amp draw of LT1 starter
02-15-2010, 06:40 AM
#2
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Normally a starter is not behind any circuit breaker. It is directly connected to the battery, so it can get plenty of juice. When I just did a search about required starter amps, one random place said it can be up to 500 amps. Think of those CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) ratings they put on batteries.
02-15-2010, 07:22 AM
#4
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Agree with shoe.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
02-15-2010, 12:39 PM
#5
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Agree with shoe.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
Thanks for the advice. I think I will go without a CB.
02-15-2010, 01:12 PM
#6
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Location: VA
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Bad idea. Electrical fires in cars are neither fun nor cheap. BTGTTS...
A quick google search shows people using 100 and 140 A breakers for battery relocation, but mostly on smaller engines.
Another option google turned up is to add a starter relay in the trunk.
A quick google search shows people using 100 and 140 A breakers for battery relocation, but mostly on smaller engines.
Another option google turned up is to add a starter relay in the trunk.
02-15-2010, 03:14 PM
#7
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Another option then is to put 2 X 100 amp CB's in series and then have a 3rd prepared to wire up if that still is not enough. Man, wiring is a lot of work. Thank god I am at least trying to plan it out and develop a schematic first.
02-15-2010, 05:44 PM
#8
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Location: culleoka, tn. 38451
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just a question-why are you wanting to put circuit protection in a +12 feed to the starter? run a solenoid (think ford setup) and be happy with it. that setup has been a safe approach for a long time.
02-15-2010, 08:26 PM
#9
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I looked up solenoids but was wondering what kind of amp draw was needed to close the circuit. Would just a standard feed of 12 gauge wire carry enough juice to close that big solenoid?
02-17-2010, 05:39 AM
#10
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If you look at the LT1 from the factory, it has a small purple wire going to the control side(coil) of the solenoid. Probably around 16 or 18 gage. The other which provides the cranking power(contact side) from the battery is probably 4 gage or slightly larger. The farther you run the main power wire to the contacts, the larger the size it will have to be.
02-17-2010, 03:49 PM
#11
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yes a 12 ga wire will close the solenoid. you also have to jumper your factory gm starter from the 12v battery to the "s" (start) terminal on the original solenoid with a 12-10 gauge wire. that jumper is permanent when you run a ford type remote solenoid. you have to do this because the once constant 12 battery cable to the starter will only become energized when you close the new ford type solenoid. i do believe i am explaining what you already are aware of. run the old "s" wire to the new remote solenoid. you are in business.
06-12-2010, 10:26 PM
#13
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Just did a battery relocate that cost almost $1000. Anyone who says that you o not need circuit protection or that it is overkill is an idiot! I actually like my car, so I go overkill on everything, that is what hot rodding is about, not skimping to save time!
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
06-13-2010, 02:42 AM
#14
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06-13-2010, 08:09 AM
#15
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Just did a battery relocate that cost almost $1000. Anyone who says that you o not need circuit protection or that it is overkill is an idiot! I actually like my car, so I go overkill on everything, that is what hot rodding is about, not skimping to save time!
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
