Here's the cars history....

-1994 Camaro Z/28
-130,000 miles
-Rebuilt A4 4L60E tranny
-Bypassed security system
-Replaced fuel pump
-Replaced starter


Here's the cars previous problems:

-fuel pump went out
-Used to overheat due to hole in coolant resevoir tank
-tranny needed to be rebuilt
-security system kept jamming my lock cylinder so it has been bypassed

And finally the problem that I need help with ASAP!!!!!!!

You'd figure since I replaced the starter, it would start up right away? It takes a few cranks when its cold, and bam no problem. I'll be driving it for a while, and I'll notice my idle getting lower and lower from 1,000 to about 600. Then once I turn it off, go to school, gym etc, it takes longer to start each time.

When I'm driving it long enough, once the temp reaches about the normal mid range operating temp, the engine stalls somewhat, turns off, then powers on almost immediately. The service engine soon light comes on, and the fans kick on, usually keeping it at a normal temp.

But as I continue to drive it with the fans and service engine on, it will start to miss around 3500-4000 rpm's. Little by little, the miss will get worse and lower in the rpm's.

By this time, the miss will be horrible and between the 1800-3000 rpm range, which makes it nearly impossible to drive it anywhere.

And today, in traffic, the miss got so bad my car just shut off and didn't turn back on. It wouldn't start, wouldn't jump start, and all it did was kill the battery and result in it getting towed.


Any help will be great!

I listed everything to the best of my knowledge, I'm in serious need!

Btw, I'm 18 years old, so I'm new to the whole mechanic lifestyle, so I need good advice from experienced people

Thanks

NEW INFO:

Cut off cat, fixed exhaust leak. Is it for sure the distributor? A friend of mine got me the entire thing, cap rotor etc, should i go ahead and replace it or should i take another approach?

 

I also forgot to mention, when my cat is cold it makes a rattle sound while its warming up, and I have a small exhaust leak from the driver side exhaust manifold, one of the three bolts broke so its held on by two of them. There might be a leak by the cat too, I'm not sure!

Like I said any help is great!

 

i'm no expert as this is only a hobby for me but if i were in that position i would try to get the code off the check engien light if possible......that would tell you at least the reason fo rthe code and maybe you could track it down from there

 

If the cat appears to be falling apart I would replace it right now. If its plugged you might fix most of your problems. I would also fix the exhaust leak. If you have factory exhaust manifolds and the front or rear bolt broke off you can get headers since they don't use those holes. If the bolt if sticking out some you might be able to use vice grips and back it off. You will need to remove the manifold to get to it. I would soak it with some penetrating lube to help break it loose. The engine code can be checked at most auto parts stores.

 

You know how the exhaust manifold connects to the stock y pipe right by the steering thing with a three bolt triangle with a flange? The one nearest to the firewall is the one that broke, so do you think one of my sensors is sending a bad code to the computer because of the leak?

 

Today the car started just fine but I'm too nervous about it dying out on me again

 

the mentioned advice is the correct way to address this problem. When there is a E manifold leak, it lets air into the exhaust system, this effects the O2 sensors readings. It will make the engine run rich. the cat has to be replaced as it seems that it has collapsed internally, restricting the exhaust flow.

 

Can I just drop out the cat and run a pipe straight through? I don't have to pass emissions over here, and I noticed once my engine turns the fan on, it does burn gas a lot faster so maybe it is running rich

 

I'm replacing the cat today to make it a "cat back", but the shop that is doing this for me says its my optispark distributor that needs to be replaced.

Is it true or do you think they're just bleeding me dry for money cuz I'm a young kid?

 

So I got my car back today, and the check engine light came on again. Awesome right? Fans kicked on, same ol' stuff again. Does the fan kick on when your distributor is messed up? It doesn't make much sense to me. Someone help!

 

TTT seriously i need help asap!!!! Moderators or someone!

 

sounds like the car is going into limp mode, which automatically cuts the fans on and goes into a default tune that dumps all sorts of fuel into the motor, which would be why your smelling so much gas. have you had the codes scanned yet? until you do that its a crap shoot to guess what it could be

 

Sounds like a fuel pump or ICM.
Have you put a fuel pressure gauge to see what the fuel pressure is when it dies or surges? They cost 40$ at advanced.

 

i have a 96 chevy 1500 with a 94 Z28 LT1 in it and a turbo350 tranny/w shift kit and performance clutches. the motor will studder around 2500 rpms when taking off in drive and through all gears. but if i shift manual the motor runs much better with a little studder still. the motor will never get over 175 what could be the problem? oh and the detent cable is not hooked up.

 

At least 2 people already gave you the best possible advice. Scan the PCM for codes. If you aren't willing to do that, its going to take you a lot longer to find the problem.

There's nothing a "Moderator" can do for you if you keep ignoring what people are telling you.

The driver's side O2 sensor is in the base of the exhaust manifold, right above the flange that is leaking. As ALREADY MENTIONED you have to fix that leak.

Again... all the help in the world won't do you any good if you don't want to follow up on the suggestions.