Schurters LT1

I would like to no at what power level & rpm is the stock stuff in DANGER.

I would like to do a 355 build up (but money) will the stock parts last and hold

I will most likely be sping to 7000rpm
the goal is 450+rwhp (still working on this part)

If everthing is done right will this work

What is the crank rated for
what are the rods rates for
it will be a 2 bolt block
balanced
ARP everthing

Any ideas???

thx

AlexBarabas

At least in what I work with, the valvetrain stability (and propeller going supersonic lol -- but we'll leave this part out) are the first things that would be in "danger." Since your goal is 450+ rwhp, I'm assuming you wouldn't try this with a stock valvetrain or stock rods, since you'd definately need to build up on those to get to that power.

Fastbird93

Horsepower isn't going to be the killer in your situation. Just sheer force while spinning at 7000 rpm is. That's REALLY pushing it on stock components. Personally, I would not recommend it. At least for any extended repeated amount of time.

Schurters LT1

I am looking for more of what is the crank and rod rated for.....

AlexBarabas

I don't think they "rate" them for anything -- it's more of a structural integrity thing that depends on how much stress the part has been under and how much force you can still put on it. I'd try to find someone that's damaged their rods/crank and see what kind of power/equipment they were running.

If you're looking at running 450rwhp+ and consistently running the car, have some extra rods handy for replacement.

95Bird

I go 7+ grand on a stock crank..but I wouldn't recommend it on anything else in there. Good rods/rod bolts are a must for a longer life at that rpm and everything needs to be ballanced. Also the lighter the better at that rpm.

AlexBarabas

Imagine a heavy watermelon jiggling at 7000 times per minute... wouldnt you want your watermelon to be nice and round -- also hollow/light -- or would you want a stock Wal Mart watermelon? What about those Japanese square watermelons? I've confused myself -- what were we talking about?

MyZb383

The stock bottom is not going to survive 500+ crank HP and 7,000 RPM for any length of time.

Somewhere between a minimum of 90 seconds and max of just before this Halloween would be my guess.

And all of this completely disregards whether or not your LT1 mods would be making power at 7,000 RPM. It's likely that shifting at 7,000 RPM would hurt your ET more than help it, unless your cam and heads are serious. And if they are serious enough to make big power at 7K, you're making enough HP that we're back to trashing your stock rods, bearings or pistons. The stock crank itself is stong enough to outlive whatever else breaks first.

bunker

I always spin to 7k RPM, have been for quite some time, Thank God my engine is doing fine, I change the oil as often as I change cams though & I'm constentaly redoing my valve train cuz I get bored & constentally wanting to change something after 500 miles like OIL, cam, heads, headers, etc...

So maintenance free 7k RPM I dunno I guess no probs, I wouldn't know cuz my valve springs have been changed countless times cuz the heads were changed, cams changed, lifters aswell.


As for stock bottom end, well it sees new sythetic oil every 1-2k miles on average so maybe thats why it still lasts.

Bottom line is, I would think if you keep her maintained you shoulnd't have to worry, I made over 400rwhp with my GM847 cam spun to 7k all the time, I now have a bigger Joe Overton cam that I haven't dynoed yet but I spin her to 7k rpm aswell.