383 vs 396
04-20-2009, 03:06 PM
#2
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Okemos, MI
Posts: 9,495
Parts to build a 396 are going to be a lot more than 3% more expensive than parts to build a 383.
Which is more important to you?
04-20-2009, 04:26 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
Head selection is FAR more important than that small displacement difference and an area where a HUGE number of folks screwup their stroker builds.
ALL the air going in and out comes and goes through the heads, if they are not right the shortblock can't do much to fix it.
ALL the air going in and out comes and goes through the heads, if they are not right the shortblock can't do much to fix it.
04-20-2009, 04:51 PM
#5
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,444
Displacement isn't the whole story.
But overall, I do agree with Jake, the 383 is a much better way to spend your money.
There's a reason you see so many guys with many years of experience behind them running 383s.
Like Dwayne was eluding to, it's the complete package, not excess in any one
component that makes (or breaks) the motor. Having a bullet-proof bottom end is
not terribly useful if you run out of money and have to skimp on the heads or valvetrain
or pick something that just doesn't fit the combo.
The longer stroke means more low-end TQ, it also means more block clearancing and more exposed cylinder wall.
Expect to be welding/filling the block and/or selecting special components to reduce/avoid clearancing issues.
The longer stroke also eats deeper into the piston skirt. But the 396 can handle "more" cam, and compresses
the curve you'd see in a smaller displacement motor.
So, "Which is better?" turns into "How fast do you want to go?", "How much do you want to spend?"
and "Are we talking about a street car, race car, or somewhere in between?".
Here's a computer model example of a 383 VS 396 using identical heads, cam, etc ....
Take it for what you feel it's worth, the idea is simply to show what the increase in displacement does to the curve.
But overall, I do agree with Jake, the 383 is a much better way to spend your money.
There's a reason you see so many guys with many years of experience behind them running 383s.
Like Dwayne was eluding to, it's the complete package, not excess in any one
component that makes (or breaks) the motor. Having a bullet-proof bottom end is
not terribly useful if you run out of money and have to skimp on the heads or valvetrain
or pick something that just doesn't fit the combo.
The longer stroke means more low-end TQ, it also means more block clearancing and more exposed cylinder wall.
Expect to be welding/filling the block and/or selecting special components to reduce/avoid clearancing issues.
The longer stroke also eats deeper into the piston skirt. But the 396 can handle "more" cam, and compresses
the curve you'd see in a smaller displacement motor.
So, "Which is better?" turns into "How fast do you want to go?", "How much do you want to spend?"
and "Are we talking about a street car, race car, or somewhere in between?".
Here's a computer model example of a 383 VS 396 using identical heads, cam, etc ....
Take it for what you feel it's worth, the idea is simply to show what the increase in displacement does to the curve.
Last edited by user 647483; 04-20-2009 at 05:05 PM.
04-20-2009, 04:59 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,456
04-21-2009, 07:21 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 80
Inches are inches, period. As for cost, a 3.75" stroke crank costs the same as a 3.875" stroke crank. As for clearancing, get the right rods and it won't be a problem. Crower Sportsman Stroker rods are the absolute best for clearance (they are a forged I-Beam design with short bolt heads). H-Beam rods tend to require much more block clearancing. Go bigger, you won't regret it. Plus you won't have to rev it as high, so it will last longer.
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