1badvette

Hello guys I have been dealing with motors and what not for quite some time now... But would like for a few of the more experienced people with the lt1 to look over this and see what they think???

Here is what i have i about have it all wrapped up to start the motor build....

Forged 383 SB
-scat crank
-scat h beam rods
-speed pro pistons
-cc306 cam
-has been decked

Lt4 (le3) heads
-2.08, 1.60 valves
-port matched to lt4 intake... intake port matched to TB
-1.6 rr
all worked by LE
pacesetter long tubes
58mm arizona speed and marine TB

I was just wondering what suggestions some people may have before putting heads on block, and assembly and start up....

im not for sure what size push rods to run, input would be nice on that for people with similar build....

Just any input on anything would be nice, im not verry verry familar with the lt1.... so bad things or good things will help lol...

Also i plan on spraying the motor with about a 200 shot....

What kind of numbers all people putting down on motor and on nitrous with a set up familar to this???

THANKS CHRIS

Chevyguy358

are those speed pro pistons forged?? if they arent you prolly shouldn't spray that much

SS NSTAG8R

I got something close to the same build... Except my bottom end is factory. what would you think would be a safe spray? 100 shot?

bombebomb

Well "safe" is debateable, but from what iv read thats about the max for "safe".

To the poster, make sure you have a nice forged piston, and make sure the rings are gapped properly.

MachinistOne

For a 200 shot I feel that you really should be buying a set of better pistons from JE, Wiseco, Diamond, etc. Use a 6.0" rod and have the assembly balanced with a good ATI balancer.

For the pushrods, any one of the .080" wall one-piece rods from comp (hi-tech), manley, or trick flow will be just fine.

Use head studs and good gaskets.

slomarao

on motor depending on trans/ rearend.
400-440rwhp
420-440rwtq
n2o
525-550rwhp
575-625rwtq
I assume you will be running long tube headers, etc, etc.

Is there a reason why your going with the cc306 rather than llyods le3,4 cam?

I would also consider different pistons for the 200 hit. Or at least have the rings gaped for n2o use. A n2o piston will make a big diff in the life of the engine(well if it gets a decent amount of juice threw it) so if the motor isnt built i would really try to get some other slugs in there.
good luck

kline454

I wound look into a better cam for that setup, the speed pro pistons are not the best to be spraying a 200 shot, but im sure with a good tune they will get you by for now.

aarontracy

thanks for all the good input so far guys!!! the pistons are forged... and the reason of the cc306 cam is bc that is the cam that i am getting with the short block!!!
but does anyone have any suggestions with the push rods... and also do you think there is going to be any issues with valve to piston clearance...

actually why i am asking all of these questions is because i am abt to be heading to florida for vacation and will not be starting on this until i get back, and i just want to know what and what not im going to have to worry about while im gone!!!

Thanks again guys!!

1badvette

sorry guys i accidently posted under my cousins name, he was logged in on my computer and i didnt notice!!!

1badvette

Also input on what kind a size injectors to run would be nice!!
thanks chris

kline454

30-36lbs injectors

Chevyguy358

Get yourself a set of chomolly or hardened pushrods...the legnth will depend on your setup. For example whether the block is decked, or heads milled etc

Injuneer

A 30#/HR injector is nowhere near large enough for an engine that can produce upwards of 420+rwHP. 36#/HR would be the minimum recommended size, and you would have no problem with running 42's.

slomarao

38's or 42's if its a wet kit. 50's or maybe even low impedence 60's if you will be using dry.
What kind of fuel system?. I think you would at least need 255 intank pump. Maybe a inline booster too, or a 340 intank and call it a day.

TitoPR221

Several questions come to mind right away:

Was the short block assembled at the machine shop? Were 4-bolt mains installed? Bolts or studs used?
Are the pistons dished? What is the static CR?
What was the resulting quench after decking?

The CC306 230°/244° will work with the 383, but the intake lift of 0.544" with 1.6 rocker is less than other cams, your target should be around 0.575" for street applications.

Get a good set of gaskets and ARP bolts and studs....

You'll need to measure your pushrods given the machining mentioned.