94 LT1 running like a dog after plugs and wires
#1
94 LT1 running like a dog after plugs and wires
I put Taylor 8mm Spiro Pros and NGK TR55s on my 1994 M6 T/A the other day along with a new coil and now it's become a total dog now.
Brand new Taylor wires and NGK TR55s gapped at .052. What gives? It used to annihilate the tires stomping the gas in 1st and now it seems like all the low end torque has just disappeared. I swapped the old coil back in just to be sure and it runs the exact same. Waste of nearly $40 right there.
Where did I go wrong? The car's got much better throttle response now but under load it just gives up. The plug gap doesn't seem excessive - my friend's 93 ran awesome with plugs gapped at .055. It almost seems like it's pulling timing, so I thought maybe the knock sensor is picking up false knock and went over the wires again to make sure they weren't rattling against the motor or anything like that. The #6 wire was resting against the exhaust manifold but relocating it didn't make any difference. The wire doesn't even appear damaged - I thought it would have gotten cooked right there.
Any ideas or suggestions? Is it possible to rotate the Opti on its axis? Could I have possible tweaked its position while pulling the wires, throwing the timing off?
Brand new Taylor wires and NGK TR55s gapped at .052. What gives? It used to annihilate the tires stomping the gas in 1st and now it seems like all the low end torque has just disappeared. I swapped the old coil back in just to be sure and it runs the exact same. Waste of nearly $40 right there.
Where did I go wrong? The car's got much better throttle response now but under load it just gives up. The plug gap doesn't seem excessive - my friend's 93 ran awesome with plugs gapped at .055. It almost seems like it's pulling timing, so I thought maybe the knock sensor is picking up false knock and went over the wires again to make sure they weren't rattling against the motor or anything like that. The #6 wire was resting against the exhaust manifold but relocating it didn't make any difference. The wire doesn't even appear damaged - I thought it would have gotten cooked right there.
Any ideas or suggestions? Is it possible to rotate the Opti on its axis? Could I have possible tweaked its position while pulling the wires, throwing the timing off?
#2
What was the gap on the ones you took out???
You can't rotate the opti cap- you can misplace wires, though, but I think you would notice that immediately.
Other than that, some people hate NGKs and others swear by them...
You can't rotate the opti cap- you can misplace wires, though, but I think you would notice that immediately.
Other than that, some people hate NGKs and others swear by them...
#3
OK I just got back from another test drive. Went WOT for the first time since plugs and wires and it pulls a lot harder and smoother on the top end. Low end torque is still dismal. I used to have severe traction problems stomping the gas in 1st at 15 mph. Now I hear a little bit of scrubbing then it just hooks up and goes. I seriously doubt my tires suddenly got stickier while I was doing plugs and wires . It comes alive above 2500-3000 RPM but anywhere under it's still doggish .
What things should I be looking at? I have checked and double checked all my connections for the coil, plugs, coolant temp sensor, kock sensor, and 02s. I imagine if any of these connections were bad it would have set off the SES light. Still clueless ...
EDIT: Just checked the gap on the Delcos that came out. It's a whopping .060. Would that explain anything?
What things should I be looking at? I have checked and double checked all my connections for the coil, plugs, coolant temp sensor, kock sensor, and 02s. I imagine if any of these connections were bad it would have set off the SES light. Still clueless ...
EDIT: Just checked the gap on the Delcos that came out. It's a whopping .060. Would that explain anything?
Last edited by 88irocz28; 04-30-2004 at 09:07 PM.
#4
its not a very big diffference but most of our car plugs are supposed to be gapped at .50 al though some say .30......
recheck evrything that u did ...make sure everything is connected,..u could have forgot somthing lie a simple connection or a hose if u removed any..
recheck evrything that u did ...make sure everything is connected,..u could have forgot somthing lie a simple connection or a hose if u removed any..
#5
Well, I drove the car again today after regapping the plugs to .060 like the Delcos that came out of it. Didn't solve anything. Instead it brought back that annoying stumble the car had before doing the plugs and wires. I guess the ignition doesn't have the juice to jump a .060 gap. All the air and fuel rushing in puts the spark out and the car falls back on its face.
I'm gonna try a .045 gap tomorrow and see it that makes things better.
I'm gonna try a .045 gap tomorrow and see it that makes things better.
#6
nope the Lt1s opti spark is very week .....the larger gap is probably causing ur stumble.....u said it ran bad with a .52 gap ...well gapping it to .50(stock) prolly wont make a diff...a .45 might help
tell us what happens when u do it ..i would like to know....thanks
tell us what happens when u do it ..i would like to know....thanks
#7
I just had to gap stock wires and AC delco platinums to .052
I'm running an open ypipe right now, it'll be closed again on tuesday when I get time. i'll let you know how my car does.
Right now I feel like I have no torque but I'm sure its due to the ypipe
I'm running an open ypipe right now, it'll be closed again on tuesday when I get time. i'll let you know how my car does.
Right now I feel like I have no torque but I'm sure its due to the ypipe
#8
Originally posted by CamaroSS30thAnn
nope the Lt1s opti spark is very week .....the larger gap is probably causing ur stumble.....u said it ran bad with a .52 gap ...well gapping it to .50(stock) prolly wont make a diff...a .45 might help
tell us what happens when u do it ..i would like to know....thanks
nope the Lt1s opti spark is very week .....the larger gap is probably causing ur stumble.....u said it ran bad with a .52 gap ...well gapping it to .50(stock) prolly wont make a diff...a .45 might help
tell us what happens when u do it ..i would like to know....thanks
The car ran like complete crap with the NGKs gapped at .060. No change in low end power, just brought the stumble back and made it 10x worse.
Today I pulled the plugs out and regapped them at .044 (crappy feeler gauge has weird increments). The effects of excessive plug gap from the last experiment were already obvious. A thick layer of carbon completely covered all exposed surfaces of the plug. A sure sign of incomplete burn, which is exactly what I thought was happening. So I cleaned them up, regapped them to .044 and stuck them back in. Apparently the small plug gap is nearly as bad as excessive plug gap. It still stumbles but not as bad. The stumble not only occurs with too much go pedal in too high a gear but also with a quick blip off idle. In fact, the off-idle stumble is the most annoying thing ever.
I guess .052 is the magic number for my car. I plan to regap the plugs back to original specs tomorrow and leave it at that. I'm tempted to do what racers do to get more power from their plugs - grind the filament down so that it doesn't completely shroud the electrode. Has anybody tried this before? Is it worth messing with on LT1s?
#9
My cars running like *** now too
Ive only put about 50 miles on it since i did plugs/wires/headers/ypipe.. I'm running open ypipe still.. waiting on the guy to weld my testpipe onto catback.
Can running open ypipe cause the knock sensor to go off?
Before today it ran decently until I hit about 4600 rpm, then the power would just DROP it felt liKe I was spraying 100shot and then let off mid gear . It's always at the same RPM
Now today I floored it, ran the same, then I did it again to pull ahead of some car and it felt like it was stumbling all over itself and it barely got fast enough to merge infront of some old honda accord
I also heard 3 of the loudest backfires I've ever heard one after another
Ive only put about 50 miles on it since i did plugs/wires/headers/ypipe.. I'm running open ypipe still.. waiting on the guy to weld my testpipe onto catback.
Can running open ypipe cause the knock sensor to go off?
Before today it ran decently until I hit about 4600 rpm, then the power would just DROP it felt liKe I was spraying 100shot and then let off mid gear . It's always at the same RPM
Now today I floored it, ran the same, then I did it again to pull ahead of some car and it felt like it was stumbling all over itself and it barely got fast enough to merge infront of some old honda accord
I also heard 3 of the loudest backfires I've ever heard one after another
#11
I did in fact burn a little bit of a wire causing it to misfire when I was touching the header. It didnt make it to the wire though, I ziptied it down with the other wires onto some tube and it was fine for the past 70 miles.. I dont think its that, wouldnt I hear it misfiring (putt putting)
I actually just realized my freaking thermostat wire wasnt plugged back up. Hope that didnt ****up something.
I actually just realized my freaking thermostat wire wasnt plugged back up. Hope that didnt ****up something.
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