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i made cai myself, by changing parts of ebay cai a little. If I get the air filter under the bumper. iat is like 70F (currently 40-50F in my country) but ltft fluctuates between -10, -15. But if I leave the filter in the hood, it is right instead of the original.iat 110f, ltft -3, +3 fluctuates. which one is right? In addition, when it is put under the buffer, the engine does not start at the first start or turns off immediately. If I get it in the hood, it works on the first starter. (filter outside idle maf read8.5 g / s, 7.5 g / s inside the hood) thank you.
With air filter under bumper:
- ambient air temperature = 40 to 50-degF
- IAT indicates 70-degF
- LTFT indicates -10% (in what cells? There are 18 different LTFT cells)
With air filter in stock WS6 air box location:
- ambient air temperature = 40 to 50-degF
- IAT indicates 110-degF
- LTFT indicates -3% to +3% (in what cells? There are 18 different LTFT cells). Do you mean one bank is -3% and the other bank is +3%, ot do you mean the LTFT is moving over a range of -3% to +3%?
Is the IAT sensor still mounted in the stock location in the WS6 "ram air" box?? Or did you move it to the under bumper location?
With the CAI and the filter under the bumper, where it the MAF sensor located? Sounds like your CAI may be causing air to bypass the MAF.
Are these numbers taken with the vehicle stationary or driving?
Why would you assume a CAI with additional ducting and elbows, routed below the bumper, would be better than the factory WS6 setup? I'm feeding an 800 HP engine with the WS6 setup. Only change from stock is removing the air baffles behind the openings in the hood, opening up the air box cover to maximum area, and using the Fernco sewer pipe connector in place of the stock corrugated rubber connector.
With air filter under bumper:
- ambient air temperature = 40 to 50-degF
- IAT indicates 70-degF
- LTFT indicates -10% (in what cells? There are 18 different LTFT cells)
With air filter in stock WS6 air box location:
- ambient air temperature = 40 to 50-degF
- IAT indicates 110-degF
- LTFT indicates -3% to +3% (in what cells? There are 18 different LTFT cells). Do you mean one bank is -3% and the other bank is +3%, ot do you mean the LTFT is moving over a range of -3% to +3%?
Is the IAT sensor still mounted in the stock location in the WS6 "ram air" box?? Or did you move it to the under bumper location?
With the CAI and the filter under the bumper, where it the MAF sensor located? Sounds like your CAI may be causing air to bypass the MAF.
Are these numbers taken with the vehicle stationary or driving?
Why would you assume a CAI with additional ducting and elbows, routed below the bumper, would be better than the factory WS6 setup? I'm feeding an 800 HP engine with the WS6 setup. Only change from stock is removing the air baffles behind the openings in the hood, opening up the air box cover to maximum area, and using the Fernco sewer pipe connector in place of the stock corrugated rubber connector.
-ok correction. I found out later that my car was not ws6. I'll fix the signature.
-There is GM standard elbow in the car and ebay cai outlet ahead. The answer to the 2 questions is `` yes ''
-All data while idling and warm engine.
- I'm talking about ltft's. it moves -3 between +3
-I have no technology to look at the cell, but this data is during 30-33 kpa. -When cold, it stops at the first start, when the air filter is under the bumper, and the engine runs on the second attempt.
- in its standard place (insurance side) it works even if the cold first starter is difficult. (When you unplug the maf, there is no problem in the first starter. Maf is new,(old maf is borken) this problem occurred after the duralast, maf. Also, the car running and idling, accelerator pedal response is better as speed density.)
-I have a theory. The pipe after the maf is 3 '' but the maf is 3.5 '', if the pipe is narrow, it accelerates the air flow and the air is cold, can it cause too much air mass and command more gasoline or less gasoline?
If you don't have a WS6, how do you locate the air filter “in the hood”? Do you mean you have the factory air intake, that locates the air filter in a box right behind the radiator support/bulkhead, and pulls air from in front of bulkhead?
If you want help, you need to provide accurate info. I spent a lot of time trying to help based on having a WS6. It was wasted time.
Also, your answers to questions have to be honest. On the last thread you said you couldn’t remove the resistor bypassing the knock sensor, because someone else installed it. You also said you had reconnected the MAP sensor. But your buddy posted that was not correct, YOU installed the resistor and you DID NOT reconnect the MAP sensor, and continued to drive it that way.
I will make every effort to overcome the language barrier, but I can’t help you with inaccurate or incorrect information.
If you don't have a WS6, how do you locate the air filter “in the hood”? Do you mean you have the factory air intake, that locates the air filter in a box right behind the radiator support/bulkhead, and pulls air from in front of bulkhead?
If you want help, you need to provide accurate info. I spent a lot of time trying to help based on having a WS6. It was wasted time.
Also, your answers to questions have to be honest. On the last thread you said you couldn’t remove the resistor bypassing the knock sensor, because someone else installed it. You also said you had reconnected the MAP sensor. But your buddy posted that was not correct, YOU installed the resistor and you DID NOT reconnect the MAP sensor, and continued to drive it that way.
I will make every effort to overcome the language barrier, but I can’t help you with inaccurate or incorrect information.
this is my air filter system. the only difference is i have a gm elbow. the inside of the hood is the first picture sample. other picture sample under bumper.
The language problem is very difficult for me. I'm not like a silly person. but I guess the language problem seems ridiculous ...
- I definitely connected map, it was just a short try. my friend's news came later, when he wrote, I was tied up.
I'm not complaining about the language problem. I'm trying to work with you. I don't think you're silly. I teach classes on how to read complex construction drawings. They have limited technical training, some haven't graduated from high school, and a few barely speak English (lots of Spanish and Portuguese). I manage to communicate with them.
Is the IAT sensor in the stock GM rubber elbow?
The difference in IAT readings shows your CAI is doing it's job.... under the bumper provides cooler air than under the hood.
Was your MAF sensor hooked up and working when you took those measurements? If it's running in speed-density, the IAT input is very important to calculating the mass air flow. If (absolute) temperature changes, it affects the calculated density of the air, which changes the mass. The temperature reported by the IAC sensor changes as the engine runs longer, heats up the air under the hood, and the IAT sensor "heat soaks".
When I had a CAI with the filter behind the bumper, the IAT sensor would indicate as high as 140-degF on a really hot day, A/C running and engine running for a prolonged time at low speed or sitting still. I moved the sensor to the cap on the end of the air filter, and the IAT readings were the same as outside/ambient air. Since the engine was running on the MAF sensor, IAT became less important. But the false high temperature seemed to be affecting the ignition timing. My CAI had a plastic structure, which probably limited the air inside the tube picking up under hood heat, compared to the high heat conductivity f the metal tubes you show.
I'm not complaining about the language problem. I'm trying to work with you. I don't think you're silly. I teach classes on how to read complex construction drawings. They have limited technical training, some haven't graduated from high school, and a few barely speak English (lots of Spanish and Portuguese). I manage to communicate with them.
Is the IAT sensor in the stock GM rubber elbow?
The difference in IAT readings shows your CAI is doing it's job.... under the bumper provides cooler air than under the hood.
Was your MAF sensor hooked up and working when you took those measurements? If it's running in speed-density, the IAT input is very important to calculating the mass air flow. If (absolute) temperature changes, it affects the calculated density of the air, which changes the mass. The temperature reported by the IAC sensor changes as the engine runs longer, heats up the air under the hood, and the IAT sensor "heat soaks".
When I had a CAI with the filter behind the bumper, the IAT sensor would indicate as high as 140-degF on a really hot day, A/C running and engine running for a prolonged time at low speed or sitting still. I moved the sensor to the cap on the end of the air filter, and the IAT readings were the same as outside/ambient air. Since the engine was running on the MAF sensor, IAT became less important. But the false high temperature seemed to be affecting the ignition timing. My CAI had a plastic structure, which probably limited the air inside the tube picking up under hood heat, compared to the high heat conductivity f the metal tubes you show.
Is the IAT sensor in the stock GM rubber elbow? 'yes'
Was your MAF sensor hooked up and working when you took those measurements? 'yes'
The weather in my country got cold fast, and the first starter stops increased in the morning. I pay attention when iat readings are low and maf readings are high. The problem of not working at the first start is increasing. With this combination, ltft's like -10 in a hot engine (idle) but it becomes easier in warmer iat and low g / s maf readings cold first start. (filter inside the hood) but not possible. First start smoothly when you unplug the maf. (note: i did reset iac in trials)
01-19-2021, 08:56 AM
