after replacing parts, still missing/bogging/low idle
04-29-2008, 08:48 PM
#16
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You have to have the car scanned to read the codes on a OBD1 pcm.
havent replaced the icm yet...over the weekend i tried to see if any codes where being thrown by the "paper clip" method and strangly no codes but with the paper clip in the port, everytime i turned the key the fans would come on, this is with the car off...then i cranked it and ran better than it ever has for 10 mins or so then bogged itself back down...i swear this thing is possesed...
04-30-2008, 07:36 AM
#17
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...just the first one that has made be go insane..
04-30-2008, 01:28 PM
#18
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being that the cars runs fine for a while before it dies makes me not really think that it's fuel related, never hurts to rule it out though. It seems that whatever is going wrong is affected only after it's warmed up a bit. A bad icm is usually going to act up when it's warmed up. Since it's a 94 and I'm assuming that your coil and icm are both original it definitely wouldn't be a bad idea replacing them. I would also go over all of your spark plugs and wires and make sure everything's snug and connected good and in the right order
04-30-2008, 02:13 PM
#19
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well im gonna rule out the coil cause i bought a brand new MSD blaster coil and changed nothing, so i removed it and sold it...haha...as far as the plugs and wires i quadruple checked them when i installed the opti so i feel confident i can rule those out...a brand new ICM will be installed tonight and ill update you after that...
04-30-2008, 05:57 PM
#20
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replaced the ICM and still doing the same thing...im leaning more towards fuel now...after it warms up im getting constant backfiring in the air intake when reved...the regulator is another $40-50 and i want to know if its that or not before i spend a dime more...any other ideas???
05-01-2008, 12:43 AM
#21
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getting a backfire in th intake sounds more like an ignition/timing problem rather than fuel. I would honestly say that it not being the icm, I would be looking at a bad MAF. Try unplugging your MAF and run the car for as long as you normally would when you see problems and see if it affects it in any way. It's also possible that you have a short in the pigtail wiring on the MAF, look at the thread called clean you maf regularly, it might be of some help. and try going to this site http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...?showtopic=207
Last edited by 97sscamaross; 05-01-2008 at 12:45 AM.
05-01-2008, 07:53 PM
#23
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unplugged the sensor this evening and seemed to run the same or worse with no consistent idle and almost wanting to cut off...i pulled the maf off my 98 just to see if that would change it and it ran pretty much the same...
05-01-2008, 11:58 PM
#24
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is the car throwing any codes at this point? At this point the easiest thing to do would be to run an obd 1 scan tool on it while it's running and check it out. I'm really thinking that it's gotta be a sensor since the car runs fine just until it warms up since the pcm runs open loop off of pre-programmed information until the car goes closed loop and will then rely on information from sensors and sending units in order to run properly. But your car is going to crap once it goes closed loop so that's why I'm thinking it's some sensor. Ok, when you replaced the water pump did you also replace the enging coolant temperature sensor (ect) on the water pump?
05-02-2008, 05:33 AM
#25
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05-03-2008, 03:40 PM
#27
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i tried pushing the diaphram and makes the car almost die so i guess its working...also unplugged the sensor and really didnt change anything...i wish i could figure this out cause id like to start driving the car again...i cant believe no one else has had similar problems...
05-03-2008, 04:29 PM
#28
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hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how that is. I spoke with one of my friends last night and he was having similar problems on his ranger and it ended up being the fuel pressure regulater. do you have the whole intake assembly put together while you're running it too? Because I fired my car after I did the opti on it and just had the maf on the intake and it ran like **** until I put the rest of the assembly on.
05-03-2008, 05:05 PM
#29
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yeh entire assembly is on...but i did fire it up without the intake and seemed to run a little better but still with the rough idle, etc...im gonna try a fuel pressure gauge...whats the ideal pressure??
05-03-2008, 05:46 PM
#30
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I didn't wade thru all the responses, but it seems strange to me that this all occurred 250 miles AFTER plugs and O2 sensors.. I'd start there if I were you. Plug wire burnt, not on opti right? etc..
When I had similar symptoms it was my coil wire.
When I had similar symptoms it was my coil wire.