Formula408

Hi everyone I am a returning member to the board from years past. I recently dug my 12.00 95 formula out of the garage this fall and blew the motor this past fall. I am in the process of building a 4 inch stroke LT1 now and wanted some opinions. Here is a list of my parts so far...
Forged eagle crank, forged eagle hbeam stroker clearanced rods, Ross custom forged pistons w 2cc dome (12.5:1 compression) Block is bored .030 Splayed main caps, big block stlye oil pump, Milidon pan, going solid roller cam, 1.65 rockers no cam selected yet. Trick flow heads (ported not yet flowed) 2.02 1.60 64cc's stock pcm (tuned),6 speed 4.30 12 bolt 36lb inj....
I guess my question is what should be my effective rpm range for an engine like this? I am trying to piece together my last few options of parts and would like some opinions. Tell me what you guys think please.
Sorry if I left out any important stuff.

Ok4thGen

They moved it and didnt even note why, and the awnser lies within the title of your thread,
408 LT1, There is no reason to make that large of a LT1 other then just to say you have it.

FASTFATBOY

I would not go bigger than a 396. No need to. 383 really.


You can make 650 hp normally aspirated with a 383


David

quickSS

It looks like a good combo to me. Should make more torque than 383, 385, 402. I like the splayed cap plan. BBC oil pump..thumbs up.
All around looks good.
Make sure to use a windage tray in addition to the Milodon pan windage stuff, (stock LT1 tray is nice).
I would keep the rpm down to the low 6000 and rely on low rpm torque.

Karl Ellwein
Ellwein Engines

FASTFATBOY

I would do 42lb injectors for that many cubes.


Other than that, let us know on dyno numbers.

David

rskrause

If it's not too late, I would be sure to do the block clearancing before installing the mains, boring, etc. There is a SIGNIFICANT chance of hitting water with those rods and a 4" stroke. IF you don't hit water, fine. I'd do a 1/2 fill right up front. It will give the epoxy you might need something to adhere to! You will likely need a small base circle cam in any case. The heads and intake (if you use an LT1/LT4 intake) are going to limit your high rpm breathing so that is going to determine the max rpm, they probably won't support anything more than 6,500rpm, maybe less. I assume you will be using race gas? If so, it sounds too late but I would've done higher compression.

Basically, it sounds like you have made up your mind, so I am not sure what you want an opinion on. Of course, like bungholes, everyone has an opinion.

Rich

96 mikez28

It dosen't seem like you've even checked out the block yet, hope you don't have too much core shift

Formula408

Thanks for the replies everyone, Yes the 408 is in part to the fact that I want to say I have it. It also Has to do with the fact that eagle cant sell those cranks and I got my whole rotating assembly for $1700!!! total seal rings rods pistons bearings (H series) and crank. Besides Formula408 sounds better than formula 383 or 396.haha . I bought the injectors before I had decided on the build so I will have to deal with that for a while. As my parts guy said there is more than one way to skin a cat.. He gave me a pretty good idea on clearancing the block that I am going to try I'll let you know if it works out if it doesn't scatter! I've been reading a little about this epoxy stuff but haven't heard much about it. What does it involve? I went 12.5:1 becouse I wanted to get by with 104 when I could and 110 when I get serious. 104 I have more availibilty to.

Stock windage tray wont work with the splayed caps so I can't use it. Any reasonble alternatives out there. Oh ya when my last motor scattered that windage tray was mean on my engine. It held all the pieces up in there and they beat the crap out of all the cylinders, crank and everything. BTW I am not using that block.
Thanks
Aaron

rskrause

Some folks use a Devcon liquid epoxy when they are pretty sure they are going to hit water. I have the details somewhere, but a good machinist should know about it.

Rich

Formula408

Sorry, forgot about something, My main question is cam selection and valve train. Your answers have actually been more helpful than you think.
I want to make the most power I can with the combo I have purchased thus far. I have not chosen a cam yet so I guess that is my biggest concern.

This may be true but you can always learn something from everyones opinion, even if its only to learn the counterpart is an idiot....lol. thats always been my take on life.

I will have to try the epoxy trick, Thanks!
Aaron

mdacton

I bet you hit water with those rods...I was scared to death with them on a 383....ended up milling one of the bolts on each one

Find a cam grinder and contact them on the camshaft.

The epoxy is pretty common at any machine shop......but your still taking a chance. It may leak or you may be one of the few lucky ones

Formula408

Ya, I'm a little concerned with hitting water I was planning to mill the rod bolts as well. As I read more about the Devcon it sounds like a pretty good fix to the problem if its not too serioius. If I can mill the bolts enough The clearancing shouldn't be more than a 383. but I did have a buddy break through with a 383 but was using el cheapo rods. Just have to see how it goes. I'll let you guys know if anyone is interested. I am going to go small base circle too BTW.

Aaron
(Feeling Lucky)....

L.O. Green95Z

I have a milodon stroker pan and had to get new main bolts because the stock ones for the windage tray where hitting it, so I dont think he can use the stock one if he had it.

BTW theres nothing wrong with my el cheapo rods, they the same as yours.

mdacton

I used a milodon tray... and used ARP main studs with the windage tray studs on them

rskrause

The Eagle H=beams are one of the poorer rods for big stroker clearance.

Rich