1995 z28. after sitting through a rain storm the car was difficult to start, seemed to be the neutral safety switch. got it started, and drove fine for 30 miles, then suddenly died. after some time, it started and was fine till i shut it off. after that, it would turn over, but not fire, unless, i banged on the fuel filter (changing it made no difference)several times, or turn the key on, listen for fuel pump, turn off, repeat 5 times. my stepson changed the distributor,and started it 3 times with no problem. the fourth time, turn the key, and nothing happens. I have no power at one side of under hood fuse block fuses #12 cruise,# 11 ignition, #10 injector,# 9 injector. also the inside car block,#12 defog/seats , #15 windows, #16 crank, #17 radio. #9 gages, #5 pcm ign, #13 ip dimmer. i have to remove the courtesy fuse (#8) to turn off inside lights. if i run a wire from any good fuse to the gages fuse, i can start the car by jumping across the starter, dies when wire removed. also, i can run a wire from the battery to any of the "dead" fuses under the hood, and start it with the key. this gives me power at #9 gages, #5 pcm ign inside the car. key will not shut car off, wire must be removed. I have tried checking fusible links, but, cant find anything obvious wrong though im not really equipped to do more than a visual inspection. sorry for the long version, i just think anything i leave out will be important to anyone who knows anything. now you know everything i do, any help would be greatly appreciated. im going crazy trying to get this thing going! I MISS MY CAMARO!!!

 

Did you check the fusible links with a multi-meter? Not sure what a "visual" would show you with regard to the condition.

 

Sounds like it could be the ignition switch or connection. Seems you are losing power to switched powers sources.

http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg

 

Let me start by saying THANK YOU!!! to shoebox. you saved the day! I used your step by step ignition switch replacement instructions, and it went perfectly! I will be making a donation! you gave me my Camaro back! That said, I have a few more minor problems. I still have to use a jumper wire to power the windows, and radio, also, I have to pull the fuse for the courtesy lights to shut them off. Do you have anymore ingenious insights for me? Thank you in advance, you da man!

 

The power windows and the radio are powered though the retained accessory power (RAP) module. Sounds like your module may be bad. Shoebox has a photo of the location.

And he has a schematic:

http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg

 

Sorry, I put the wrong link up in the other post. I must have had that other link in my copy/paste buffer.

It should have been this:

http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html

Fred already gave you the nudge to some RAP stuff on my site.

http://shbox.com/1/express_down1.jpg

 

Thank you both for all your help, I am a plumber, not a mechanic, but youve made this repair possible. the link i followed to your ignit. replacement was actually from a response to someone elses question from several years ago. I found the R A P mod. it wasn't hard, because it was hanging out, and uncovered (stepson must have took it apart when he was working on it) At least I think it was it. I dont know if its bad or not, I can tell you that the copper coils get pretty hot pretty quick. maybe theyre supposed to? i dont know, but you both seem to be experts, so I'm going to call napa in a minute to order one. you haven't steered me wrong yet! I just called napa, and they dont know what I'm talking about, is this something I need to go to the dealership for? or salvage? or is there a different name for it? or should i just deal with another supplier? (napa is all we have in town)

 

We're just lucky guessers........

 

lucky guessers or not, this car has been f..ed up since the 4th of july, and we got to go for a cruise last night! made my day. there are black marks east of town to prove how much fun we had. The only tjing missing is the speaker box that fills the "trunk" and the ability to use the windows. I'm sure ill fix that problem soon! thanks again

 

Not complaining, but you didnt answer my question. Where does one find a r.a.p. module?

 

Junk yard, dealer.

 

Dude I'm not too mechanically inclined but somewhat... what did you do to get your ignition injectiors and and that workin? When i i turn the key i just get a knock and rely cli k noise

 

This is a 12 year old thread, and “brentm” hasn’t signed into this site since 3 days after his last post above.

To get the help you need I would strongly suggest you start a new thread in the current LT1 Based Engine Tech forum (assuming you are asking about an LT1).

Provide complete details regarding your vehicle - year, model, trans type - and any significant engine or electrical modifications from stock.

Provide more details of your specific problem. Is the “SECURITY” light on? Does it have an SES light on? Does the fuel pump run for 2-seconds when you turn the key to “RUN”? Does the starter crank the engine? Where does the “knock” seem to originate? Is the battery in good condition? Do the instrument panel warning light come on for the 3-second bulb check? Is this a new problem or a long-term problem? Have you made any significant changes to the engine or electronics recently? Anything else beyond the very limited info in you above post.

The more info you provide, the better chance we have of being able to help you.

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