I just replaced all three seals in my timing cover.now I have an oil leak coming from above the crank snout. Oil that is. I removed the opti but it tough to tell which is leaking. Any advise. Seal looks good.but is looks what matters?

 

If you did not clean anything, the w/p seal looks dry with no oil trail under it, but the opti seal has oil under it. When the w/p seal leaks, it tends to leak quite a bit.

 

Fresh oil change makes it difficult to see leak. Also I didn't clean anything..thats how it looked when I pulled the opti.do I need to pull the crank snout to install the opti properly? Thanks again ..

 

No. You only needed to remove the damper/pulley from the crank hub. Loosen three bolts, if badly rusted may need a 3-jaw puller to separate the damper from the hub. Just bolt the pulley back on, the spacing of the arms only allows it to bolt on on way.

From Shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg

 

Also, the opti seal is a PTFE seal, so do not use oil on the opti hub when installing. It goes in dry.

 

I'd say the water pump seal. Looking at the pic..the seal is bowed out. It needs to be bowed in. Thats why they sell that little tool to put it on, while keeping the seal(rubber part) pointed in...

 

The lips of the w/p seal are supposed to point/face outward on both inside and outside.

 

What lips? Every one I bought has always been a single lip, and if it wasn't facing inward...it leaked.

 

That seal has an inner and an outer seal. The inner one should point towards the block. The outer (white or yellow) points towards the radiator. Installed incorrectly, the black seal can actually be seen poking out under the white seal and is the source of most wp leaks.

Op's seal appears to have been installed correctly, and its dry under it. When the wp seals leak, they usually turn into the Exxon Valdez.

 

I solved that water pump problem by going with an electric water pump and welding the water pump hole up. No leaks and no coolant leaks to take out the opti.