Heatmaker

Has anyone installed this kit with the heads previously installed on the car? what is required?

speed_demon24

I hope you like aluminum floating around in your engine.

Heatmaker

I repeat the question,


Has anyone installed a Hydra Rev kit with the Heads installed on the Motor?

rskrause

I repeat the skeptical response. But I will also try to help. Do you mean you need instructions? The last one I saw came with instructions, I am sure you can get a copy from AFR if you need it. I looked and didn't see it on their website though.

Rich

Heatmaker

I haven't recieved the kit yet as I've just layed the heads on the block. These will be shipped from AFR directly, so I do expect somewhat of a drawnout wait for them. However, after talking with AFR about the installation I'm interested in seeing what experiences people who installed them with the heads on the car have thought about the installation. When I called AFR today they said I would need an installation tool to install the kit if the heads are off the car. It would greatly affect my decision in proceeding in torqing down the heads, or waiting for the kit to arrive. If it only involves the difference of a few more minutes and a specialized tool I may choose to proceed in fully ataching my heads to my engine.

rskrause

If I recall correctly, if the heads are on a spring compressor is needed, and it's a PITA to compress the springs on the heads. So, I would leave them off. Not sure if some other tool is needed though.

Rich

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I have done it and I don't have any aluminum whatsoever in my engine. BUT, I deburred and dressed the springs and installed them with some moly lube where they touch the aluminum. I wanted to use some steel seats in there, but I just ran out of time to get the engine up. I was most worried aboout some aluminum contamination, but it was a non-issue. Just as a matter of course, I dress all springs and I never seem to have issues with them. Springs are nasty the way they come ground on the ends, and I would expect something has to wear if they are installed that way, rev kit, valves, whatever.

So, I can't remember why the hell I installed the rev kit after I did the heads, but it was a PITA to say the least. There is a special tool you can get, but I made my own tool out of a gate hinge and a bolt thru it to tighten it down and compress a spring. With Beehives and a rev kit, my engine seems happy to rev to the moon, but the truth is that I probably didn't need it. I put it in there because I had some unusual wear on my previous set of lifter wheels (but not the cam) and I wondered if I was losing control of the lifters.

speed_demon24

BTW theres no need for a hydra rev kit, thats what valve springs are for.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Did a hydra rev kit kill your baby sister or something? You've made 2 negative posts, neither of which are helpful to the guys original question.

SStrokerAce

FWIW, I'm not a fan of those and will not put them in a motor either. They can work, but I think they are more of a band-aid than what is really needed.

Bret

OneFlyn95z28

Nope but it did cost me a set of bearings in an engine with less then 600 miles on it

I installed the rev kit as a safety item. I have used many other kits in the past with no problems. When i recieved my kit from AFR i was sceptical of the way it worked and even called them about it. I was asured there had never been any problems with them and the springs would be fine. I was even told not to clean up the springs as they needed to be the way they were.

I later found out this was not true at all. the springs were eating the tops of my lifters and one had wedged in between the lifter and lifter plate. there was aluminum every where. I was VERY unhappy to say the least. nothing like tearing apart your new stroker LT1 that took years to build after running for a short time.

This has been the only real problem I have had with the new engine save for the whole opti issue.

I would NOT use this rev kit on any engine

As for the tool you are asking for? it is a simple door spring tool. you can find one at any parts store

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I liked the idea of controlling the lifter body to cam contact without extra pressure on the plunger, pushrod, and rest of the valve train that a stiffer spring makes. I don't think my beehives are lacking, but I am assisting them anyway. So I'm going to see if it works. If I find out in the future that it doesn't work or do anything positive, or that there are some wierd harmonics, or that it causes other problems I will make a thread about it. I realize they are controversial, too, but know some successful racers that use them. I learn by researching and doing things myself, but I do value the opinions of others when it is asked for.

MachinistOne

I use the high grade Isky kit in all our solid roller motors. Never have metal flakes and the plates do not wear.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I couldn't tell much from their website catalog. Do the high grade ones you use have steel plates? The more inexpensive ones looked like stamped steel? One of the builders on this site mentioned a while back that he would only use one if it had steel.

FASTFATBOY

Put the correct springs on the heads and you dont need a rev kit, it aint like you are turning the motor 8500 rpms, I had cam bearings fail at 1500 miles and I think the AFR hydra-rev helped it along.



David