LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Air pump fuse melted

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Old 07-21-2019 | 08:06 AM
  #16  
Injuneer's Avatar
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: Fuse melting

Generally a good idea to continue in the earlier thread, rather than start a new one, so people know all the facts. I'll merge this with the earlier thread.

As explained already, since you don’t have a catalytic converter, you have no need for the AIR system. But you do need a good fuse in the AIR pump relay circuit, to avoid the SES light and the code. You indicated you were looking to have it tuned. Just have AIR deleted and you don’t have to do anything else. If you want to repair the circuit anyway, easiest thing to do would be to complete the circuit by jumpering an in-line fuse to the correct wires under the fuse block.

You can download a free copy of the 1993 factory service manual, which includes all the wiring diagrams.

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

Last edited by Injuneer; 07-21-2019 at 08:16 AM.
Old 07-21-2019 | 08:12 AM
  #17  
Logan Jones's Avatar
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Re: Fuse melting

Originally Posted by Injuneer
Generally a good idea to continue in the earlier thread, rather than start a new one, so people know all the facts. I'll merge this with the earlier thread.

As explained already, since you don’t have a catalytic converter, you have no need for the AIR system. But you do need a good fuse in the AIR pump relay circuit, to avoid the SES light and the code. You indicated you were looking to have it tuned. Just have AIR deleted and you don’t have to do anything lse. If you want to repair the circuit anyway, easiest thing to do would be to complete the circuit by jumpering an in-line fuse to the correct wires under the fuse block.

You can download a free copy of the 1993 factory service manual, which includes all the wiring diagrams.

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
It’s my daily so I just need it fixed until I order the tune which will probably be today. But will not running a fuse In it as is cause any issue with how it runs. The light doesn’t bother me for now as long as it doesn’t affect the car. It looks like the wires and things you plug the fuse into look okay after getting some of the plastic out. So should I stick one in there anyways or bad idea?
Old 07-21-2019 | 08:45 AM
  #18  
Injuneer's Avatar
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: Air pump fuse melted

Repeating what was posted earlier, the electric AIR pump only runs for 2 or 3 minutes at engine startup. The pump injects air into the exhaust stream. That helps burn the excessive unburned hydrocarbons (HC) in the exhaust, resulting from the very rich A/F ratio used for cold start. Burning the HC reduces emissions, and helps the cat and O2 sensors heat up faster. The cat and O2 sensors have to get hot before they start to work. After 2 or 3 minutes, the AIR pump shuts off, and is not used or required.

Deleting the AIR system has no effect on the way the engine runs, except maybe taking a few extra seconds for the O2 sensors to heat up and allow the ECM to enter closed loop. You would never notice anything.

You indicated you are going to run headers. On a 93 with headers, particularly long tubes, it is recommended that you convert to “heated” O2 sensors. All other years left the factory with heated O2’s, 93 did not.

From Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/heatedsensor2.jpg
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