'94 Z-28 73k miles - Intake oil leak + oil fouled plug question?
03-06-2008, 04:29 PM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Purgatory... Also known as New Jersey.
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Well, I had a chance to talk to L.E. today.
Very nice guy, and very honest, too.
He doesn't think it's the valves leaking the oil. He feels (as I do) that the oil was getting in through the intake manifold gasket surface. The backside of all the valves look brand new, and the motor doesn't smoke on startup... all of which point to the valve guides and seals being just fine.
This is good news, as I really can't spend the additional $$ right now. So, for this year at least, it'll be a full-on bolt on motor. I'll be ordering LT1 edit and a cable, and a mail order tune to get it all working in sync.
So, list of mods:
Pacesetter full lengths, off road Y pipe, Magnaflow exhaust, Lingenfelter intake, and probably a Madz28 tune. Aside from the rest of the stuff in my sig.
Vaguely considering the LT4 spring swap and 1.6 rockers if I can get them cheap and fast.
Very nice guy, and very honest, too.
He doesn't think it's the valves leaking the oil. He feels (as I do) that the oil was getting in through the intake manifold gasket surface. The backside of all the valves look brand new, and the motor doesn't smoke on startup... all of which point to the valve guides and seals being just fine.
This is good news, as I really can't spend the additional $$ right now. So, for this year at least, it'll be a full-on bolt on motor. I'll be ordering LT1 edit and a cable, and a mail order tune to get it all working in sync.
So, list of mods:
Pacesetter full lengths, off road Y pipe, Magnaflow exhaust, Lingenfelter intake, and probably a Madz28 tune. Aside from the rest of the stuff in my sig.
Vaguely considering the LT4 spring swap and 1.6 rockers if I can get them cheap and fast.
03-06-2008, 07:57 PM
#49
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Purgatory... Also known as New Jersey.
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Yeah, the exhaust was pretty rusty and resonated inside a little too much. The state troopers didn't appreciate it, either.
The SLP intake is sitting in my closet. I have to get around to cleaning it up and selling it. I got a good package deal on the Magnaflow and Lingenfelter intake.
I have to look into what springs I'll swap in if I do it.
The SLP intake is sitting in my closet. I have to get around to cleaning it up and selling it. I got a good package deal on the Magnaflow and Lingenfelter intake.
I have to look into what springs I'll swap in if I do it.
03-07-2008, 01:17 PM
#50
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: usa
Posts: 1,025
Lmao! you got pulled over with that exhaust on there? Wow I never had a problem. I love jersey troopers they have built in decible levels in there ear's or some kinda special training that normal people do not have. to give a back round for you guys on here it was a 3in catback with a 18in bullet in the I pipe and a 14in over the axel and 2otl. For what I paid for that exhaust I was kinda pissed at the quailty of material he used on there. It was only 5yrs old and never had a winter on it.
03-07-2008, 03:36 PM
#51
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Location: Purgatory... Also known as New Jersey.
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I decided to stay out of the motor for now. I got in way deeper than I planned. Besides, I'd rather spend a little $$ on LT1 edit and a cable, then get a mail order tune.
The big build will probably be next winter; most likely a 383 and the appropriate supporting hardware. That makes spending money on the current motor kinda pointless.
The big build will probably be next winter; most likely a 383 and the appropriate supporting hardware. That makes spending money on the current motor kinda pointless.
03-12-2008, 11:00 PM
#52
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Purgatory... Also known as New Jersey.
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More progress today...
Well, I got some more stuff done today.
This is what I started with.
The cleaning is the worst. Takes forever. Bought a nifty little tool at Home Depot, though. It's like a blowoff tool, but has a hose to pickup and spray just about any fluid. I used it like a mini power-washer for rinsing everything off. Worked out great!
Next I cleaned off the water pump gasket and intake manifold surfaces. Used a razor blade and finger power. Then I chased all the bolt holes with a tap to clean out any sealer residue or dirt/rust, followed it up with a bit of brake cleaner and blew it dry. A lot of gunk came out of those holes; cleaning the threads makes all the difference in the world when it comes time to torque things down.
Finally it was time to bolt on the intake manifold.
First, I did what I've been doing for years when it comes to sealing up the ends of the intake manifold. I took some RTV (Ultra black) and using my finger, rubbed it into the block surfaces at the front and rear. Just a thin coat, but worked into the metal. This will do two things: it will ensure that your RTV seal is adhered well to the block, and it'll let you know if there's any oil left because the RTV won't stick. If the RTV won't stick, wipe it off and degrease those surfaces again. They have to be BONE DRY. Then I did the same thing to the front and rear of the intake manifold, for the same purposes. I laid the gaskets on the heads, then laid down the bead of RTV on the front and rear surfaces of the intake valley.
I had previously made some guide studs from two old 3/8 bolts I had in my spares bin. Using those, I set the intake straight down where it needed to go. A few thumps on the top of the intake got it settled in the center of the valley. I coated the threads of the bolts with Permatex non-hardening sealer, and brushed a thin coat of oil under the heads of the bolts. I tightened them all in the proper sequence to 72 inch-pounds, then 15 foot pounds, followed by 25 foot pounds, and finished up with 35 foot pounds. I know that's an extra step compared with the factory method, but I'd rather take the time now, ensure that the manifold is seated all the way down and flat. I do *not* want to pull this thing off again!
Since I still have a bunch of stuff to install, the RTV will have plenty of time to cure.
Next I lined up the Opti. After lining up the splines it dropped in cleanly, all the way against the timing cover. Tightened it down with some blue locktite on the bolts.
Next is the water pump housing. First I high-tacked the gaskets to the pump housing, then I used hylomar on the gaskets where they would rest on the block. Hylomar works well to seal paper gaskets, and it's a lot easier to clean off if you need to pull the water pump in the future.
The housing is empty because I'm going to an electric pump; I have a brand new Meziere just waiting to be bolted in.
I couldn't install the damper just yet; I painted it and it wasn't dry.
The smog pump is AWOL, along with the non-functional EGR valve. The vacuum diaphragm was broken. Since I had the intake off anyhow, I installed an EGR block-off plate and called it a day. The Pacesetters don't have emission hookups anyway.
I think that's enough fun for one night; I'll see what I can get done tomorrow. I think the headers are going in next.
This is what I started with.
The cleaning is the worst. Takes forever. Bought a nifty little tool at Home Depot, though. It's like a blowoff tool, but has a hose to pickup and spray just about any fluid. I used it like a mini power-washer for rinsing everything off. Worked out great!
Next I cleaned off the water pump gasket and intake manifold surfaces. Used a razor blade and finger power. Then I chased all the bolt holes with a tap to clean out any sealer residue or dirt/rust, followed it up with a bit of brake cleaner and blew it dry. A lot of gunk came out of those holes; cleaning the threads makes all the difference in the world when it comes time to torque things down.
Finally it was time to bolt on the intake manifold.
First, I did what I've been doing for years when it comes to sealing up the ends of the intake manifold. I took some RTV (Ultra black) and using my finger, rubbed it into the block surfaces at the front and rear. Just a thin coat, but worked into the metal. This will do two things: it will ensure that your RTV seal is adhered well to the block, and it'll let you know if there's any oil left because the RTV won't stick. If the RTV won't stick, wipe it off and degrease those surfaces again. They have to be BONE DRY. Then I did the same thing to the front and rear of the intake manifold, for the same purposes. I laid the gaskets on the heads, then laid down the bead of RTV on the front and rear surfaces of the intake valley.
I had previously made some guide studs from two old 3/8 bolts I had in my spares bin. Using those, I set the intake straight down where it needed to go. A few thumps on the top of the intake got it settled in the center of the valley. I coated the threads of the bolts with Permatex non-hardening sealer, and brushed a thin coat of oil under the heads of the bolts. I tightened them all in the proper sequence to 72 inch-pounds, then 15 foot pounds, followed by 25 foot pounds, and finished up with 35 foot pounds. I know that's an extra step compared with the factory method, but I'd rather take the time now, ensure that the manifold is seated all the way down and flat. I do *not* want to pull this thing off again!
Since I still have a bunch of stuff to install, the RTV will have plenty of time to cure.
Next I lined up the Opti. After lining up the splines it dropped in cleanly, all the way against the timing cover. Tightened it down with some blue locktite on the bolts.
Next is the water pump housing. First I high-tacked the gaskets to the pump housing, then I used hylomar on the gaskets where they would rest on the block. Hylomar works well to seal paper gaskets, and it's a lot easier to clean off if you need to pull the water pump in the future.
The housing is empty because I'm going to an electric pump; I have a brand new Meziere just waiting to be bolted in.
I couldn't install the damper just yet; I painted it and it wasn't dry.
The smog pump is AWOL, along with the non-functional EGR valve. The vacuum diaphragm was broken. Since I had the intake off anyhow, I installed an EGR block-off plate and called it a day. The Pacesetters don't have emission hookups anyway.
I think that's enough fun for one night; I'll see what I can get done tomorrow. I think the headers are going in next.
03-12-2008, 11:51 PM
#53
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 3,144
You should be able to get a spark plug socket on that plug if you remove the rubber grommet inside the socket and be able to tighten/loosen w/ an open end wrench via plug socket. As long as the plugs and boots are not touching the headers you'll be fine.
03-13-2008, 09:24 AM
#56
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,916
After all that, you know you might as well just pull the engine and stroke it 
That is a ton of work, I feel your pain with one thing leading to another, however you will love it in the end.
Second note, don't complain about 14mpg, that about double what I get >.>
That is a ton of work, I feel your pain with one thing leading to another, however you will love it in the end.
Second note, don't complain about 14mpg, that about double what I get >.>
03-13-2008, 12:00 PM
#57
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Purgatory... Also known as New Jersey.
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BTC, I scrubbed the hell out of the stock manifold, and gave it a light coat of semi-gloss black engine paint. I think it turned out pretty nice.
Drew, quit being a bad influence. You sound like the little voice in my head saying, "You're only 34 bolts away from having the heads off... And a few dozen away from the timing cover... The cam will come out easy..."
I'm leaving the stock motor well enough alone until I get my shop built. Then I'm planning on a 383 setup with the appropriately ported heads and lumpy cam.
Right now I'm working in a tiny 1 car garage that has my Camaro, my Harley and my toolbox crammed into it; there isn't much space left for work... But it beats being outside.
Drew, quit being a bad influence. You sound like the little voice in my head saying, "You're only 34 bolts away from having the heads off... And a few dozen away from the timing cover... The cam will come out easy..."
I'm leaving the stock motor well enough alone until I get my shop built. Then I'm planning on a 383 setup with the appropriately ported heads and lumpy cam.
Right now I'm working in a tiny 1 car garage that has my Camaro, my Harley and my toolbox crammed into it; there isn't much space left for work... But it beats being outside.
03-14-2008, 01:25 AM
#59
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,916
BTC, I scrubbed the hell out of the stock manifold, and gave it a light coat of semi-gloss black engine paint. I think it turned out pretty nice.
Drew, quit being a bad influence. You sound like the little voice in my head saying, "You're only 34 bolts away from having the heads off... And a few dozen away from the timing cover... The cam will come out easy..."
I'm leaving the stock motor well enough alone until I get my shop built. Then I'm planning on a 383 setup with the appropriately ported heads and lumpy cam.
Right now I'm working in a tiny 1 car garage that has my Camaro, my Harley and my toolbox crammed into it; there isn't much space left for work... But it beats being outside.
Drew, quit being a bad influence. You sound like the little voice in my head saying, "You're only 34 bolts away from having the heads off... And a few dozen away from the timing cover... The cam will come out easy..."
I'm leaving the stock motor well enough alone until I get my shop built. Then I'm planning on a 383 setup with the appropriately ported heads and lumpy cam.
Right now I'm working in a tiny 1 car garage that has my Camaro, my Harley and my toolbox crammed into it; there isn't much space left for work... But it beats being outside.
... its only 3 bolts to pull the whole thing
... with as much as you have apart, the cam is only ~300 bucks, you could swing the rest of it for a while.
