VK

Well, after i spun the crank bearing .. time to rebuild. Got a friend who's willing to sell some nice stuff for cheap, so i think i'll go 383 stroker. So what all needs to be done to the block, and how much u guys pay or think it will cost me to prep the block?

So far i know it needs to be:
Bored .030 over
Clearenced for the stroker crank
is that all?

I'd like to go 4 bolt main caps, but heard the block needs more prep work??

Ball park prices for this stuff would be great! thanks!

1racerdude

To do it RIGHT it will cost ya 1000-1200 at the machine shop.
Bore and hone with plates
square deck/equal deck to "0"
clearence for stroker
install caps and line bore
clean
new freeze plugs
install cam brgs
check lifter bores
Ya will need the Cloyes timing set with the oversize crank sprocket and some dished pistons if ya are going to run a set of LT1 heads.If ya get other heads with 62-64CC chambers ya can get flattops and be in the 11.5-12 to one range with static compression. Your DCR will depend on your cam.
Do get the biggest heads(most flow) ya can afford and build from there.300CFM head flow will make 600-625FWHP if everything else is spot on. That's 490-500RWHP with an A4.

SStrokerAce

To do it right for me starts at $1200+ and goes up from there.... if you want the lifter bores perfect and the cam tunnel in the block in the right spot well add $500 to it. IMHO a perfect LT1 block is around $1850.

But what you need to tell us is what you are going to do with it. Most people don't need a $1850 block unless they are trying to go 130+mph in the 1/4.

Bret

1racerdude

Ya must be talking about the one I have. I'm gonna paint it GOLD too,along with the intake.

VK

i'm looking for a 12 to high 11 sec daily driver (cept not my only vehical of course). So i don't want anything extreme at all, hell i'm not THAT far away from it with my old motor. I just might as well go to 383 since it wouldn't hurt to get a new crank anyways. Plus my buddy is giving me a good deal on all forged 383 internals for 600$ new unbalanced.

I was intending on using my stock heads, but the pistons my friend has are flat, what is that going to spell for compression? Is there something majorly wrong with doing it? I know it would REALLY pay to get heads, but i don't even have the money to rebuild the motor, let alone new heads.

SStrokerAce

You need to get the heads ported for it to run the 383 since it will open the chambers up for ya. That and a cam to match the compression.

As for block work:

Bore and hone with plates
square deck/equal deck to "0"
clearence for stroker
clean
new freeze plugs
install cam bearings
Put ARP Main Studs in it.

That's what I would do.

Bret

SStrokerAce

Well then it will look like a motor from Smokey!

Actually I was talking about what I do for a block, but I know ya like doing stuff the right way. Next LT block that gets prepped is getting all that.

Bret

VK

This is kinda off topic, but i don't wanna start a new thread for a quick simple question so.

Jegs as a OEM replacment crankshaft for my LT1 that comes pre-balanced to OEM specs. Now do i HAVE to get it balanced with my rotating assembly? Or can i install it RIGHT outa the box when it comes?

SStrokerAce

I think you can run it as is.... would I do that? No

WS Sick

My car easily does what youre wanting and I spent 1200$ on the shorblock including machining.

If youre staying conservative 4 bolt mains arent a must. Also I would just make sure the decks are even and flat no need to go "0" right off the bat.

A cast steel crank , scat 4340 rods and a nice set of forged pistons will be plenty to handle well over 400 RWHP. That way you can spend your money on the heads, cam and valvetrain.

1racerdude

If ya gonna deck it,it cost no more to go to zero. Zero is where it should be and will run better if built right.