flange by adding a weight to the flywheel to offset it. The question was can he have the crank balanced to use stock peices and that is an undeniable YES! I had mine balanced with stock parts and I think its a good idea, allows you to use readily available peices.
12-03-2003, 05:11 PM
#21
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Join Date: May 2003
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So which is it? You said you had it internally balanced, then you agreed (I think you agreed) that you had it externally balanced. If your trying to help someone with advice, you sure are confusing him(and everyone else) 
That's my point. And ANY crank he purchases is going to have to be balanced.
That's my point. And ANY crank he purchases is going to have to be balanced.
12-04-2003, 10:00 AM
#22
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Location: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
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I'm sorry I'm confusing you, But if you read what I said, take it all to the machinist and have him balance it all together, let him know what fly/flex you want to run, let him know what balancer /dampener you want to run etc.
I think you are confused about late model cranks (since you want to get technical) the cranks are INTERNALLY balanced from seal to seal. the extra weight (as I said before) on the fly/flex is to compensate for the extra weight on the FLANGE of the crank, outside of the rear seal, not inside. If you go buy a flywheel or flexplate for your car and just say you want one for your model year they will give you the proper one that you dont have to modify, this is my point. You dont have to buy one balanced like a 400s, or without any weights, you can buy and instal without worrying about wether to remove something or not. This is what I did with mine and this is what I recommend.
If you have a clutch problem then you may want to have the flange of your crank neutrally balanced and go with a lightweight flywheel.
If youve ever seen the front balancer for a 400 it has holes and weight added to it(and taken from one side ) this was because the crank throw wieghts, inside are not heavy enough to offset the weight of the pistons and rods from the thrust bearing forward. Then (using the same older flange in back) they add weight to the flex/fly to compensate for the lack of wieght behind the thrust bearing. therefor to externall balance in a LT1 you would still have to remove the weight from the fly/flex and add the appropriate amount in the right spot to externally balance it.
Moral is (as said before) take the whole shebang to the machineshop and have him make it where you can use your stock peices if you so desire!
I think you are confused about late model cranks (since you want to get technical) the cranks are INTERNALLY balanced from seal to seal. the extra weight (as I said before) on the fly/flex is to compensate for the extra weight on the FLANGE of the crank, outside of the rear seal, not inside. If you go buy a flywheel or flexplate for your car and just say you want one for your model year they will give you the proper one that you dont have to modify, this is my point. You dont have to buy one balanced like a 400s, or without any weights, you can buy and instal without worrying about wether to remove something or not. This is what I did with mine and this is what I recommend.
If you have a clutch problem then you may want to have the flange of your crank neutrally balanced and go with a lightweight flywheel.
If youve ever seen the front balancer for a 400 it has holes and weight added to it(and taken from one side ) this was because the crank throw wieghts, inside are not heavy enough to offset the weight of the pistons and rods from the thrust bearing forward. Then (using the same older flange in back) they add weight to the flex/fly to compensate for the lack of wieght behind the thrust bearing. therefor to externall balance in a LT1 you would still have to remove the weight from the fly/flex and add the appropriate amount in the right spot to externally balance it.
Moral is (as said before) take the whole shebang to the machineshop and have him make it where you can use your stock peices if you so desire!
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