Rob94hawk

What the above title says. From what I understand sollid rollers are good for engines that utilize the upper rpm ranges 6-8000. Is a solid roller setup pointless on the LT1 because the pcm doesn't read above 7000 rpm? Still looking for ideas.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Building a 7000 rpm LT1 is pointless unless you are going to race it, then it makes a lot of sense, and then you can get a better operating system if you have to - I have friends who used the stock PCM though and did OK. Hydraulic rollers are pretty good these days and there's pretty good cams for them. There's a bunch of guys here who did solid rollers - maybe they'll chime in on what they did for intakes, valve train, etc. RPMs are expensive and expect more maintenance with solids.

onefastmx5

advantages: higher rpm/ less valvetrain hp loss
disadvantages: more expensive/ frequent adjustments

basically- best for a race car.

hsyr

Great Q

I wouldn't mind hearing some more opinions. Is a solid roller good for a weekend car that would only see cruising and racing? (1/4 mile, and roll racing).

Also at what kind of mileage would a SR setup need to be serviced? Sorry to hijack the thread

I've searched this before just looking for fresh opinions

Injuneer

A solid roller is really for a high RPM "race" engine. I've got a solid roller, and its really not much more work that an hydraulic. Maybe check the valve adjustment once a year or at 6,000 miles. Drove the car for two years as a daily driver with no problems. Does eliminate the use of the knock sensor, because there is too much noise.

I wouldn't do it again with the exact setup I have. My peak HP NA is well below 7,000rpm, and even with the 300-shot, the nitrous cuts off at 7,000rpm. Redline is set at 7,400rpm. ECU is a MoTeC M48Pro, so RPM with the stock PCM is not an issue.

If you do it, you need top quality lifters for daily driving. I use the Crower Severe Duty Cutaway lifters.

But the sound of the valve train is enough to make it worthwhile