Thank you guys and rechecked the pintle length it is right on 28 mm possibly 28.5. What else could be causing high idle? Old pintle length was around 38 mm and causing a idle of 500 so should I set the new one to 33ish mm?

 

I’ve got the parts coming tomorrow to build the cable. Is it possible someone programmed it to have an idle of 1000? Using tuner rt or one of the tuning software’s how do I change the idle?

 

Anything is possible. But one of the columns in Scan9495 is the ‘target (= programmed) idle speed”. The log tells you what it is supposed to be, and the actual RPM. And it shows “RPM Variation %”.

 

Try removing your cruise control cable. This was my problem, it was holding the blades ever so slightly open. Now I am at near-normal idle.

 

I don’t believe I have cruise control. What does the cable look like?

and is this how the opti lines go? mine weren’t plugged up and if so what is the size of the hose going from metal barb to intake elbow? Mine has a gash in it from rubbing against the harmonic pulley
http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_harness.jpg

 

And resetting the iac doesn’t do anything at all
it should do something right?

 

If the pintle length is correct, the motor is brand new, and the circuit from the PCM to the IAC motor is good - something else is causing the high idle. If you connect Scan9495, the first thing you have to look at is the IAC counts. I would expect it to read “0” because it's not the device that is allowing too much air to enter the engine at idle. But that's just a guess. You need to run a data log for me to be of any further assistance.

As far as the cruise control, I think is was standard on the Z28. Look at the quadrant on the driver side of the throttle body. There is one cable that wraps partway around the quadrent, and that's the one from the accel pedal. If you have cruise control, there is a second cable attached to the quadrent. Does your car have traction control (also called ASR on the Camaro - RPO option NW9). That would complicate things further.

Earlier in post #17 I asked if the throttle blade assembly was closing against the throttle stop screw. You said “yes”. But then you indicated you have excessive gaps around the edges of the throttle blades. How did those gaps compare to the photos I posted?

 

I do have asr, and the motor is not new as far as I’m aware

but quick question what is the cheapest and absolute best fitting headers? I have an exhaust leak on my driver side manifold that goes away once warmed up. I found a pair of hooker super comp long tube headers a guy is selling for 150$ with a custom y tube they are rusted though. Would these suffice to get rid of the exhaust leak?

 

Is the asr why I have a weird cylinder looking thing above my driver side valve cover?

 

Yes… big black box. In that case, the throttle cable from the accel pedal, and the cruise control cable from an actuator on the driver side front subframe BOTH connect to the black box on the valve cover. The box has a servo motor that adjusts the traction control cable that is the only cable that attaches to the throttle body quadrant. As long as there are no traction issues, the servo only responds to the pedal and cruise control inputs. But once the ABS/TC system detects wheel slip, the servo is used to reduce the throttle opening.

Make sure the blades are always up against the stop screw when the engine is idling. Have you attempted to adjust the stop screw in the past?

 

No I have not but should I? If so how do I go about it, do I loosen the stop screw?

 

If you haven’t moved it previously, leave it alone. The important point here is are the throttle blades essentially CLOSED. when the engine is idling? That why I asked a long time ago, and why “It's Cochise” suggested to make sure a cable is not holding the blades open. That's one thing that can allow extra air into the engine during idle, causing the idle speed to be excessive.

 

Can you use 9495 to change the idle speed? Or do I need to use tuner rt?

 

You need a programmer. Scan9495 is only a scanner/actuator.

You can only change the “target” idle speed. If yours is currently stock the programmed “target” idle speed, fully warmed up engine, is 800 RPM. The PCM can’t magically make the engine idle at that RPM. The only thing it can do is use the IAC motor to control the RPM. If the IAC is new (the “motor” I was asking about in post #37) and is working, and it isn't lowering the RPM from 1,000 to 800, the IAC isn’t the problem. It means the engine is getting added air from some other source, generally a vacuum leak, blades sticking open, etc.

Back in post #19 you indicated:



The programmed idle speed for a manual transmission car only applies with the throttle closed, the gear in neutral, and the vehicle standing still. When the trans is in gear, and the clutch is not depressed, the vehicle speed is controlling the RPM. Once the vehicle is moving and RPM is increasing, the PCM starts opening up the IAC valve to provide air so the engine doesn’t stall when the throttle blades suddenly close.

When you are decelerating, the PCM cuts fuel off to prevent raw fuel from dumping into the cat. As the RPM comes down with no fuel, the RPM reaches a low enough point that the injectors are turned back on. If you pay attention, you can feel that happen, and the engine doesn't slow down as fast as it was with no fuel. That is not “idle” and the PCM does not try and control RPM. It only controls idle RPM when the throttle is fully closed (0% TPP) and the speedometer input is “0”.

 

I just got a log, I drove around for a sec and idled fully warm.

fans don’t turn on by themselves I have to use actuators to turn them on.

coming to stop sign and clutch in idle will go up to 1400 then drop back to 900

idle should be 800 but it bounces between 800 and 900