Fuel is 1-2 years old? Siphon it out and fill the tank anew. May have water in it. Also, I think the gauge in this year is suspect (1/4=0). Tank may be empty.

I assume you mean to "build" an OBD1 cable like in my topic about that and the software: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
Make a cable for about $15 or buy one for about $55. You can't get cheaper than free for the app.

 

You may be on to something...I HOPE!!! I went and got some clear hose, and planned on syphoning this 'old' gas out...and after numerous attempts, I couldn't hear any bubbles when blowing in the tank, my hose did not seem to be wet when I pulled it out, and I'm thinking the tank may be empty or near empty!


I started her up (she started right up...I didn't even touch the pedal)...and it ran for about 5 minutes and died.


One weird thing I noticed was that right before she died, the rpms went from like the 6 or 700 range to about 1100...then my service engine light went OFF...then she stalled out a few seconds later. I tried to restart, and nothing. So, I'm going to take my 3 cans to the gas station tomorrow and put 3 gallons of premium in, and see what happens.

 

I attempted 20+ times to syphon gas out...I blew, sucked, wiggled, and moved the hose every which way I could but got no fuel, didn't hear any bubbles when blowing, and when I took the hose out...it was never wet.


I started the car up afterward, and it ran for about 5 minutes and died. No warning...just like I had shut the key off, then of course...it would not start back up.


TODAY: I filled my cans up, and put 5 gallons of premium in. She started right up, as usual. Then, I ran her up and down the driveway but only made 3 passes (last time I did this it was 12+ passes), and she died...and wont start back up (bet she will in a couple hours though).


Winter is quickly approaching here. I am hoping to order some stuff this weekend to be able to use a scan utility. I already ordered an obd1-obd2 adapter to use a friends scanner...but not sure if that will work...


It's like I'm losing spark, or flooding out. I hope to test the ignition components and fuel components soon. I have a lot more reading to do first. I was just hoping someone could point me at something. A buddy of mine said it sounds like the IAC...but that's all I get are 'sound likes'.

 

At any point have you checked the fuel pressure? Has the fuel filter been changed, after running possibly contaminated fuel through it?

 

OK, now "sounds like" an issue with the coil or ICM. On the last video it seems to run ok for a while and then not start. The voltage is lower when cranking, maybe as low as 9 volts. That might be lower than the coil or ICM can perform to supply adequate spark when this happens. Even though you get shocked on it, it might not be enough in the combustion chamber. You would need to use a spark tester set to at least a .10" gap to check it (more gap for a no-pressure condition). They are real cheap.

 

I ordered a fuel pressure gauge and will be buying a spark tester soon. I'll post back with the results. I hit the schrader valve and gas sprayed out. I honestly didn't think of checking or changing the fuel filter, so that will be on my list as well. Thanks guys.

 

Ok. I just ordered the cables to make my cable for your program GaryDoug. I'm not going to do anything until I get the scan going. Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge.

 

I would check all plug wires to be sure you have proper fireing order and clean your mafs. Fresh gas wont hurt.

 

Ok, I finally got my cables in and did that. Pretty easy. I dl'd your program. Pretty nice...but I have a lot of familiarizing to do. Anyhow, I did 3 scans. The first was kind of accidental and testing, the second was a minute or so, and the third was kind of short...the car stalled out and wouldn't start back up. She was seeming to run real ****ty today. I did save the 3 log files. Not sure what to do with them.


I had 3 dlc codes: 15, 48, and 66.


Other than that, everything is Chinese to me, and I'm trying to learn. I did notice that my coolant temp was at -40...if that means anything?


Any leads would be greatly appreciated, while I try to figure this out...

 

BTW: It easier to drain the old fuel by removing the fuel filter and let the fuel pump run (KOEO), and draining into a pan. Or you can put hose onto the line from the tank, and run the hose into a gas can. Just keep an eye on it so it doesn't overrun the can.

It's also advisable to replace the filter after draining, as Fred pointed out.

 

Thanks for the tip. My major concern is these codes and scans that I have waited weeks to do and finally have but don't completely understand. Also GARYDOUG...when I open logs, the codes aren't there anymore...and the electrical faults section kind of confuses me. Do I click on elec. faults and then I will have a reading in the sub screen?

 

The DTC's wont show on playback, but they are shown in the scan log file at the ends of the lines. Don't bother with the electrical faults scan. It isn't much help for these failures. All the codes indicate electrical issues with the sensors or defective sensors. Much more likely a wiring problem. The engine temp at -40 usually indicates an open connection either to, or inside, the sensor.

Change the file extensions from .csv to .txt and attach them to your post....Never mind. I guess I was confusing this site with another one. Just post them as is.

 

Well, the code for the mass air flow may have been fixed because I recently fixed the plug-in wiring harness (broken wire)...a/c has been deleted, so not worried about that...I guess my biggest problem is the coolant sensor and the pcm reading -40. Here are my logs. Please let me know what you think...

 

The coolant temp sensor is extremely easy to diagnose. Shoebox has the info you need on his "how to" page on his website ( shbox.com ). Gary explained why the PCM is reading -40*F. It is an open circuit, either the wire or the sensor. A multi-meter, used correctly, will tell you where the problem is.

 

Yes, fix the temp sensor circuit first. Then find out why the IAC valve is maxed out and the rpm still isn't where the pcm wants it (too low). Might not be reset or maybe some blockage.

Were you moving the throttle as the engine rpm started to drop just before stopping?