Adjusting RR's
02-12-2008, 10:24 AM
#1
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Adjusting RR's///Bad Idle
I just finished adjusting my roller rockers, I did it the way that is explained on shbox.com ( tightening the bolts by hand till they stop then an additional 1/4 turn and then tightening the center allen key) I have alot of chatter coming from the valve covers. Should I pull the valve covers and try to readjust with the motor running? I need some suggestions...Thanks
This is a 94 z28 complete rebuild with comp rr's, bigger cam, and everything else is pretty much stock replacement.
This is a 94 z28 complete rebuild with comp rr's, bigger cam, and everything else is pretty much stock replacement.
Last edited by asia517; 02-14-2008 at 10:04 AM.
02-12-2008, 10:54 AM
#2
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I just finished adjusting my roller rockers, I did it the way that is explained on shbox.com ( tightening the bolts by hand till they stop then an additional 1/4 turn and then tightening the center allen key) I have alot of chatter coming from the valve covers. Should I pull the valve covers and try to readjust with the motor running? I need some suggestions...Thanks
This is a 94 z28 complete rebuild with comp rr's, bigger cam, and everything else is pretty much stock replacement.
This is a 94 z28 complete rebuild with comp rr's, bigger cam, and everything else is pretty much stock replacement.
I had trouble when I first started adjusting valve lash, and went through all of the methods. Just find what works for you.
02-12-2008, 10:58 AM
#3
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I tried all the methods when i did mine, but could only get them right with the motor running. im sure its just personal preference cause all the methods must work, but with the motor running its really easy and quick. (maybe a little messy though)
02-12-2008, 03:49 PM
#6
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02-12-2008, 05:42 PM
#7
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Honestly, I can tell you that it can be pretty tough to get this on your own, the first time especially. I adjusted and readjusted mine quite a few times both with and without the engine running. I ended up just taking it to a performance shop where its sitting right now, getting the adjustments made. Maybe you can get it on your own, but I just couldn't seem to nail it, so I'm saving myself the time and hassle and just taking to the pros.
02-12-2008, 08:02 PM
#8
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Not trying to put anyone down, but if you take your time and follow the directions closely, its really not that difficult. I did engine off method when i swapped my heads, and it worked fine for me.
02-12-2008, 08:19 PM
#9
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I only use the engine off method. I can't understand how you can accurately preload each rocker with all the surrounding noise when the motor is running.
You can take your valve covers off and make sure there are no rubbing spots on the underside.
You can take your valve covers off and make sure there are no rubbing spots on the underside.
02-13-2008, 08:59 AM
#12
yeah it sounds harder than it is, i thought it would be difficult so i did engine off, that did not work so i tried with it running and it is night and day difference when you hit 0 preload, very easy to get it spot on. personally i would never do it any other way again
02-13-2008, 09:28 AM
#13
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You turned the rocker nut till it "stopped" then turned an additional quarter turn?
That ain't the right way to do it.
You turn the rocker nut by hand while holding the pushrod until you feel a bit of "drag".. ie you've taken out the slack b/w the pushrod and the lifter. Then you take your additional 1/4 turn if that is the pre-load you desire.
That ain't the right way to do it.
You turn the rocker nut by hand while holding the pushrod until you feel a bit of "drag".. ie you've taken out the slack b/w the pushrod and the lifter. Then you take your additional 1/4 turn if that is the pre-load you desire.
02-13-2008, 09:39 AM
#14
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You turned the rocker nut till it "stopped" then turned an additional quarter turn?
That ain't the right way to do it.
You turn the rocker nut by hand while holding the pushrod until you feel a bit of "drag".. ie you've taken out the slack b/w the pushrod and the lifter. Then you take your additional 1/4 turn if that is the pre-load you desire.
That ain't the right way to do it.
You turn the rocker nut by hand while holding the pushrod until you feel a bit of "drag".. ie you've taken out the slack b/w the pushrod and the lifter. Then you take your additional 1/4 turn if that is the pre-load you desire.
The key to this is knowing when you have slack out before you start to press the lifters plunger down at the other end of the pushrod. Just feel for any resistance by twisting pushrod and check slack by moving pushrod up and down slightly/gently.
If you mess up and feel you have gone too far down on the lifter just loosen everything up for a minute or two and start again.
When your tightening the poly locks by hand,they will stop and when they do your almost at 0 lash (this will put you close to where you need to be), but.......
I have found that it is imperative to have clean rocker stud threads along with clean poly lock threads to feel any resistance with accuracy.
These are things that helped me.
02-13-2008, 11:18 AM
#15
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Yeah what he said. It is basically getting slack out and then 1/4 turn.
The key to this is knowing when you have slack out before you start to press the lifters plunger down at the other end of the pushrod. Just feel for any resistance by twisting pushrod and check slack by moving pushrod up and down slightly/gently.
If you mess up and feel you have gone too far down on the lifter just loosen everything up for a minute or two and start again.
When your tightening the poly locks by hand,they will stop and when they do your almost at 0 lash (this will put you close to where you need to be), but.......
I have found that it is imperative to have clean rocker stud threads along with clean poly lock threads to feel any resistance with accuracy.
These are things that helped me.
The key to this is knowing when you have slack out before you start to press the lifters plunger down at the other end of the pushrod. Just feel for any resistance by twisting pushrod and check slack by moving pushrod up and down slightly/gently.
If you mess up and feel you have gone too far down on the lifter just loosen everything up for a minute or two and start again.
When your tightening the poly locks by hand,they will stop and when they do your almost at 0 lash (this will put you close to where you need to be), but.......
I have found that it is imperative to have clean rocker stud threads along with clean poly lock threads to feel any resistance with accuracy.
These are things that helped me.
yes I did it this way first with no luck then tried it the way that shbox says he does it which is tighten till the nut stops then pre-load. I will just try with the engine on and see from there.
BUT now I have an awesome problem out of no where the engine is now stalling out after about 30 sec running. it revs high at around 1500 then down to 1000 then 600 then stalls. WTF. gona check the fuel pressure first. Any suggestions???